Is it really necessary to change pads when changing rotors?
#1
Is it really necessary to change pads when changing rotors?
My car has only 15,000 miles and I bought drilled and slotted rotors. I am not really sure why I don't want to change the pads especially since the OEM pads are so heavy with dust but is it necessary to change pads when I change the rotors? And maybe I am being lazy since I spent so long yesterday installing the Mina Gallery full system. I will say that is a pain to install for something so simple.
#2
#3
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It's a good idea to replace the brake pads if the discs are being replaced so an even wear pattern is established between the pads and discs. Discs and pads should be replaced in axle sets.
Minimum pad friction material is 4mm to avoid having to replace the wear sensor.
Minimum pad friction material is 4mm to avoid having to replace the wear sensor.
Last edited by NBCat; 04-02-2022 at 01:44 PM. Reason: correct typo
#5
I guess it wasn't that it was more difficult but rather the OEM pads are still good for another 30k. It is true the OEM are horrible with dust so I will just order new pads. It seems the Porterfield R4-s seem to the route most go. Is there a cheaper place anyone suggests to get them? I know Velocity has them but would think others have to have them cheaper. I bought R1 Geomet rotors and I know they have their pads they claim are good but I have no experience with them.
#7
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I bought mine from LPI Racing over four years ago now, see here: https://www.lpiracing.com/store/pc/s...r=2015&submit=
They were the cheapest I could find at the time but you may find cheaper elsewhere.
For a 2016 R you want AP 1750 for the front and AP 1753 for the rear.
Go to the second page of the linked page for the 1753s.
Remember to check the R4-S and not the R4, R4-1 or R4-E.
They were the cheapest I could find at the time but you may find cheaper elsewhere.
For a 2016 R you want AP 1750 for the front and AP 1753 for the rear.
Go to the second page of the linked page for the 1753s.
Remember to check the R4-S and not the R4, R4-1 or R4-E.
Last edited by OzXFR; 04-02-2022 at 07:51 PM.
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#9
I've always replaced pads & rotors independently. (at different mileages)
I DO measure rotor thickness with each pad change to assure they are over the minimum.
Doesn't the bed-in procedure establish the even wear pattern?
(I understand that a shop might replace pads & rotors together to reduce call-backs)
I DO measure rotor thickness with each pad change to assure they are over the minimum.
Doesn't the bed-in procedure establish the even wear pattern?
(I understand that a shop might replace pads & rotors together to reduce call-backs)
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Awd (04-03-2022)
#10
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I reckon you should have zero problems putting used pads on new rotors providing you check/do three things:
1. The used pads are in good nick and still have plenty of meat on them.
2. You level off / scuff back / deglaze the surfaces of the pads to get them clean, flat, even and free of any previous wear pattern, in the past I have simply rubbed them on smooth concrete to do this and never had a problem.
3. You properly bed the pads to the new rotors.
1. The used pads are in good nick and still have plenty of meat on them.
2. You level off / scuff back / deglaze the surfaces of the pads to get them clean, flat, even and free of any previous wear pattern, in the past I have simply rubbed them on smooth concrete to do this and never had a problem.
3. You properly bed the pads to the new rotors.
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89 Jacobra (04-03-2022)
#12
The issue is typically putting new pads on old rotors (i.e. getting the old transfer layer off the existing rotors to bed in the new pads). Using older pads with new rotors is just fine. However, changing rotors is the hard part of a brake job. Since you are already there, throwing some new pads on isn't a bad idea.
#13
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89 Jacobra (04-03-2022)
#14
FWIW, some manufactures will tell you if you can switch between their different compounds with issue (i.e. Carbotech). Even with that, I've never actually run into a problem changing pads on used rotors. I'm not suggesting there aren't any negative effects but I do think brake pad materials have advanced in this area since the guidance was made.
#16
Hence the mention about the newer materials. They don't appear to have the same limitations as back in the day. However, pad bed-in is also important. I always bed new pads in using an open parking lot until you get that nice brake smell.
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Carbuff2 (04-05-2022)
#18
I bought mine from LPI Racing over four years ago now, see here: https://www.lpiracing.com/store/pc/s...r=2015&submit=
They were the cheapest I could find at the time but you may find cheaper elsewhere.
For a 2016 R you want AP 1750 for the front and AP 1753 for the rear.
Go to the second page of the linked page for the 1753s.
Remember to check the R4-S and not the R4, R4-1 or R4-E.
They were the cheapest I could find at the time but you may find cheaper elsewhere.
For a 2016 R you want AP 1750 for the front and AP 1753 for the rear.
Go to the second page of the linked page for the 1753s.
Remember to check the R4-S and not the R4, R4-1 or R4-E.
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