Powder Coating 18" Vela Wheels
#3
#4
Here is the comparison.
Doesn't look like these wheels are 20's.
You should probably think about possibly starting with 20's if you really want to improve your look IMO.
If you look closely at the wheel size as it relates to the fender of your car, the wheel just looks too small.
You could look for some used black oem 20's if that would make more sense for you. With the cold weather coming, you could easily move your 18's to someone needing a winter option. Just a thought.
If not, yea black with white works far better than silver on white without a doubt. PM me if you want a lead on some black 20's.
Doesn't look like these wheels are 20's.
You should probably think about possibly starting with 20's if you really want to improve your look IMO.
If you look closely at the wheel size as it relates to the fender of your car, the wheel just looks too small.
You could look for some used black oem 20's if that would make more sense for you. With the cold weather coming, you could easily move your 18's to someone needing a winter option. Just a thought.
If not, yea black with white works far better than silver on white without a doubt. PM me if you want a lead on some black 20's.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 08-28-2016 at 02:29 PM.
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NiteriderSC (08-28-2016)
#5
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NiteriderSC (08-28-2016)
#6
im leasing the car and so although i agree upgrading the wheel /tire size will net me the best look, i find it to be more of a loss to me at the end when i return the car. $500 covers the total cost to powdercoat and mount/ balance wheels.
Last edited by NiteriderSC; 08-28-2016 at 03:15 PM.
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#8
You can plastic dip the wheels in a few hours and the material is $10. Do 4 or 5 light coats and let dry 15 minutes between. You don't even need to mask the tires, when you're done spraying, just take a razor and trim around the wheel bead and the overspray will just peel off the tire in one sheet. No mounting, balancing, installing, nada. Play with white wheels, see how it looks monotoned out.
I watched a guy do my emblems and was amazed as to the simplicity of the job.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 08-28-2016 at 04:17 PM.
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NiteriderSC (08-28-2016)
#9
#10
The issue with plastidip is that they arr semi gloss and eventually fade/dry out. You would need to reapply coats to maintain the sheen. Powerdercoating wheels on a lease car wont get u any penalty at lease end. In fact the dealer asked me if I need to use their vendor for the wheels lol
#11
Not sure if this will help, but here are 19" Propeller powdered coated in gloss black
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NiteriderSC (08-30-2016)
#13
#14
They certainly did! Looks so much better! Nicely done.
What did they charge per wheel, one coat or two?
Looks like you bolted them on yourself. Did you jack up each corner? If so, where did jack up for the fronts? I see where everyone recommends jacking the rear corners (plate with the three bolt heads), but the fronts still elude me
What did they charge per wheel, one coat or two?
Looks like you bolted them on yourself. Did you jack up each corner? If so, where did jack up for the fronts? I see where everyone recommends jacking the rear corners (plate with the three bolt heads), but the fronts still elude me
#15
The Propellers are my winter setup and I will eventually sell them. But I question whether I'll find more buyers keeping them un-powder coated or powered coated black?
#16
Niterider,
The 18" Velas look fantastic in gloss black powder coat. The visual effect is that the wheel wells are much more nicely filled out, which negates that "too small" look.
I have an under 2K mile mounted set in my climate-controlled barn in shipping crates from when I swapped mine out for 20" Gyrodynes. The are in no exaggeration perfect condition. If I still had the car, I'd do exactly what you did, and swap them back and forth w/ all-seasons.
I haven't tried to sell them yet, but would love to find them a new home. Someone will get a bargain basement deal.
The 18" Velas look fantastic in gloss black powder coat. The visual effect is that the wheel wells are much more nicely filled out, which negates that "too small" look.
I have an under 2K mile mounted set in my climate-controlled barn in shipping crates from when I swapped mine out for 20" Gyrodynes. The are in no exaggeration perfect condition. If I still had the car, I'd do exactly what you did, and swap them back and forth w/ all-seasons.
I haven't tried to sell them yet, but would love to find them a new home. Someone will get a bargain basement deal.
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NiteriderSC (08-31-2016)
#17
They certainly did! Looks so much better! Nicely done.
What did they charge per wheel, one coat or two?
Looks like you bolted them on yourself. Did you jack up each corner? If so, where did jack up for the fronts? I see where everyone recommends jacking the rear corners (plate with the three bolt heads), but the fronts still elude me
What did they charge per wheel, one coat or two?
Looks like you bolted them on yourself. Did you jack up each corner? If so, where did jack up for the fronts? I see where everyone recommends jacking the rear corners (plate with the three bolt heads), but the fronts still elude me
I left the car on Jack stands while the wheels were off. I had a wheel and tire shop years ago and so although I used the guide below I do not recommend doing what I did of you are un familiar/ unsure of it. Those willing to tackle it use the guide below.
Using the floor jack, I raised the rear from the center of the differential housing, once up I added the jack stands. After the whole rear is up its simply a matter of jacking up one the front corner and placing both stands at the designated points.
Last edited by NiteriderSC; 08-31-2016 at 11:55 AM.
#18
$500 To have them dismounted, powder coated gloss black, remounted and balanced. Dropped them off Mon morning and got them back tues afternoon.
I left the car on Jack stands while the wheels were off. I had a wheel and tire shop years ago and so although I used the guide below I do not recommend doing what I did of you are un familiar/ unsure of it. Those willing to tackle it use the guide below.
I raised the rear through the diff. After the whole rear is up its simply a matter of jacking up on the the front corners and placing the stands at the designated points.
I left the car on Jack stands while the wheels were off. I had a wheel and tire shop years ago and so although I used the guide below I do not recommend doing what I did of you are un familiar/ unsure of it. Those willing to tackle it use the guide below.
I raised the rear through the diff. After the whole rear is up its simply a matter of jacking up on the the front corners and placing the stands at the designated points.
Thanks for posting the diagram again. I have seen it on a few threads here regarding jacking points for the FType. I'm no stranger to switching out my summer/winter wheels (on my other cars), but I find Jaguar did a terrible job indicating the location for specific jacking points. Not to get into a debate over to use/not use jack stands when doing a quick change out, but I
just use my floor jack. If I was getting under the car or keeping it up in the air for long, obviously jack stands are must.
#19
Foosh
I was worried about just that! I agree its now more of an illusion at this point because obviously the wheel gap has not changed yet it has that filled in effect. Car actually looks longer and dare I say Aston like in person. absolutely love it!
Ive had 6 Corvettes prior to this Jag and I will admit That the F Type is the prettiest automobile Ive ever owned.
I was worried about just that! I agree its now more of an illusion at this point because obviously the wheel gap has not changed yet it has that filled in effect. Car actually looks longer and dare I say Aston like in person. absolutely love it!
Ive had 6 Corvettes prior to this Jag and I will admit That the F Type is the prettiest automobile Ive ever owned.
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IRRBrogue (08-31-2016)
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