Hi Guys,

I have a MY14 F-Type Base. After a year of driving, I'm feeling like I'm missing the LSD of the F-Type S.

Anyone have an idea if any third party manufacturer makes a LSD for the F-Type? Quaife only make an LSD for the XKR, any idea if this will fit?

In other mods, I'm also changing from the stock P-Zeros (have 19 inches) to the Michelin PSS this weekend.

I'm also looking to get a tune for the F-Type from my local tuner (they've worked with a lot of top-end vehicles and have stellar reviews so I have confidence in them) and I'm considering installing a methanol injection kit (tuner really advocates them, planning on installing a top-end kit with plenty of fail-safes to prevent any damage to the engine). Anyone have any feedback on any of these mods?

I also installed the Quicksilver exhaust and added some J-pipes to cancel the drone (I've taken 3 videos: before, without J-pipes and with J-pipes, am planning on uploading the videos tonight).

Sorry for the long (and a bit fragmented post)! Looking forward to any of the feedback and ideas of you guys! Thanks in advance!

 

If you find a Quiffe that works, please let us know. The Torsen style lockers are far superior to the standard friction style based LSDs offered OEM. I would be tempted to swap out.

No data available yet from anyone who has completed a V6 tune. I hope to have mine done by the end of next week. I will post results when available. One or more of the sponsoring tuners on this site claim to have done V6 tunes, but refuse to publish the data logs.

You'll be quite pleased with the PSSs.

I personally would avoid anything that would involve sporadic injection of anything (N2O or CH3OH) as it would require running two separate tunes to optimize and safeguard the engine for the mix with and without the nitrous or methanol blast. I would think that engine damage would be easy to incur. I am not aware of a switchable dual tune ECU, but maybe the ECU and sensors are robust enough to detect and compensate for the change in fuel charge.

 

GKN is the manufacturer of the diffs in these cars, they are totally different to the Ford-based diffs in the earlier models so no, the Quaife is not an option.

GKN does produce a number of differnent LSD centers, so i'm sure it would be possible, however GKN is not really present in the aftermarket, so there is little information available. We really need to see one of the diffs in pieces and get some measurements to compare to other known GKN diffs, the BMW ones for example.

Some more info about the different diffs here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...ntials-134733/

In theory you could fit the diff from the V6S, although some software adjustments will be needed to accommodate the change in ratio.

A lot of older Jag engines have been fitted with water/meth injection, i'm not familiar with anyone whose done it with the newer AJ126/AJ133 though. In theory it would have the desired affect though.

It is also possible to simply load the V6S engine file to your V6 model, but a custom tune is going to get you more, check out Unhingd's thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...s-tune-153046/ the same will pretty much apply to the V6 as well.

 

I thought about this, and it would probably be the safe approach in avoiding engine warranty issues, but it really doesn't get you very much for street use. As far as I'm concerned, it's torque that really matters, and the differences between the two are close to round-off error. All the extra horses really get you are a little higher top-end.

The only reason for buying the S in my view would be the LSD, but again, on a street-only car, that really doesn't matter much either. I've owned a bunch of LSD-equipped cars, and I really can't remember it ever making a difference on the street. However, I wouldn't want to be on a road racing or autocross course without it.

 

+1. That extra 7 lb-ft of torque doesn't do much for the butt dyno.

 

Adding in electronic diffs has been a big topic of conversation in the Land Rover discovery world. I only know of one that was done successfully and it was a huge and expensive deal and complicated because it is tied in with the canbus and software.

It's a different diff in the etype but I suspect it might be a similar deal and not worth it.

 

I know I guy who is currently working on retrofitting the E-Diff from a 5.0L XKR to an earlier 4.2L XKR, I'll ask him where he is at with it, the same would apply to the F-Type and the Land Rovers.

 

That would be true if you needed to change the ring gear and pinion with the differential. I've rebuilt *many* Saab transaxles and with them the diff housing was the same across final drive ratios. Are the differentials known to be incompatible? It'd be a much simpler operation if you could disassemble the assembly, swap just the differential, then shim as necessary.

It may not matter as much on the street as on the track, but that doesn't make it inconsequential. It was a considered choice for me and ruled out the base model. In my opinion, even 340 HP with just two driven wheels should have some kind of LSD.

 

332lb-ft.

"Horsepower is top speed - Torque is how quickly you get there"

So it's the Torque that spins the wheels up.

 

Yep. And as a pro racedriver once told me: "Horsepower sell cars - Torque wins races"

 

So far i'm not aware of anyone who's opened up either a V6 or V6S diff so it's hard to say.

Plus the V6 runs 3.15:1 and the V6S is 3.31:1 so if you're looking for performance the ratio of the V6S is better. So i'd say programming is a better option than opening up the diffs and swapping gears.

From my point of view opening up a diff that's factory sealed is not a great option, and if it can be avoided then that's the way to go.

Another option could be fitting the E-Diff from the AWD V6S, which is also 3.31:1, would be a lot more work though...

 

Opening up the final drive is exactly what you'd need to do for a Quaiffe. I was thinking that if the differential portion itself was interchangeable in the same way, that'd be a straightforward option. Straightforward in the mechanical sense, in that a good transmission shop could do it. Reprogramming for a different final drive ration is much easier, in the technical sense, but requires specialty software. I can rebuild a transmission with conventional tools, and I've reprogrammed ECUs that have been reverse engineered (Subaru, using ROmRaider) and open source ones (Megasquirt), but couldn't do anything with my Volvo.

It's all speculation for me though. I deliberately avoided the open diff when I ordered the car. I considered a Quaiffe for the Volvo, but decided to get the F-Type instead.

 

Swapping complete diffs without opening them up and then a few keystrokes of programming is a way better option IMHO.

I have a Quaife in my XJR, it's been done twice now because the 1st guy botched it, and that's the reason why I say if you can avoid breaking the factory seal, then that's the way to go.

The programming is easy to sort out if you know the right people.

 

The manuals are all 3.31. Anyone have a line on an LSD? I saw one on ebay but dude didn't have enough information for me to pull the trigger and I don't trust EPC's. Without knowing 100% I just can't do it.

 

Now that is interesting...

Now that I check there is a different part number for the LSD diff depending on manual or automatic too... I wonder why...

OK here are the part numbers which might help with your search:

Automatic, LSD, T2R4000 or EX53-4A213-MA
Manual, LSD, T2P1783 (I don't know the long part number)

Good luck

 

And of course it would be my luck that this part number is the beginning of the part number for a 'Datsun Accelerator Pedal Spring'... Thanks a bunch, regardless. At least now I can find it.

 

Hills Motors - a specialist breakers in the UK - have a V6S breaking at the moment. They are not cheap - £1000 for the diff - and seem to be prepared to sit on it rather than drop the price. But, if you want to try retrofitting an LSD to the base, then this is probably the cheapest way.

 

Could someone please translate this into American English?

 

In context, it seems to mean auto salvage specialist. "breaking"="parting out"

 

Ah, a junk yard.