Performance Clutch/Flywheel Anyone?
#41
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I was the first clutch that slipped dangerously, and now am at 35K mileage on the 2nd (or possibly 3rd, but truly don't think so), and I am sure I will pick up my car from brake service and they will say I need to do the clutch soon. If they even looked lol.
I am like Sin... a non committal maybe, but I am interested enough to want updates. =) I doubt my need of a new one will coincide with this project's completion.
I am like Sin... a non committal maybe, but I am interested enough to want updates. =) I doubt my need of a new one will coincide with this project's completion.
#42
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The upgraded clutch will be available by the end of next week. The flywheel another 2 weeks thereafter. I have no intention of installing either of these before the just installed gen 4 clutch burns up. So if anyone wants to be the guinea pig on this, just let me know. Of course, if you can get a new clutch under warranty, that's the direction you should go.
#43
#44
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The flywheel will allow for faster engine spool-up and spool-down, so will allow faster shifting. All theoretical at this point, but will be an interesting experiment.
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SinF (02-01-2018)
#45
#46
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What about driveline shock dampening? Any thoughts/progress on this? I think faster spool translates to higher torque spikes, existing stock system already ripped gearbox and LSD on my car over maybe 20 hours of track time.
#47
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The gen 4 clutch feels a bit strange. The toggle point is relatively close to the floor, but the point of engagement is higher on the pedal. Those two points usually coincide. At the point of toggle, it requires a typical amount of pedal pressure, but elsewhere in the throw feels a bit wimpy.
#48
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The faster spool won't necessarily increase the shock loading on the drivetrain as it is offset by the lower inertial mass. The real impact (both meanings implied) will come from eliminating the dual-mass spring loaded flywheel. The dual mass flywheel was introduced to reduce drivetrain damage and engine stalling among a population that rarely drives manual transmissions anymore. Properly used, the clutch pedal is all that should be needed to avoid drivetrain damage. Shock to the driveline is also likely to loose traction at the tires. Gotta be smooth!
#49
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This is unreasonable ask. The set of people who could drive manual to this level everywhere, every time, and the set of people who could afford an F-type is tiny to non-existent.
#50
#51
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Ok. Have some background info to offer:
1st clutch (gen 1 clutch, gen 1 flywheel): Pressure plate exploded after 800 miles. Flywheel, clutchkit and throw-out cylinder all needed replacing.
2nd clutch (gen 1 clutch, gen 1 flywheel): Slipping from day 1. They finally agreed to replace under a TSB 7000 miles later. Again all 3 components replaced.
3rd clutch (gen 2 clutch, gen 2 flywheel): At 14,000 miles on new clutch, shifting into all gears becomes difficult when engine is running. Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all burnt to a crisp. down to rivets on both sides of the clutch disc. Throw-out cylinder also to be replaced.
This is ridiculous. I have not been abusing this clutch and have pushed other cars much harder. I have never gotten less than 40k miles out of a clutch before, even when towing.
4th clutch: Jaguar Customer Service is claiming at this point, that the clutch is an ordinary wear item but is considering some kind of "financial assistance". The design and production of a high performance clutch and 2 piece lightened flywheel is underway, but the timing will require me to have the gen 4 clutch, gen 2 flywheel installed before the re-engineered parts are available.
5th clutch: The HiPerf parts will be tested as soon as clutch 4 fails (and we know it will).
1st clutch (gen 1 clutch, gen 1 flywheel): Pressure plate exploded after 800 miles. Flywheel, clutchkit and throw-out cylinder all needed replacing.
2nd clutch (gen 1 clutch, gen 1 flywheel): Slipping from day 1. They finally agreed to replace under a TSB 7000 miles later. Again all 3 components replaced.
3rd clutch (gen 2 clutch, gen 2 flywheel): At 14,000 miles on new clutch, shifting into all gears becomes difficult when engine is running. Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all burnt to a crisp. down to rivets on both sides of the clutch disc. Throw-out cylinder also to be replaced.
This is ridiculous. I have not been abusing this clutch and have pushed other cars much harder. I have never gotten less than 40k miles out of a clutch before, even when towing.
