F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards
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  #81  
Old 11-15-2015, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Stohlen
If that is indeed the case, which its probably not since only one brand of supercharger is used on the F type, you should file/drill out the pulley and not ruin the supercharger shaft by filing it. It's an interference fit and that's then end of it, if the shaft size is different you should adjust the pulley to compensate.
We're not talking about the shaft needing filing, it's the SC housing around the shaft that has to fit within the confines of the pulley. The pulley is cantilevered back over the nose of the SC.
 
  #82  
Old 11-15-2015, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dwelter
I used two straight edges placed across the bottom and top of the pulley tracks. they were then lined up as parallel as possible and then measured at 65 mm. Yes, it was eye balled but it is extremely close to accurate.
Just to verify, let's try this another way. If the 2 OEM pulleys are identical, the outside diameter at the shoulders will be the same.
Dwelter, what is the outside diameter of the OEM pulley at the top of the rear shoulder (that measurement will allow you to lay the pulley flat on a ruler.)?
 
  #83  
Old 11-15-2015, 04:52 PM
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Measuring the lip of the pulley is 69 mm.
As Unhinged restated for me, it is the housing of the SC that was slightly filed not the shaft. The installer who specializes in JLR repair brought it to my attention and that necessity was confirmed by Jag Gill, owner of ETG.
The ease and safety filling of the SC housing certainly makes the most sense as compared to filling the ID of the performance pulley.
 
  #84  
Old 11-15-2015, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
We're not talking about the shaft needing filing, it's the SC housing around the shaft that has to fit within the confines of the pulley. The pulley is cantilevered back over the nose of the SC.
Phewwww that makes way more sense. My mistake for misunderstanding.
 
  #85  
Old 11-15-2015, 09:49 PM
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I'm not sure that these few milimeters have so much to do with the higher boost level seen on the 3.0L compared to the 5.0L, you also have to consider the ratio of the crank pulley to the supercharger pulley, so those few % are even less then.

The crankshaft pulley is the exact same part for the 5.0L and the 3.0L so nothing to see there.

The superchargers are different p/n's but to understand the differences we really need to get them side by side for a close examination.

Assuming that they both TVS R1900's (as everyone believes) then the increase in boost can probably be explained by the difference in engine capacity that they are bolted too. For example seen M112's crank out 25psi on a 2.0L engine, on our 4.2L engines they are out of breath at 15psi.

Now we have the pulley dimensions of the 3.0L/5.0L cars compared to the earlier models which had a 73mm stock upper pulley, and the aftermarket pulleys of 65mm (no grinding needed) or 54mm (need grinding) that's a much bigger difference than the few mm we are looking at on the 3.0L/5.0L.
 
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  #86  
Old 11-18-2015, 04:15 PM
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To the folks in this thread dealing with the inner workings of the ECU....

I'll assume the answer is, "yes", but...if I was to spray the car with a small shot / progressive shot, etc. would the ECU see the extra cold, dense oxygen and adjust the fuel accordingly? Or would need to tune around that, so to speak.
 
  #87  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:44 PM
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No, you need a wet system that sprays fuel in addition to the NOS, needs to be sprayed after the MAFs otherwise the ECU will react badly.

Not familiar with any 5.0L cars running NOS bit there are many 4.2L cars running 75-100 shots this way.
 
  #88  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cambo
Now we have the pulley dimensions of the 3.0L/5.0L cars compared to the earlier models which had a 73mm stock upper pulley, and the aftermarket pulleys of 65mm (no grinding needed) or 54mm (need grinding) that's a much bigger difference than the few mm we are looking at on the 3.0L/5.0L.
How much grinding was required for the 54 mm pulley, and where can one of those be found?
 
  #89  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
How much grinding was required for the 54 mm pulley, and where can one of those be found?
There's a good example here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pulley-86808/

The pulley's themselves, all of the usual places, Mina, Powerhouse, Eurotoys, etc. They often get referred to as a 3lb or 2.5lb pulley. But these are for 4.0 and 4.2 engines, I could not say if it would work with the 3.0 or 5.0...
 
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  #90  
Old 11-26-2015, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
How much grinding was required for the 54 mm pulley, and where can one of those be found?


