I own a Porsche regardless of money this car is what. Drive now.

 

 

I know this doesn't answer your question but I too am considering to purchase the F-Type R. I own a 2014 F-Type V8 and the one aspect that I do not like is the fact that the car is all over the place on the launch due to the fact that it is a rear wheel drive. Some people like the wheel spin and it being all over the place but I don't. Knowing what I know now about this car I would purchase the "R" model but 2016 and on since that was the initial year that all-wheel drive was made.

 

 

I'm guessing someone still has Pirelli's on their car!

I remember my first full throttle attempt in my F type (the day I bought it - used), the factory Pirelli tires slipped uncontrollably (car wasn't even accelerating that fast), and I thought maybe I made a bad choice in vehicle. After reading about tires on this forum, switched to Michelin PS4s tires and the car is night and day different. Even with the 605 HP tune, the rears don't break loose unless I'm trying (at least above 60 degrees and on dry roads). So, before switching cars, I'd recommend switching tires - you won't regret it.

 

How wide are your Michelins? I am currently 245 in the front and 295s in the rear. I have read that you can go as wide as 315 in the rear.
If you floor it off the start do your tires still spin?

 

If you have OEM 20" wheels, 245 in front is narrower than spec. 255 came standard on the F-Type. You can go as much as 265 on font without compromising the tire contact patch. On the rear, you should go no more than 305 on the OEM wheels. 315 tires will be slightly pinched, you may experience excessive wear in the middle of the tread, and traction won't be optimal.

 

I'm still running 295's on the rear, with my aftermarket wheels I can't go wider or I'd get rubbing on the fender lip. With factory wheels, most seem to have no issues going with 305's in the rear, so you may want to consider those. I run 265/30/20's on the front.

And yes, with anything other than binary throttle input (meaning don't just mash the pedal from a stop) I get little or no wheelspin. My "local track" consists of a loop with a few favorite freeway onramps where the 605 and 405 freeways meet and it's perfect for 10 mph to 100 mph blasts, The car is just a riot - right on the verge of breaking loose right up to 60 or 70 mph, but it doesn't (or not more than minor inputs from dynamic setting traction control can compensate for). From a standing start, I feather in the throttle until the car is moving then give it full power and it hooks up and goes, with practice it is very predictable.

With the crappy Pirelli's, I found the car almost undrivable at anything over 50% throttle. There was little warning before the rears would break loose and once spinning, short of cutting power 90% they wouldn't stop. Would have sold the car if those were the only tire option.

 

 

This is a HUGE thing in the resale business. Some sellers aren't even Jag dealerships yet they promote car as "CPO" even though they ave no way to ENSURE that any warranty can be easily and correctly transferred. I personally would NEVER buy a "supposed" CPO Jag from a non-Jag dealership without seeing it in person and verifying that the CPO was ACTUALLY a CPO and that such paperwork was TRULY trasnferrable

 

Also be very careful on terminology - CPO and extended warranty are different. Jag has a Cpo program where they certify the car (ie >100 checks and verifications eg brakes >70pc remaining, tire life, no body damage I believe etc). They typically pair that with an extended warranty.

If you buy a Jag from a 3rd party that was a dealer CPO when previously sold, the warranty should transfer (double check the paperwork!) but it is not a CPO. The CPO inspection was done by Jag when they sold it - unless the person you are buying it from has their own CPO program then it's simply a used jag with extended warranty.

 

+1 Far too many buyers confuse an "extended warranty" with CPO.
Another tangential note: As has been proven time and time again, some extended warranties aren't worth the paper they are printed on.

 

Agreed, extended warranties are merely insurance policies, even buying an extension from Jaguar cars in the UK, the manufacturer not a dealer, it's provided by a third party insurer.

Insurance as has been stated many times is a business that seeks to make a profit by ensuring revenue from insurance charges exceeds amount paid in claims (plus overhead costs).

Put simply the majority of policy holders are going to receive less financial benefit in terms of claims paid than the cost of the policy or extended warranty. It cannot be otherwise else the company goes out of business due to continuing financial losses.