Hello,
My car club is attending a raceway on Sunday and we have the opportunity to race our cars. I entered my 2020 F-type SVR (575 hp) and would like some tips on drag racing. Would it be good to use racing fuel?
Should I use the manual paddle shifters (what RPM to shift into different gear) or just use the automatic mode? Use dynamic mode? Also before the light changes push hard on the brake pedal(I have the heavy duty ceramics) while simultaneously accelerator pedal to the floor? Thanks for your advice!

 

DO NOT USE RACE FULE. Your car is not designed for race fuel, which means you will get less performance and pay much more for the fuel and at best, you will screw up your O2 sensors.

 

I race various cars I have from time to time, including the F-Type. So here are a couple of thoughts - all subjective and preferential.(Don't worry, an expert will come along here soon and post the correct/best info).

Race fuel - Higher Octane fuel is good to use for these. If for no other reason than the higher Octane is a good protection for knock/pre-detonation.

I have tried a variety of launch techniques and in my opinion, you are not going to manually outshift the auto modes... and if you are in sport mode, even if you redline it will not shift when you are in manual. It will pop and quickly go into limp mode if you miss a shift.

You can usually brake boost/power brake it to about 2000 PRM +/- pretty safely. I have found best results to be with Sport mode/Dynamic mode/and leave traction control On. It depends on your style and race length too (1/4, 1/8, 1/2 mile). Hold brake, get up to ~2000 RPM - release brake and pedal to floor.

With the supercharger, if you hot lap it, make sure to watch for heat soak...these are very susceptible to that. And actually running it hard and then letting it sit just builds up the heat...try to run a bit after (easy) to allow airflow to cool it down.

Have fun and try various approaches and use what works best for you. These are just some thoughts from past experiences...

DC

 

There's race fuel and then there's race fuel. I'm not sure which Vik (eeeek) is referring to but I trust his assessment.

At the local track there's a grade of unleaded that is slightly higher octane (actually AKI) than available at any local station. Last time I was there it was 96. I wouldn't go more than that. The 110 unleaded would be a waste of money since you're not tuned for it. Leaded race fuel would ruin your cats in no time. The manufactured blends of race fuel that aren't really gasoline I've never used, not even in the bikes. Maybe it's changed since I quit racing but those needed to be drained, replaced with gasoline, and the engine run long enough to flush it out of the system. Storage with that in place can damage components. Not exactly sure what because I didn't go that route, but even the smell of that stuff is nasty.

 

If you are at a dragstrip with a staging area there is usually a water box area which is basically a shallow puddle for rear wheel drive cars to drive through, wet their tires and then do a burnout and heat up their tires. As your SVR is AWD drive around the water box area for optimum grip off the line.

 

Just a note of clarification...

While these are AWD, they are EXTREMELY rear wheel biased. Especially, in Dynamic and Sport mode... it is ~90%+ rear wheel...So would consider that as well.

DC

 

So here's the thing about 'Race fuel'. When you say race fuel, I think race fuel. It's usually 100 Octane leaded (this will go comically wrong for you), 110 Octane and generally something higher. Your car will run slower on 110 that it would 91.(higher octane burns cooler) and even if you were tuned for 110, you'd need to make sure your tank is empty before you even put any in. Anything above your normal pump gas 91/93, depending where you live) is a complete waste of money.

 

I can tell you from firsthand experience (there are others as well that could chime in here, @supersportmtl @Terrance39 @Jagauf on their own ideas, for me, the best way to launch for a drag run is, Dynamic Mode ON, Sport Mode ON, ALL traction control OFF (robs too much power, push and hold traction control until you get to DSC OFF, not just TRAC DSC) and let the car shift itself. Some will say manually shift, but I will never shift as quick as the ECU/TCU can on it's own and find less benefit by trying to do so. At least 1/4 tank of fuel or less if possible. As for race fuel, unless you are tuned for something else, I would not use it as I do not think you will see the benefit.

Typically I will power brake it to around 1500-2000 (which is pretty safe) and if there is a Christmas tree to start, depending on the sequence, release on second yellow, which gives your best R/T and gives the car time to respond to full throttle to launch. I know of several F-Types that are tuned already in the high 10's, but here was my best run at 11.26 doing as described above:

 

That's interesting to read about the Auto mode. I came to a similar conclusion while at a track day, The auto shifting is quite good and there are times I think I could do a touch better, if I'm completely honest, my lap times were better in auto mode than manual. I think that's because I could focus more on just driving. In a 1/4 run, it makes sense that the car would be better on its own.

 

Sorry, double post!

 

Great video, well done

 

Interesting observation. Here in UK standard pump gas is 95, but premium (which I use in the E Type) is 99 with lower ethanol levels so better for classic cars. Also advised to use the premium (99) fuel in the F Type, and it runs very well on it. Perhaps UK based cars have ignition timing etc different to US ones?

 

The difference is different octane ratings, UK uses RON while USA uses AKI.
Generally speaking the AKI rating is around 4 or 5 points lower than the RON rating so US 91 is about the same as UK 95.

 

Aah, get it, thanks. But still use the 99 octane on the F as recommended to me and runs well.

 

Down here in Oz we have mainly 91, 95 and 98 RON.
Minimum RON for the F-Type is 95 but I use 98 exclusively.
One day I might try a tank of 95 to see how it goes.

 

I was thinking along those lines as well. One of the pumps at Sonoma Raceway is not "race gas" but just a little higher rating than any of my local stations. Even when racing, that's what I used because I didn't have a fully built engine. A couple of bikes had higher compression pistons but nothing crazy; not anything I'd worry about in a street build.

 

As a typical American, I tend to think of things in an American centric view. I was referencing the US measurement of Octane (Specifically California). The measurement is different in other states (only by a couple points) and much different pretty much everywhere else in the world. I'm also stuck on gallons and miles, even though the metric system is a far better measuring system.

 

I only had one bike with an engine built for race gas. It was expensive and had a finite shelf life. All the rest, I'd fill up my jugs at Costco.

 

Listen to the Therock88 he has done a lot of racing. Attached is a launch instruction sheet I got from an experienced drag racer (Sorry but I forgot who it was and can't give credit where credit is due!). I have a 2014 XJR that makes 540HP to the rear wheels. So I don't have the wonderful AWD you guys got on the F-Type! I really can't use all that power with only rear wheel drive. I can get the traction control to light up at 60mph on dry pavement if I punch it. Forget about anything like full throttle launches!

So I have a terrible time with my launches and want to do better.

Forgot to add but how serious are you? Willing to change the tires? Ever run drag radials?
What size and tire are you running now. I only run Michelin Pilot Sports. Don't care for the brand but I can't find a tire that works better for me and my car.
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I think it all depends on your setup. If you are tuned and trying to offset timing corrections from higher ambient temps. You could technically run a mix of E85 and 93 to get to E20 for its cooling properties. You can use an app like e85Cal to help make sure your mix is accurate.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/e85cal/id1470313135