4th clutch: Jaguar Customer Service is claiming at this point, that the clutch is an ordinary wear item but is considering some kind of "financial assistance". The design and production of a high performance clutch and 2 piece lightened flywheel is underway, but the timing will require me to have the gen 4 clutch, gen 2 flywheel installed before the re-engineered parts are available.
5th clutch: The HiPerf parts will be tested as soon as clutch 4 fails (and we know it will).
Haven't stopped by here in at least a year now, but just dropped in to see if any of my old buds were around, and it's nice to see a number of familiar screen names still here.
Wow on the clutch thing, and the reason I got out of the F-Type is because I couldn't love paddle-shifting no matter how hard I tried. That coupled with the MT problems sealed the deal, and sent me running to a C7 M7 convertible.
It's very sad it's still an issue. I've not heard of a single clutch failure on the M7 in the nearly two years I've been on Corvette Forum. With auto rev match, it is hands-down the most satisfying manual I've ever driven, which is dozens over the years, and I just picked up a new '18 convertible because I had to have the new Sebring Orange.
Keep the good fight!
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#52
#53
#54
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#55
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It's crazy... not to derail the thread too much, but I actually saw the old clutch and they claim it was worn to hell, it's not worn hardly at all to my eye. Took some caliper measurements and pictures and let them have it back (they couldn't let me take it since it was a partial warranty replacement). Apparently the springs held in by a plastic bit (????) INSIDE the clutch came loose when the plastic bit broke. How is that NOT a warranty coverage item? How can they claim it was wear?? And even more mind-boggling, why are they using PLASTIC parts inside of a clutch?!?
/end rant
I'll be writing a letter to corporate about this for sure.
EDIT: Unhinged, if you happen to have spec measurements of what a new clutch should be as far as thickness, I'd love to hear it. Mine was 8.23 - 8.29mm throughout.
/end rant
I'll be writing a letter to corporate about this for sure.
EDIT: Unhinged, if you happen to have spec measurements of what a new clutch should be as far as thickness, I'd love to hear it. Mine was 8.23 - 8.29mm throughout.
Last edited by approx; 06-10-2018 at 12:58 AM.
#56
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's crazy... not to derail the thread too much, but I actually saw the old clutch and they claim it was worn to hell, it's not worn hardly at all to my eye. Took some caliper measurements and pictures and let them have it back (they couldn't let me take it since it was a partial warranty replacement). Apparently the springs held in by a plastic bit (????) INSIDE the clutch came loose when the plastic bit broke. How is that NOT a warranty coverage item? How can they claim it was wear?? And even more mind-boggling, why are they using PLASTIC parts inside of a clutch?!?
/end rant
I'll be writing a letter to corporate about this for sure.
EDIT: Unhinged, if you happen to have spec measurements of what a new clutch should be as far as thickness, I'd love to hear it. Mine was 8.23 - 8.29mm throughout.
/end rant
I'll be writing a letter to corporate about this for sure.
EDIT: Unhinged, if you happen to have spec measurements of what a new clutch should be as far as thickness, I'd love to hear it. Mine was 8.23 - 8.29mm throughout.
#57
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Since I was at 22,000 miles When the last clutch failed, There was no reimbursement from Jag. (Previous two clutches we’re replaced under warranty). They also claimed excessive wear even though it was not slipping. It just wouldn’t fully disengage. Clearly the internal mechanism came apart as had the first failed clutch. This is why I am having someone else build a clutch for me.
#58
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This uprated clutch is now available if anyone needs a New clutch that won’t be covered under warranty. It’s of no use to me until the lightened flywheel has been completed. P.m. me and I’ll put you in touch with Spec clutch. They can have another one ready for me when the flywheel is done.
#59
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This uprated clutch is now available if anyone needs a New clutch that won’t be covered under warranty. It’s of no use to me until the lightened flywheel has been completed. P.m. me and I’ll put you in touch with Spec clutch. They can have another one ready for me when the flywheel is done.
#60
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This first clutch would be the first to be tested. Spec will offer a testing price on it to test it with the OEM flywheel. I should have that number today. Since my current clutch is still good, I have no interest in installing it before the lightened flywheel is ready to go in. If you are interested in providing the test sled, pm me and I'll put you in touch with Spec. I'll be providing the test sled for the lightened (billet) flywheel/clutch combo.