RaceChip Install Questions
#1
RaceChip Install Questions
I received my RaceChip today and would like some input from anyone familiar with installing the unit.
First off, the connection at the back of the engine. What sensor is that, the MAP or the supercharger boost? Those two connections are the only ones necessary to install the unit. The one on the front of the engine looks very accessible and shouldn't be too hard to connect.
The one on the back of the engine, on the other hand, is in a bit of a tight spot and even given being able to disconnect it there seems very little room to remove the connector after it's free.
My question with the rear connector is: Would it be not be simpler to simply disconnect the sensor itself (whichever one it is) from the engine block (with connector in place), make the connections, then reattach the sensor to the engine block? The sensor is held in place with one screw, but I have no idea what's underneath.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed any light on this procedure.
First off, the connection at the back of the engine. What sensor is that, the MAP or the supercharger boost? Those two connections are the only ones necessary to install the unit. The one on the front of the engine looks very accessible and shouldn't be too hard to connect.
The one on the back of the engine, on the other hand, is in a bit of a tight spot and even given being able to disconnect it there seems very little room to remove the connector after it's free.
My question with the rear connector is: Would it be not be simpler to simply disconnect the sensor itself (whichever one it is) from the engine block (with connector in place), make the connections, then reattach the sensor to the engine block? The sensor is held in place with one screw, but I have no idea what's underneath.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed any light on this procedure.
#2
#3
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Try this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...3/#post2120366
I don't think anyone has successfully disconnected the MAPT sensor, plugged in the RC, then reconnected the sensor.
I don't think anyone has successfully disconnected the MAPT sensor, plugged in the RC, then reconnected the sensor.
#4
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I received my RaceChip today and would like some input from anyone familiar with installing the unit.
First off, the connection at the back of the engine. What sensor is that, the MAP or the supercharger boost? Those two connections are the only ones necessary to install the unit. The one on the front of the engine looks very accessible and shouldn't be too hard to connect.
The one on the back of the engine, on the other hand, is in a bit of a tight spot and even given being able to disconnect it there seems very little room to remove the connector after it's free.
My question with the rear connector is: Would it be not be simpler to simply disconnect the sensor itself (whichever one it is) from the engine block (with connector in place), make the connections, then reattach the sensor to the engine block? The sensor is held in place with one screw, but I have no idea what's underneath.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed any light on this procedure.
First off, the connection at the back of the engine. What sensor is that, the MAP or the supercharger boost? Those two connections are the only ones necessary to install the unit. The one on the front of the engine looks very accessible and shouldn't be too hard to connect.
The one on the back of the engine, on the other hand, is in a bit of a tight spot and even given being able to disconnect it there seems very little room to remove the connector after it's free.
My question with the rear connector is: Would it be not be simpler to simply disconnect the sensor itself (whichever one it is) from the engine block (with connector in place), make the connections, then reattach the sensor to the engine block? The sensor is held in place with one screw, but I have no idea what's underneath.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed any light on this procedure.
DC
#6
Try this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...3/#post2120366
I don't think anyone has successfully disconnected the MAPT sensor, plugged in the RC, then reconnected the sensor.
I don't think anyone has successfully disconnected the MAPT sensor, plugged in the RC, then reconnected the sensor.
#7
BTW, have have you noticed any gains in acceleration or torque?
Last edited by fujicoupe; 05-21-2020 at 08:00 AM. Reason: old age
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#8
Question for anyone who has installed RaceChip:
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
#9
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Question for anyone who has installed RaceChip:
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
DC
Results: (Note these are on a V8 - R)
Stock = 487 WHP / 460 Torque
SC Pulley no tune (WHP) = 506 WHP / 480 Torque
Stock + Racechip GTS Black Map = 535 WHP / 505 Torque
Racechip GTS Black Map 7 + SC Pulley = 555 WHP / 520 Torque
Peak WHP gain anywhere across the RPM band w/Racechip is about 70 HP eyeballing it.
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 594 HP / 561 Torque
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 616 HP / 578 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 629 HP / 594 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 653 HP/ 612 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 669 HP / 631 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 694 HP / 650 Torque
#10
That back connector is kicking my behind. The front one came apart no problem, but the back one seems cemented in place. Is there a locking clip and if so which way does it need to be moved to maybe get the connector apart? I tried removing the sensor but there seemed to be a fairly long probe that I didn't think it wise to take out.
#11
Got it! Using a hook from a small hook and pick set, and two blade screwdrivers it came right off. These old eyes had a hard time seeing the clip that was holding the connectors together, but once I saw it I was able to hook it and lift up while I pried the connector enough with one screwdriver to get by the tab that keeps it from coming loose, then grab the other screwdriver to slide it on off.
