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I searched this topic but didn't seem to get much feedback.
Has it been documented if the revised "seamless" coolant y pipes are seeming to hold up much longer than the original designs?
Curious to see what kind of mileage owners are getting out of the revised design.
A bit too early to tell.
AFAIK the new design came out in 2018 whereas the old original design dates back to 2009 when the AJ133 first came out, so four years max for the new design vs 13 years for the old to fail.
Most failures of the old design seem to be after the seven/eight year mark so way too early to tell for sure if the new design is going to last longer but logic suggests it's gotta be better.
If anyone is replacing these plastic pipes I would seriously look into getting the lifetime aftermarket Aluminum versions.
Big thread here; Al. Cooling Pipes
Now what has happened very recently is there has a been a massive price drop and both pipes are now only $65! Yes cheaper than the crappy sure to fail Jaguar made plastic junk! Replacement Al. Cooling Pipes
I am just mad because I paid over $200 for a set from the same vendor some time ago!
Be sure and use the Al. transfer tube from the water pump to the oil cooler brick too. It's only about $15. We are still waiting but there have been rumors from the vendor that the rear water manifold is in the works.
One thing to note is they fit both the 3.0 and 5.0 SC engines BUT this won't fit the NA 5.0 engine.
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If anyone is replacing these plastic pipes I would seriously look into getting the lifetime aftermarket Aluminum versions.
Big thread here; Al. Cooling Pipes
Now what has happened very recently is there has a been a massive price drop and both pipes are now only $65! Yes cheaper than the crappy sure to fail Jaguar made plastic junk! Replacement Al. Cooling Pipes
I am just mad because I paid over $200 for a set from the same vendor some time ago!
Be sure and use the Al. transfer tube from the water pump to the oil cooler brick too. It's only about $15. We are still waiting but there have been rumors from the vendor that the rear water manifold is in the works.
One thing to note is they fit both the 3.0 and 5.0 SC engines BUT this won't fit the NA 5.0 engine.
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That is very affordable and a no-brainer for anyone looking to replace these coolant pipes.
Thank you very much for posting this. I have a MY2017, v-6, manual transmission, built in late 2016. It had the flanged plastic pipes. In Jan. 2022, I worked with my dealer to get these pipes (and the water pump because the oe would not work with the new design pipes) replaced under warranty. I was really concerned about leakage and the resulting damage to engine internals. Fortunately, I was able to get the new, solid, but yes, plastic units installed under warranty. They have been in now less than a year. I live in Wisconsin, have left the engine cover on, but bring the car in the garage and raise the hood/bonnet to cool after driving it. I will be ordering a set of these, as well as that verified pump to oil cooler brick transfer tube. A mystery to me why a mfg would use plastic to conduct HOT LIQUID in a location subject to so much heat and vibration and in a form factor with SEAMS!
I assume there’s already a lot of aluminum in the coolant loop, so corrosion isn’t a concern? (I see the recommended coolant has corrosion inhibitors, and is supposed to be good for 5+ years.)
As an engineer, I like to know that a replacement product doesn’t have new failure modes that the original doesn’t have. But I’m no expert on engine internals, though I know it’s an aluminum block.
To share my experience with the Y pipe.
I bought my 2015 V6S used from an owner last year who had papers of his original Y-pipes being replaced to the newer seamless ones back in late 2018. I had the car for almost an exact year before those gave out on me at the base where it inserts into the block. I replaced them with the aluminum Y-pipe bout a month ago. So in regards to how long they last.. 4 years in my case. it was roughly about 45k miles in those 4 years.
To share my experience with the Y pipe.
I bought my 2015 V6S used from an owner last year who had papers of his original Y-pipes being replaced to the newer seamless ones back in late 2018. I had the car for almost an exact year before those gave out on me at the base where it inserts into the block. I replaced them with the aluminum Y-pipe bout a month ago. So in regards to how long they last.. 4 years in my case. it was roughly about 45k miles in those 4 years.
Thank you for your feedback. This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm disappointed to hear how short that cycle was, but not that surprised either.
To add a bit we have only has these Al. parts available for maybe a year or two. It is possible that some problem might emerge? But dozens have been installed so far and not a single complaint yet.
I will gladly take my chances with solid metal construction over crappy sure to fail plastic! Especially at $63 for the set!
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If anyone is replacing these plastic pipes I would seriously look into getting the lifetime aftermarket Aluminum versions.
Big thread here; Al. Cooling Pipes
Now what has happened very recently is there has a been a massive price drop and both pipes are now only $65! Yes cheaper than the crappy sure to fail Jaguar made plastic junk! Replacement Al. Cooling Pipes
I am just mad because I paid over $200 for a set from the same vendor some time ago!
Be sure and use the Al. transfer tube from the water pump to the oil cooler brick too. It's only about $15. We are still waiting but there have been rumors from the vendor that the rear water manifold is in the works.
One thing to note is they fit both the 3.0 and 5.0 SC engines BUT this won't fit the NA 5.0 engine.
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got to thinking, and wondering if these aluminum pipes will mate up with the new water pump that I now have. The original WP would not work with the new solid pipes, and maybe not with the aluminum version if they are designed to fit the oe pump.
I do think that is a VERY nice set with all the updated parts in one place. So very convenient. We don't see many thermostat problems but your in there anyway so it wouldn't be a bad idea at all.
Note that set of parts contains a few more items I have not mentioned?
Problems in the JLR cooling system that have been fixed and/or updated.
1. Water Pump- Use one with a part number that ends in 3909. JLR have released at least 5 or more versions of this WP so far. I don't know why they can't get it right? They all mount the same and are interchangeable.
