Removing center channel grill and speaker, stereo upgrade details
#1
Removing center channel grill and speaker, stereo upgrade details
Any details or information on removing the grill to access the center channel speaker? I’m looking to replace that speaker with the JLR. OEM upgrade speaker.
So far I’ve replaced the door speakers with the JLR OEM speaker and applied a dynamat like material on the 4 sides of the doors with a brand called Siless. They have a regular, heavy material that I used on the inside of the outer shell of the door. To keep the weight down, I used a foam based material on the other 3 sides of the door. I also cut the wires to the rear subwoofers but kept the mid rear speakers intact.
Prior to doing all of this, I did have a Rockford Fosgate 12” powered sub in the back and it sounded pretty good after tweaking the EQ and levels. But after doing the 3 things I mentioned, this system sounds much better. Not better than the RF sub but good enough that I’d rather get rid of the sub at this point for the weight and space savings.
This is an easy upgrade and is well worth the time and money for the sound quality difference. I was planning on an elaborate system with a DSP, multiple amps, etc, but the cost and weight overweights what I think I could gain in sound quality over this system at this point. It could use some more bass and I might throw an Audio Control ACM 2.300 inline with the door woofers but not sure it’s worth it to add another bigger sub.
Between this and the UAD CarPlay upgrade, this is a reasonably nice sound system that doesn’t fart out and leave you disappointed/embarrassed when you turn it up with someone else in the car.
Thanks in advance for any advice on the dash speaker removal approach.
Dat
So far I’ve replaced the door speakers with the JLR OEM speaker and applied a dynamat like material on the 4 sides of the doors with a brand called Siless. They have a regular, heavy material that I used on the inside of the outer shell of the door. To keep the weight down, I used a foam based material on the other 3 sides of the door. I also cut the wires to the rear subwoofers but kept the mid rear speakers intact.
Prior to doing all of this, I did have a Rockford Fosgate 12” powered sub in the back and it sounded pretty good after tweaking the EQ and levels. But after doing the 3 things I mentioned, this system sounds much better. Not better than the RF sub but good enough that I’d rather get rid of the sub at this point for the weight and space savings.
This is an easy upgrade and is well worth the time and money for the sound quality difference. I was planning on an elaborate system with a DSP, multiple amps, etc, but the cost and weight overweights what I think I could gain in sound quality over this system at this point. It could use some more bass and I might throw an Audio Control ACM 2.300 inline with the door woofers but not sure it’s worth it to add another bigger sub.
Between this and the UAD CarPlay upgrade, this is a reasonably nice sound system that doesn’t fart out and leave you disappointed/embarrassed when you turn it up with someone else in the car.
Thanks in advance for any advice on the dash speaker removal approach.
Dat
#2
1) Pop the fancy trim panel off just above the screen/in front of the vents. It needs to come off straight up (from it's perspective), not one edge first. And it is well secured, it wont come easy. Don't scratch the leather on the vent or sides or the screen bezel. (Yeah, right) I used a nylon bone tool but IF I have to do that again, I might try a pick hook all around the edge.
2) Pop the speaker grill off.
3) There are two fasteners in front of the vents, two in front of the speaker and two behind the speaker. (You can see them through the windscreen.) That trim piece that holds the headlight sensor needs to be popped loose where it covers the vent's hinges.
4) I raised the vent at this point and then lifted the front edge up to access the plug. Unplug the vent. Pull the whole thing up in front and forward, out from under the trim covering the hinge. (Calling the vents the front.)
5) I used a T20 1/4 bit with a handle. Having the bit magnetized helps a great deal.
6) Installation, slide the hinge edge under that loose trim bit and settle them both down together, then lower the front edge.
2) Pop the speaker grill off.
3) There are two fasteners in front of the vents, two in front of the speaker and two behind the speaker. (You can see them through the windscreen.) That trim piece that holds the headlight sensor needs to be popped loose where it covers the vent's hinges.
4) I raised the vent at this point and then lifted the front edge up to access the plug. Unplug the vent. Pull the whole thing up in front and forward, out from under the trim covering the hinge. (Calling the vents the front.)
5) I used a T20 1/4 bit with a handle. Having the bit magnetized helps a great deal.
6) Installation, slide the hinge edge under that loose trim bit and settle them both down together, then lower the front edge.
#3
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thePest007
XF and XFR ( X250 )
10
03-12-2017 02:20 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)