Well I had a crap start to my day. I just received my 2017 R two days ago and spent this morning early washing and detailing it to perfection. The damn dealer had put a sticker on it with his name on the rear bumper and it looked tacky as hell. I had purchased one of those eraser wheels for my drill as I was led to believe this was the right tool for the job to remove the sticker without damaging the paint. Well it damaged the paint ! I am SO mad at myself. This is literally the ONLY imperfection now and I am the one that put it there! There are several burn spots within a 3 " area where the tool burnt through the paint. I don't think it can be touched up. I was wondering if anyone had had their rear bumper cover repainted and what it cost? My car is Italian Racing Red.

 

That sucks....On the re-painting, prices vary greatly over geographic areas. Challenge will be ensuring a good match. Depending on where it is on the bumper, a shop may be able to spot paint blend to the edges. Most likely it will need an R&R the cover (roughly 1-2 hours labor),..Or they may be able to do it in place, Prep for paint by scuffing etc., then they will to ensure the spot is smooth other paint. When they paint it, to ensure a good match, most good shops will blend into the adjacent panels so there is not a stark contrast.

To get it done right...assuming complete bumper pep and spray and blend adjacent panels...Base coat / clear coat and polish, it will likely be ~ $1500 - 2000. As I said, it can vary greatly based on labor rates, and Paint and material charges. Be careful of a very low estimate, as they may just spray the spot or panel and not blend or tint to match.

Also....next time, just use a hair dryer or heat gun on low....Warm it up, and they peel right off...take your time, and when done, apply liquid wax (any kind) and let the petroleum distillates soak for a bit, and all the adhesives will polish off.

Good luck!
DC

Edit: Did not see your picture before. The F-Type badge is going to have to come off and be replaced. It is possible, that damage could be spot painted and blended due to it being in a curved area....

 

I had the rear bumper of my XE resprayed a couple of years ago for $400 - looks perfect.

 

That dealer should be locked up. I've always had good luck using WD-40 for removing stickers. Just saturate the hell out of it and get a corner started, then peel slowly and keep spraying the back of the label..Good Luck. Should turn out great.

 

You should have just went onto the forum for some help first but we all have made mistakes, for anyone else removing badges just heat the badge with a heat gun or hairdryer, warm to the touch, then get a piece of dental floss between each had and slip behind the badge and use sawing motion underneath the badge to remove, if it breaks just use another bit or double it up, use WD40 or degreaser to remove, sometimes just a bit of heat again on the excess tape and it will push of, WD40 is great for cleaning the area.

 

My friend here in NJ paid $800 to refinish a blemish in his '15s rear IRR bumper. Looked as if it had contacted something sharp, caused a dime-sized dimple in the plastic. All good now.

 

The plastic bumpers can usually be repaired by one of the "Bumpertech" style outlets (mobile bumper repairs) for less than $200, and a lot of the time they come to you. That looks like a $200 job to me, I am quite familiar with that kind of repair as I have two daughters who for the first few years of driving seemed intent on keeping our local bumper guy in business, and my mum was also on a first name basis with them due to difficulties judging distances on her Toyota 86.

For getting rid of stickers, just use cooking oil.

 

We had a mobile service spray our old XJ8 bumper when we lived in Hawaii. It cost about $250 and turned out great. They also did the mirror covers. Garage opening was quite narrow and my wife wasn't the best with depth perception on that big old XJ.

 

Ah, ladies. They can squeeze 38" hips into a 36" dress but can't get a 4 foot wide car through a 6 foot gap!

 

Exactly! And I freely type this because I know she'll never see it.

 

Hi sorry to hear about the Mishap. In future ask the dealer to remove the sticker most will remove them or in some states they are required if it is requested.

I am not totally sold on the mobile repair for a repair like what is required. Also what paint option do you have is it one of the optional paints?

The nose and rear bumpers being plastic require a flex additive to the primer for the paint to adhere to the cars long term and over time hold up.
Also the required curing of modern finishes required a baking process at around 180 F to cure properly. my gues is the logo will need to be removed.

Best to get multiple quotes from many shops ask them to explain in detail how they will do the repair.

Proper process should be remove bumper prep for prime,paint and clear in order to do the job correctly. They can blend
the paint but will need to re-clear the whole bumper to get it to match the gloss and texture of the finish.
First place to call is the local dealer to see who they use for their body and paint. They will know exactly how to do this
type of repair. Then if you feel they are to high start driving around to shops that look like they do quality work.

or another thing is go to some car shows or cruise nights and ask around for a good shop. These people
know their cars and and are crazy about details. be truthful and they will probably steer you in a good direction.

Don't beat yourself up over it **** happens in the car world. We all learn from mistakes.

 

For anyone else who eventually needs to remove a dealer or other sticker, go to your local hardware or automotive store and pick up some Goo Gone:

https://googone.com/automotive-adhesive-remover

 

I always tell the dealers it's another $1k off the price for advertising if they leave the sticker or license plate bracket on. They've always just removed them.

 

If you end up with a full bumper repaint ask them if they will accept cash for a discount. I got a primed G37S bumper, grill, and lip spoiler painted for $400 ($450 without cash). It's held up great and the color match was decent.

 

I noticed your in Ct, I know of a good shop in Ma that can quote the Job. One other thing to consider is, I know this has been touched on this forum.
Paint shades take differently to plastics then metals even straight from the factory there can and often is a slight color match.
Best way to tell is in direct sun light or under florescent lights. These lights will show color mismatches.

 

I have a bit of a update: I have been to FOUR different body shops to get estimates.
Quote #1 $300
Quote #2 $800
Quote #3 $1000
Quote #4 $1500

All for THE SAME REPAIR!!! (All said they would remove the bumper).

The other thing I learned was that the erase wheel WAS the right tool for the job EXCEPT you CANNOT USE IT ON PLASTIC ITEMS LIKE BUMPER COVERS! No one told me that....

 

One thing to note, is I can assure you that all four of those are likely saying they are fixing the same damage, but they will not do it the same way. Pretty straight forward to calculate repair costs, and no magic. There is mechanical labor rate at however many hours it should take, body repair rate at however long the repair takes, painting rate - same, and paint and materials (usually some factor of the above...e.g. some $ amount times labor time).

Not suggesting all shops are honest (or dishonest), or that you cannot get the best deal...Just pointing out that $300 would not get you much time/opportunity for a repair. Price some paint, hardener, flex agent, catalyst, clear, etc..

Point is perhaps just ask exactly what they will each do for the repair? Where you can see a difference in repairs is "what" labor they will do, what type of materials, and what their hourly rate is....That should all be on your estimates.

Best of luck to you.

DC

 

I respectfully disagree. Definitely not for any painted surface whether plastic, steel, fiberglass, or aluminum. The only place I would use that erase wheel is if it was on a surface I didn't care about, or one that was being completely refinished. Maybe like an old Jeep bumper.

 

Yes labor rates in the Boston area good shops are at about $85 an hour. If its a solid color with no metallic it would be harder to blend.
My guess is the would do a complete repaint and clear after the repair. 95% labor.

Since quotes vary look at the inside of the shop and office to see how organised it is. Ask to see some repaired cars they have completed.
Are any of these shops the shop the local jag dealer use?
If it sounds to good to be true it probably is!

 

I agree with you....not the right product.

Hair dryer or heat gun on lowest setting 8-10" away until corner can be lifted and pulled off.
If you use a heat gun be very careful and check paint temp often.
Adhesive remover with no solvents and compound and wax to remove any ghosting.
That's what my friend who details cars suggests.