I have installed quite a few pulleys on the 5.0 liter cars. What we have found is the casting are not nearly as smooth as the early 4.2 cars. I learned the hard way it is nessecary to measure the inside diameter of the pulley & then the snout to see where the rough spots are. You are really just smoothing out the casting, not grinding down the snout. The pulley alone with no tune only added about 10hp. From the seat of the pants it feels faster because you get boost sooner.
 
  #91  
Old 11-26-2015, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
The pulley alone with no tune only added about 10hp. From the seat of the pants it feels faster because you get boost sooner.
Area under the curve is much more important than peak numbers.
 
  #92  
Old 11-26-2015, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stohlen
Area under the curve is much more important than peak numbers.
That's a very good point, particularly with regard to street usage.
 
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  #93  
Old 11-26-2015, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
The pulley alone with no tune only added about 10hp. From the seat of the pants it feels faster because you get boost sooner.
This is pretty much it. Not a big gain in peak numbers, in effect you move the curve to the left (imagine looking at a dyno sheet).

The cars feel faster because they are accellerating faster, because the power comes on sooner.

If we equate this to the quarter mile, you lower your ET but the trap speed stays more or less the same.

What's interesting for me is that this is basically the same end result from this bloody RaceChip thing. No big change to the peak number but it moves the power/torque curve down the rev range.

So, this tells me that the same result can be acheived from software alone, is a pulley really necessary? Can we acheive the same result from a tune alone, no pulley? So far i'd say yes. My guy is working on the tune to get a definitive answer to this question.
 
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  #94  
Old 11-26-2015, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Stohlen
Area under the curve is much more important than peak numbers.
+1.
 
  #95  
Old 11-26-2015, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JgaXkr
I have installed quite a few pulleys on the 5.0 liter cars. What we have found is the casting are not nearly as smooth as the early 4.2 cars. I learned the hard way it is nessecary to measure the inside diameter of the pulley & then the snout to see where the rough spots are. You are really just smoothing out the casting, not grinding down the snout. The pulley alone with no tune only added about 10hp. From the seat of the pants it feels faster because you get boost sooner.
The reason I asked is that the 3.0 liter SC snout needs to be smoothed down just to fit a 60.5 mm pulley (62mm stock). There is no way a 54 mm pulley would fit without machining off about 3mm of material.

On the pulley, are you measuring the grooves at the peaks or the valleys?
 

Last edited by Unhingd; 11-26-2015 at 03:22 PM.
  #96  
Old 05-28-2016, 08:49 AM
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This week my tune was busted. With that said, I am going back to the tune because I refuse at this point in life, to allow a manufacture to tell me how do "own" my car. My 2013 XFR was in for a guaqge pack replacement under warranty. While I have to believe what happened was a tech error which I was forced to eat, it happened never-the-less. The dealer claims that when they hook up to the OB2 plug, JLRNA's system uploads,downloads what ever the status of the car it reads. They claim that because conflicting software was detected(not the tune the factory expected to see) my ecu refused to receive any new programming from the factory.

The result was that my car sat unable to start in the dealership for five days. Many heated conversations occurred between myself and the dealership of which i have bought over 20 new LR and Jags since 2001. I suppose I was the heated one, they were very calm. ON day five, a Jag regional tech arrived to declare my ecu dead and not able to receive my new gauge pack programming much less start the car. He claims that due to conflicting software, the ecu went to lock down mode(anti-theft)> Most likely due to the tech continuing to send and resend reprogram commands, the ecu assumed someone was trying to hack the ecu.

Bingo, i had to spend 1200.00 for a new ecu and warranty was refused. I am by no means done. I am convinced there was incompetentence in how the techs handled my situation. In this world of technology, I will not accept that the ecu could not be set back to a virgin mode and thus completely re-programmed.

My warning is that any ecu logs programing changes and thus programs are detectable. I do not believe that simply hooking up the factory OB2 connector will throw an ecu into orbit. I think the tech in haste tried to errantly force fed my ecu until it fought back. Because the guage pack and keys all have to be reprogrammed at the same time, there were too many variables involved. Likely a short cut was tried and I became the victim of the program.