2. The 2 large plastic cooling pipes in the front of the engine which we now have in Aluminum.
3. The water transfer tube between the back of the WP and the oil cooler brick. Factory junk plastic - aftermarket lifetime Aluminum.
4. There is a failure prone plastic (yes again!) push-lock tube fitting on the WP body connecting a small cooling hose. In that kit they have included the brass aftermarket part.
Here is the WP with the fitting marked;
The brass elbow replacement. Yes it still has a plastic push-lock but at least the tube itself is now brass instead of plastic!
They even include the replacement Copper bleed screw which again replaces the factory failure prone plastic version. This is not talked about much and I have not purchased this yet as I don't bleed the coolant very often so I have not had any troubles with it. We have had a number of people getting leaks from the factory plastic part.
Note that the thread is a M10X1.0 thread and is apparently been used for several decades on BMW's.
Here is a thread with alternate part numbers as this small bleeder screw is supplied by at least 4 or 5 vendors in plastic, brass or Anodized Aluminum.
I am just mad because I paid over $200 for a set from the same vendor some time ago!
Be sure and use the Al. transfer tube from the water pump to the oil cooler brick too. It's only about $15. We are still waiting but there have been rumors from the vendor that the rear water manifold is in the works.
same here...I think I paid around $250 when they initially came out. parts still sitting in the garage.
I do think that is a VERY nice set with all the updated parts in one place. So very convenient. We don't see many thermostat problems but your in there anyway so it wouldn't be a bad idea at all.
Note that set of parts contains a few more items I have not mentioned?
Problems in the JLR cooling system that have been fixed and/or updated.
1. Water Pump- Use one with a part number that ends in 3909. JLR have released at least 5 or more versions of this WP so far. I don't know why they can't get it right? They all mount the same and are interchangeable.
2. The 2 large plastic cooling pipes in the front of the engine which we now have in Aluminum.
3. The water transfer tube between the back of the WP and the oil cooler brick. Factory junk plastic - aftermarket lifetime Aluminum.
4. There is a failure prone plastic (yes again!) push-lock tube fitting on the WP body connecting a small cooling hose. In that kit they have included the brass aftermarket part.
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Thanks for all the info. Just pulled the trigger on the kit, waiting for it to be clobbered with Government tax when it arrives in the UK 😤 Our car was built May 2015 and it's been tip-top with no issue, but for preventative measures, Aluminium (Alloooominum) seems the robust choice.
I wasn't aware of an actual WP issue with these engines?
I believe the small bore pipes from Expansion tank forward are prone to going brittle too?
Just need to find a solid coupler for the TVS1900 SC (Eaton do one for the V6 not the V8 form my research), and we should be good for years.
Yes the WP is almost a guaranteed failure. On my 2014 XJR it was replaced around 25K miles under factory CPO warranty. I currently have around 55K miles on the #3909 replacement so I hope the WP was improved somehow?
Do some reading as we have had some negative reports back about going to the solid coupler and several guys have gone back to the factory spring cushioned part. Not saying it will cause problems but for a number of years that was a common upgrade on any TVS blower. But the CTS-V guys are also seeing this. I looked for the thread and can't find it right now. Yes they have them for the V-8 as well.
Yes you are correct about those plastic tubes too. The only good thing about those is they are visible and very easy to change as it sits on top of the engine and little to nothing needs to be removed to replace it. So I don't post about those as it will be real obvious what's wrong. Good idea to change them out now BEFORE they start to leak! Plus fairly low cost too.
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I recently experienced a failure of the "Y-pipe". My gripe is - it cost me a track day at COTA (~$800) because it failed on the first few laps...not to mention having to arrange transport, fetch a trailer, haul the car home, and spend a lot of time replacing the crappy pipe....arrggghhh!!! At least I have a lift and monster set of tools...otherwise, it would've been several thousand $$$ at JLR...
As an engineer myself, I truly respect much of the engineering design that went into the F-Type. However, this particular design deficiency (hard plastic !*#&@^ pipes with o-rings - and extremely difficult to access) is total BS! It strikes me as an even more severe "oversight" or "compromise" or "shortcut" than the stupid intake air filters that require the car to be lifted and some 30+ fasteners removed to replace a freaking air filter!). Or the fact that it takes running the car 10-15 minutes, then letting is set for 15-30 minutes just to CHECK THE OIL! Hmmm...seems like a "dip stick" worked pretty good....
That said, I'm most furious that this particular failure (broken plastic coolant pipes on JLR V8 engines) is "common" when you "googlie" it. My F-Type is a 2016 with less than 40k miles. If it simply blew a pinhole in one of the standard rubber hoses, no big deal. But having a hard plastic pipe, with simple o-rings, shoved into the block, break and spray coolant all over the engine compartment is ludicrous. Worse, in order to repair this "common" failure, you have to remove the engine covers, the intercooler, the air pipes and throttle body, the supercharger belt, the "symposer" and all the wiring at the back of the engine, and the supercharger and intakes just to get to the 2 freaking screws holding the STUPID PLASTIC COOLANT PIPE in the block. Replace it with a $50 ALUMINUM PIPE and reverse the process (with new gaskets and sealants and fluids and proper torques...) and then the best part........after it's all put back together (except the engine covers)...you can finally "pressure test" the coolant system and HOPE AND PRAY it's all sealed, or rinse and repeat...
Sorry for the "bitter" post, but I'm very frustrated by this inadequacy in the JLR design.
Other than that, I still LOVE the F-Type!!!
Last edited by allaboutfast; 08-03-2023 at 01:45 PM.
Reason: Typo
Just to add to the tally, I have a 2018 R with the revised seamless pipes and have not had any problems. I purchased an aluminum set just in case but, fingers crossed, won’t have to use them.
12-27-2022, 10:49 PM
Revised coolant y pipe longevity?
