Around 2 months ago, I was driving my 2016 F-Type R on the highway and encountered the "Performance Restricted" warning which I have been struggling with it ever since. Below are the codes it's throwing and the fixes we've tried so far, any help on tracking this down would be much appreciated!

Codes:

• P06A7: Engine Management System Performance.
• P2127: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'E' Circuit Low Input.
• P0122: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit Low Input.
• P0221: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'B' Circuit Range/Performance.
• P2135: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch 'A' / 'B' Voltage Correlation.
• P0237: Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit Low.

Attempted Fixes:

• Throttle Position Sensor / Throttle Body Replacement
• Accelerator Pedal Assembly Replacement
• ECM Replacement
• Wiring Checked

Other Clues:

• If left to rest for a couple days the car will drive and function fine for around 30 minutes before going into "Restricted Performance"
• Twice before this issue happened the infotainment and headlights flickered on/off very briefly
• Seemingly happens more when in Dynamic Mode
• When left in the sun for ~3 hours it acted up a lot more on start up, not being able to find idle and constantly revving
• Seemingly happens after going over bumps. Even after hitting a slight bump, the throttle cuts out for a brief second before coming back and then ~30 seconds later it goes into restricted performance.

I've had it at an independent shop and a dealer for the past 2 months. The dealership it was at was worthless, they kept the car for 6 weeks, only started it up twice, and their only idea was to try a throttle body replacement again. The independent shop has been great but none of their fixes have worked so far and we're running out of ideas. My next stop is to take it to a different dealership, which I've heard better reviews of, but it's not very close. Any ideas you guys have before I make that journey would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

Seems these cars are so extremely electrical/voltage/amperage sensitive

How fresh is the battery?


BEST !

RWS

 

Don' t mean to sound like a broken record here but for virtually all of the small issues I have had and they were two, it was battery related. My battery checked out fine, but my ECU was convinced it was not fine.

I then disconnected both the positive and negative cables and left them unconnected for about 30 minutes. Put everything back together and viola all was well and has been well.

My windows had to be reset but everything else in memory was ok.

 

I seem to recall getting this message when I knew there were some battery issues. It hasn't returned since I got a battery maintainer and use it religiously.

On the other hand, I just did a quick Google for this error. It seems that it's not uncommon for many Jaguar models. Causes ran from a pinhole leak in the hose attached to the Mass Air Flow sensor, to dirty air cleaners, bad/worn gaskets, even youtube video on the why and what of this error. With all the effort and time you've already put into this, it may still be worthwhile to do an internet search yourself.

Good luck.

 

The multiple issues are almost certainly related to a battery not putting out full voltage. This may sound odd, odd enough to cause people who are not aware of this (including dealer technicians) to resort to wholesale replacement of parts. And as you have experienced, the problem is not solved. The common denominator in all these apparent issues is the battery!

So, start by FULLY (yes, in capital letters) charging the existing battery and verifying the security of all connections, both at the battery itself and on the trunk floor and at the modules in the trunk. And perhaps, as GeorgeIII has suggested, removing the battery leads, touching them together, waiting a bit, and reconnecting. This permits all the modules to reset. And if the battery is more than 4 years old, please consider replacing it with a new and FULLY charged AGM battery.

 

Yes, fully charged battery but the comment about going over bumps can cause it leads me to believe you have a loose or corroded ground wire somewhere. Not only the ones on the battery and modules in the trunk, but the one to the transmission housing and other grounding spots under the hood. I've seen plenty of people chasing gremlins find a grounding strap that had corroded through or loosened and caused intermittent issues.

 

Exactly what I was thinking too.

 

Sounds like you have a heat soak issue or intermittent connection issue, my CRM (convertible roof module) in my DB9 would work perfect in the garage. Take it out in the summer it would cause me fits and throw codes, after 3 attempts at the dealer in their nice cool garage; I finally got a tech to come out in the sun with me, 5 minutes later he said my CRM was bad. Long story short, take it to your tech/ dealer let it run outside in the heat and have them run diagnostics. Also, wiring issues can be there and not found when the car is sitting still not running and then get intermittent connections while running because of vibrations.

