Replacing Calipers?
#41
05-06-2017, 07:18 PM
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Just finished painting front calipers with G 2 red paint. I did three coats. Waiting for it to dry before I replace the anti-rattle springs which I left unpainted. These will be replaced with any brake job and probably not with the same color red anyway. I will do the rears on another day. I apportioned 40% for the rears. I converted the 3.5 fl ozs of paint and 1/2 fl oz of reactant to ccs and poured 40% of that into graduated tubes from my lab. I will use that for the rears which are much smaller. The remainder was enough to do three coats on the fronts and then some. Love the glossy sheen. Red calipers were a $1650 option. The G2 paint was $40. I bought two foam paint brushes, one about two inches wide for the wide areas and one quarter inch for the detail work. No hairs or brush marks. I don't see how anyone can get a good result using the tiny hair brush that is supplied. I jacked up the car using a floor jack and a grooved rubber disc both for the jack and jack stand using the pinch weld track behind the triangular marker. No damage to any plastic or metal peices.
Just one suggestion.
Jacking up using a rubber disc on the pinch weld is great on the XF, but it is not correct for the F-Type. The plastic sill is on the outer side of that pinch weld, and I don't think it's meant to bear any weight! On the front of the F-Type the head of the jack is meant to be placed on the flat metal surface just inboard of the pinch weld. For the rear of the car the head of the jack goes on the flat steel smack in the middle of the three large suspension bolts.
#42
05-06-2017, 08:56 PM
Veteran Member
Many years ago, I painted the calipers on my X100 with the Duplo kit. It looked great for a while, but the uneven surface tends to trap a lot of dirt that you just can't scrub very clean without removing the wheels (which was a pain in the ****). But you can get very nice results as a d.i.y. project.
#43
05-06-2017, 10:46 PM
Senior Member
My jack, if I tried to access the metal platform, would hit the side skirt and damage it. I also needed to put a jack stand in. The only solution was to use the metal railing with the grooved rubber discs. As it turns out, the inboard side of the rail is considerably lower than the outboard side with the plastic skirt. So what happens when you jack it is that the inboard half of the rubber disc takes the entire load and the outboard side just pressed in the plastic skirt a small amount. You can do this with your finger. There is no damage at all. The groove in the disc serves to keep it from moving. In the rear I will us the rail on the suspension bracket for the jack and the suspension flange for the jack stand. Thanks for the concern.
#44
05-07-2017, 12:18 AM
#45
05-07-2017, 01:50 AM
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Another little hint - sand off the rust on the wheel hubs (between the studs) and in the corresponding spots on the backs of the wheels, before you refit the wheels. I use steel wool and turps, works a treat. Otherwise you risk the wheels not sitting flat and causing all sorts of vibrations, especially when braking, often confused with the mythical "warped rotors".
#46
05-07-2017, 02:01 AM
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My jack, if I tried to access the metal platform, would hit the side skirt and damage it. I also needed to put a jack stand in. The only solution was to use the metal railing with the grooved rubber discs. As it turns out, the inboard side of the rail is considerably lower than the outboard side with the plastic skirt. So what happens when you jack it is that the inboard half of the rubber disc takes the entire load and the outboard side just pressed in the plastic skirt a small amount. You can do this with your finger. There is no damage at all. The groove in the disc serves to keep it from moving. In the rear I will us the rail on the suspension bracket for the jack and the suspension flange for the jack stand. Thanks for the concern.
I used grooved rubber pucks on my XFS and XFR for some time, but eventually they fell to pieces under the stress as all the weight was on the central groove, due to the depth of pinch points. The F-Type pinch point is nowhere near as deep so your pucks should last a bit longer.
#47
05-07-2017, 08:47 PM
Senior Member
#48
05-07-2017, 08:52 PM
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