Rear rotor replacement when rear pads changed.
#1
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I can't find the thread using search, but I read something on hear about jaguar service replacing rotors as a regular service item. Is it normal Jaguar policy to replace the rear rotors when they replace the pads? I saw the new thickness was 34mm and the min is 33.5mm. That sounds pretty crazy to replace rotors at $440 over 0.5mm difference, especially the rear rotors. I suspect replacement is not necessary. My pads are at the 3mm min, but it will pass inspection and the sensor is not going off. My plan is to replace all the pads this winter with Porterfields, and change the brake fluid.
Is there any reason I am overlooking to replace the rotors. The car has the Super Performance Brakes.
Is there any reason I am overlooking to replace the rotors. The car has the Super Performance Brakes.
#2
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I can't find the thread using search, but I read something on hear about jaguar service replacing rotors as a regular service item. Is it normal Jaguar policy to replace the rear rotors when they replace the pads? I saw the new thickness was 34mm and the min is 33.5mm. That sounds pretty crazy to replace rotors at $440 over 0.5mm difference, especially the rear rotors. I suspect replacement is not necessary. My pads are at the 3mm min, but it will pass inspection and the sensor is not going off. My plan is to replace all the pads this winter with Porterfields, and change the brake fluid.
Is there any reason I am overlooking to replace the rotors. The car has the Super Performance Brakes.
Is there any reason I am overlooking to replace the rotors. The car has the Super Performance Brakes.
Disc spec for them is 26 mm thick when new and 24 mm thick when needing replacement - all modern Jag steel brake discs have the same 2 mm difference between new and worn. The 34 and 33.5 mm figures you quote are I think for the CCM rear discs so not applicable to your brakes. The specs for the front 380 mm brake discs (which you have) are 36 mm new and 34 mm worn.
This 2 mm wear limit is wildly conservative, it's only a whopping 1 mm each side, so plenty of meat left still, it's just that Jag is being super safe and also spruiking for some extra cash for the JLR dealership service department with very early disc replacement. Also on pretty much all modern Jags including the F-Type the insides of the discs tend to wear about twice the rate of the outsides, so to get to 2 mm below new thickness you would probably have around 1.33 mm wear on the inside and .67 mm wear on the outside.
JLR dealerships are trained to tell the customer that every time they fit new brake pads the discs must be renewed as well. They will tell you this is necessary for "optimal brake performance" but it is basically BS and just another way to extract some more cash from you.
In 99% of cases the discs will last perfectly well for two fully worn out sets of pads so if it's a newish car still on the first set of pads the rotors will NOT need replacing first time around. If you fit the exact same type and brand of pads again (eg OEM) then that is all you need to do, fit the pads, but if you fit different pads (eg Porterfields) you should get the discs skimmed/machined first so they have a nice fresh face for the new pads to bed to. Any half decent brake shop can skim the discs for around $20 a pop.
The only way to properly check the pad and disc wear and condition is to take the wheels off, remove the pads and physically inspect and measure them, and inspect the discs on both sides and measure their thickness with a vernier caliper.
This is all relatively easy DIY or if you are not willing or able to DIY for some reason take the car to a brake shop (not a JLR dealership!) and get them to do it, shouldn't cost you much.
You will not void the warranty by having a qualified and accredited brake shop work on the brakes.
#3
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Replacing the pads and even the discs is pretty easy really, lots of threads and posts around here on how to do it, tips & tricks etc.
Edit - forgot to add - if you take the car to a brake shop to get the discs skimmed then you really should get them to fit the new pads at the same time.
Not a helluva lot of extra labour involved as the calipers need to come off or at least be undone to remove and reinstall the discs anyway.
Also check beforehand that they have a 9 mm hex driver for the front brake caliper slide pins, not a common size and not all shops have them.
You really should fit the new pads immediately to the skimmed discs otherwise it's almost a waste of time getting them skimmed and then running them with the old pads!
But if you discover that the discs really are worn too much and need replacing then once you have all the parts you can DIY and save a bit of cash.
Edit # 2.