 

Thank you everyone for the ideas! Unfortunately we tried the battery and it didn’t work. The mechanic has narrowed it down that it only happens when the car has gotten hot from running or being in the sun. I’ll take it to get scanned unless anyone has seen something like that before. Thanks!

 

Can the Tire pressure monitor system restrict performance due to improper tire pressure. I "think" there is some tie-in with regard to top speed and tire pressures.

 

I think the TPMS is a stand alone system and is not tied into anything else?
I have had bad sensors and it had zero effect on anything other than turning on the TPMS light on the dash. I have also exceeded the top speed speed limit that Jaguar set on my car and again had no errors.

I did recently find out that someone was successful in removing the entire TPMS from their car using a modified CCF. I did not know that was possible.
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Actually, assuming the TPMS is standalone is not quite right.

According to my owner's handbook (and the iGuide app), cars equipped with 20" wheels have an additional speed-based TPMS system (possibly due to the lower air volume? dunno).

Anyway, if driven above 155 mph (250 km/h), tires on 20" wheels are supposed to be inflated to higher PSI's. (The iGuide says 45 front and 41 rear, vs. the <155 MPH standard 37/37.) Supposedly, this additional software routine on the TPMS could throw a "Tire pressures too low for high speed" warning message.

I'm not saying that that's what is happening to the OP's situation, although a '16 R would probably have 20" wheels. I'm just saying that I recall getting that dreaded "Restricted Performance" message displayed. And while I said earlier that it was due to a low-battery incident, it may have actually occurred when I had a bolt puncture a tire, causing it to deflate while driving.

My age-related memory malfunctions at times, so I've been trying to research online to verify if low tire pressure could trigger that RP message. So far, I haven't found any references.... but that doesn't mean it could happen. The RP message could be like the Dashboard Idiot Lite on cars back in the '70's, triggered by who knows what.

(Full disclosure here, I had spent a career doing things like chasing down computer software that would throw bizarre error codes having nothing to do with the situation. As a result, I have firsthand knowledge that it's not uncommon for programmers to cut corners and key in whatever comes to mind... leaving it to be 'reved' out later.)

 

I have driven my 2014 XJR to 180 mph. There are no warnings from the TPMS or anything else.
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Thanks everyone again for the help. So we ended up replacing the:

• Throttle Body
• Accelerator Pedal
• ECM
• BCM
• Battery

And it worked!! ...for 3 days . I ended up stranded on the side of the highway with he Restricted Performance mode being one of the worst yet. The engine was running very rough, couldn't find idle, and couldn't get over 9mph. I had to tow it back to the independent shop , and my mechanic and I are now pulling our hair out looking for other options.

It is very interesting you guys bring up the TPMS though. I did leave out that I have had a slow leak in my back left tire for about a month or two before this started happening. I aired it up regularly but did occasionally get down to 30psi in that tire vs 38psi on the others... I'm going to go ahead and put on a set of new tires since I need to do that anyway and also to rule out this as an issue. I'm struggling to figure out how this could be linked back to the rough idle I'm getting but theEIger said, software can be weird.

Maybe the weirdest thing we're tracking down, is it does it mainly on left turns... I had this in the back of my mind, but thought I was maybe just losing it, but then my mechanic texted me that he was able to replicate this issue by accelerating while turning left... Not sure where that will lead us. As always, thanks again guys and any more ideas would be very much appreciated!

 

That is very interesting about turning left and accelerating? Maybe the engine/drive train is moving from the engine torque and placing a strain on a plug or wire harness somewhere?

Engine/transmission mounts all OK?
Any chance your mechanic can run some live data recordings? Maybe something will show up when the restricted performance occurs?
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