Thanks everyone for your patience and assistance.
Thanks everyone for your patience and assistance.
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scm (05-21-2020)
#12
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Location: (Illinois) - Led by Gov. PRICKster
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Got it! Using a hook from a small hook and pick set, and two blade screwdrivers it came right off. These old eyes had a hard time seeing the clip that was holding the connectors together, but once I saw it I was able to hook it and lift up while I pried the connector enough with one screwdriver to get by the tab that keeps it from coming loose, then grab the other screwdriver to slide it on off.
Thanks everyone for your patience and assistance.
Thanks everyone for your patience and assistance.
DC
#13
Question for anyone who has installed RaceChip:
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
The first step in installing the RaceChip is to open the bonnet and lock the vehicle. My vehicle will not lock with the bonnet open and I don't want fiddle with both latches to fool the car into thinking it's locked.
Will it be okay to proceed with bonnet open and vehicle unlocked?
#15
Only because that is the first instruction: "Open bonnet and lock vehicle before beginning installation"
It's all installed and car is running fine with no codes or glitches that I can tell. It does seem a tad stronger after one short test drive (some under full throttle, but only in a straight line as the roads are wet).
Except for that stubborn rear connector (MAFT sensor), very easy.
Downloaded the app and registered the unit, played with settings, etc. with no issues.
I'll post impressions after some experience, esp. on dry pavement.
Thanks again everyone, esp. Rock for the assistance.
It's all installed and car is running fine with no codes or glitches that I can tell. It does seem a tad stronger after one short test drive (some under full throttle, but only in a straight line as the roads are wet).
Except for that stubborn rear connector (MAFT sensor), very easy.
Downloaded the app and registered the unit, played with settings, etc. with no issues.
I'll post impressions after some experience, esp. on dry pavement.
Thanks again everyone, esp. Rock for the assistance.
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JagRag (05-21-2020)
#16
Yes...It will be fine. And you are correct. No lock with Bonnet open. On your previous question about noticing a change in performance. I have posted DYNO results posted by another user. More factual than a guess at butt DYNO.
DC
Results: (Note these are on a V8 - R)
Stock = 487 WHP / 460 Torque
SC Pulley no tune (WHP) = 506 WHP / 480 Torque
Stock + Racechip GTS Black Map = 535 WHP / 505 Torque
Racechip GTS Black Map 7 + SC Pulley = 555 WHP / 520 Torque
Peak WHP gain anywhere across the RPM band w/Racechip is about 70 HP eyeballing it.
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 594 HP / 561 Torque
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 616 HP / 578 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 629 HP / 594 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 653 HP/ 612 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 669 HP / 631 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 694 HP / 650 Torque
DC
Results: (Note these are on a V8 - R)
Stock = 487 WHP / 460 Torque
SC Pulley no tune (WHP) = 506 WHP / 480 Torque
Stock + Racechip GTS Black Map = 535 WHP / 505 Torque
Racechip GTS Black Map 7 + SC Pulley = 555 WHP / 520 Torque
Peak WHP gain anywhere across the RPM band w/Racechip is about 70 HP eyeballing it.
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 594 HP / 561 Torque
Assuming 10% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 616 HP / 578 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 629 HP / 594 Torque
Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 653 HP/ 612 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip nets you 669 HP / 631 Torque
Assuming 20% drivetrain loss, Racechip + SC Pulley nets you 694 HP / 650 Torque
#17
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Only real way to know on your car is to Dyno it on an AWD Dyno. Even then, the numbers will vary based on the Dyno machine, temps, humidity etc..
So all you can hope for is to be directionally correct...
DC
#18
#19
Only because that is the first instruction: "Open bonnet and lock vehicle before beginning installation"
It's all installed and car is running fine with no codes or glitches that I can tell. It does seem a tad stronger after one short test drive (some under full throttle, but only in a straight line as the roads are wet).
Except for that stubborn rear connector (MAFT sensor), very easy.
Downloaded the app and registered the unit, played with settings, etc. with no issues.
I'll post impressions after some experience, esp. on dry pavement.
Thanks again everyone, esp. Rock for the assistance.
It's all installed and car is running fine with no codes or glitches that I can tell. It does seem a tad stronger after one short test drive (some under full throttle, but only in a straight line as the roads are wet).
Except for that stubborn rear connector (MAFT sensor), very easy.
Downloaded the app and registered the unit, played with settings, etc. with no issues.
I'll post impressions after some experience, esp. on dry pavement.
Thanks again everyone, esp. Rock for the assistance.
hey mate, thanks for the posts. I just got a F-Type SVR and thinking about getting this, mainly for some extra pops and crackles. Did you notice a difference in pops and crackles? also any feedback on performance feeling?
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