I have now figured out where you got the 34 mm new and 33.5 worn brake disc thicknesses from, and the 3 mm worn pad figure.
From the F-Type V6S Workshop Manual, odds on to be the one that was originally mine.
It is defective in this area, it shows these thickness specs for the CCM brakes but not for the steel brakes!
Last edited by OzXFR; 09-26-2019 at 08:29 PM.
#5
#6
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Good onya!
Replacing the pads and even the discs is pretty easy really, lots of threads and posts around here on how to do it, tips & tricks etc.
Edit - forgot to add - if you take the car to a brake shop to get the discs skimmed then you really should get them to fit the new pads at the same time.
Not a helluva lot of extra labour involved as the calipers need to come off or at least be undone to remove and reinstall the discs anyway.
Also check beforehand that they have a 9 mm hex driver for the front brake caliper slide pins, not a common size and not all shops have them.
You really should fit the new pads immediately to the skimmed discs otherwise it's almost a waste of time getting them skimmed and then running them with the old pads!
But if you discover that the discs really are worn too much and need replacing then once you have all the parts you can DIY and save a bit of cash.
Replacing the pads and even the discs is pretty easy really, lots of threads and posts around here on how to do it, tips & tricks etc.
Edit - forgot to add - if you take the car to a brake shop to get the discs skimmed then you really should get them to fit the new pads at the same time.
Not a helluva lot of extra labour involved as the calipers need to come off or at least be undone to remove and reinstall the discs anyway.
Also check beforehand that they have a 9 mm hex driver for the front brake caliper slide pins, not a common size and not all shops have them.
You really should fit the new pads immediately to the skimmed discs otherwise it's almost a waste of time getting them skimmed and then running them with the old pads!
But if you discover that the discs really are worn too much and need replacing then once you have all the parts you can DIY and save a bit of cash.
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Firstly, the anti-dive braking system which applies the rear brakes fractionally earlier and a bit harder than the front brakes.
Secondly, the parking brake (EPB) which acts on the rear brakes only and it's auto release function.
Thirdly, the rear brake pads are not as thick to start with as the front pads, 10.8 mm vs 13 mm.
On every other car I have ever owned the front pads have worn around twice as fast as the rear pads and that is what owners expect (coz the front brakes do about 80% of the braking) but Jags are different!
34,000 miles is bloody good going for a set of rear pads, many only get 10,000 or 15,000 miles, I wouldn't complain if I were you.
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SS4PK (09-27-2019)
#9
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I’ve got over 50,000 miles on mine, but I don’t brake hard, except for 2 track days. But while this spring’s Multipoint Inspection said green (front) and yellow (rear) (I think), I expect to do them next year as they’ve gotten a bit grabby, and aren’t as smooth as they used to be.
My former hybrid chewed through rear brakes, but with regenerative braking on the front, I could kind of see that.
My former hybrid chewed through rear brakes, but with regenerative braking on the front, I could kind of see that.
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SS4PK (09-27-2019)
#10
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I have now figured out where you got the 34 mm new and 33.5 worn brake disc thicknesses from, and the 3 mm worn pad figure.
From the F-Type V6S Workshop Manual, odds on to be the one that was originally mine.
It is defective in this area, it shows these thickness specs for the CCM brakes but not for the steel brakes!
Here's a copy of that brake spec page:
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/1152x648/brake_disc_specs_a9753cb4ad8d0e6f0ea5e64dd9daf6389286352e.jpg)
#11
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I’ve got over 50,000 miles on mine, but I don’t brake hard, except for 2 track days. But while this spring’s Multipoint Inspection said green (front) and yellow (rear) (I think), I expect to do them next year as they’ve gotten a bit grabby, and aren’t as smooth as they used to be.
My former hybrid chewed through rear brakes, but with regenerative braking on the front, I could kind of see that.
My former hybrid chewed through rear brakes, but with regenerative braking on the front, I could kind of see that.
Front pads weren't as worn but had them replaced as well with OEM pads (ridiculously expensive)
As other have stated would expect two sets of pads (84 000 miles approximately in my case)
Before needing new discs
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