I of course retained my old ecu. i am in search of a person that that can resurrect my old ecu at which time i would like to have it installed back in my car to put this back on JLRNA for being unable to free up my ecu. Any and all recommendations are invited. You do not need to dump on me( I got what i asked for), my dealer for not standing by me(they did error likely in covering their techs butt), or JRLRNA for now. I just want to forensically figure out what really did happen. I am a student of life and I will learn from this experience. Maybe that i am wrong and this tune really did do the damage or that my dealership needs more training.

Thanks
 
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  #97  
Old 05-28-2016, 09:00 AM
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I'm sorry for your troubles, but thanks for sharing this with the forum. This is first I've seen for a Jaguar, but I've seen a fair number of warranty denials for tunes on other makes and models.

Please don't name any company names on this forum, but was your tune done by a local tuner or by a tuner offering a canned tune on the internet? Lastly, did the tuner tell you the tune would be "undetectable."
 
  #98  
Old 05-28-2016, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Stwsam
This week my tune was busted. With that said, I am going back to the tune because I refuse at this point in life, to allow a manufacture to tell me how do "own" my car. My 2013 XFR was in for a guaqge pack replacement under warranty. While I have to believe what happened was a tech error which I was forced to eat, it happened never-the-less. The dealer claims that when they hook up to the OB2 plug, JLRNA's system uploads,downloads what ever the status of the car it reads. They claim that because conflicting software was detected(not the tune the factory expected to see) my ecu refused to receive any new programming from the factory.

The result was that my car sat unable to start in the dealership for five days. Many heated conversations occurred between myself and the dealership of which i have bought over 20 new LR and Jags since 2001. I suppose I was the heated one, they were very calm. ON day five, a Jag regional tech arrived to declare my ecu dead and not able to receive my new gauge pack programming much less start the car. He claims that due to conflicting software, the ecu went to lock down mode(anti-theft)> Most likely due to the tech continuing to send and resend reprogram commands, the ecu assumed someone was trying to hack the ecu.

Bingo, i had to spend 1200.00 for a new ecu and warranty was refused. I am by no means done. I am convinced there was incompetentence in how the techs handled my situation. In this world of technology, I will not accept that the ecu could not be set back to a virgin mode and thus completely re-programmed.

My warning is that any ecu logs programing changes and thus programs are detectable. I do not believe that simply hooking up the factory OB2 connector will throw an ecu into orbit. I think the tech in haste tried to errantly force fed my ecu until it fought back. Because the guage pack and keys all have to be reprogrammed at the same time, there were too many variables involved. Likely a short cut was tried and I became the victim of the program.

I of course retained my old ecu. i am in search of a person that that can resurrect my old ecu at which time i would like to have it installed back in my car to put this back on JLRNA for being unable to free up my ecu. Any and all recommendations are invited. You do not need to dump on me( I got what i asked for), my dealer for not standing by me(they did error likely in covering their techs butt), or JRLRNA for now. I just want to forensically figure out what really did happen. I am a student of life and I will learn from this experience. Maybe that i am wrong and this tune really did do the damage or that my dealership needs more training.

Thanks
Email Tuning@VelocityAP.com

Chris might be able to sort this for you.
 
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  #99  
Old 05-28-2016, 11:16 AM
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Unless your tuner purposefully wrote code or forces a checksum digit to hide the tune, it is hard to believe that just changing some torque management or A/F maps would interfere with synching up the gauge pak. That said, of course, once you've diddled with the ECU, the dealer is at liberty to disclaim any problems that are related.
 
  #100  
Old 05-28-2016, 11:32 AM
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Well known provider and yes on the "completely undetectable." However, having since done some reading, all tunes are detectable. It appears OEM systems now review an ecu for all programming such that it compares notes to what the OEM home office has on record for each specific car via its VIN number . I should have done more homework and I own that. I wanted the performance so I am paying the price. I would like to just help others in their decision making.

BTW, as I also have the pulley change, I have three alternatives.
A - Keep factory tune with a rough idle and some flat spots,
B- replace the supercharger(I still have old pulley but since it is pressed on and the new pulley had to be installed with some honing of the pulley shaft, the OEM pulley is in my opinion a dangerous re-install
C- and the choice I am making is to reinstall the tune. The car runs marvelous with it. Just paying the price of stepping outside the lines. In hindsight, had I been a believer of what just happened to me, I would NOT have done the tune.
 

Last edited by Stwsam; 05-28-2016 at 11:35 AM.
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