>>Rolling Fenders- are the F-Type rear fenders aluminum?
#1
>>Rolling Fenders- are the F-Type rear fenders aluminum?
Has anyone here rolled the rear fenders on an F-Type?
If not, has anyone done bodywork on the rear quarter panels? I assume the rear fenders are aluminum, but I want to be certain before I try to roll the fenders.
I own an Eastwood fender roller and have done a few other cars to clear wide tires (mostly AFTER the tires have caught the lip and bent the fender).
Also, the inner fenders seem to be something other than the typical plastic... they feel and look almost like a fibrous material (which wouldn't bend too easily). I don't want to break the inner fender lips by folding the outer fender lip upwards on top of them.
My car doesn't rub, but I am running 17mm spacers and want to lower the car. I believe Unhingd said that lowered with 15mm doesn't rub, but it will with 17mm spacers. I could easily gain 6-8mm at the rear by rolling the fenders... but I would rather move cautiously and do things right the first time
Comments are appreciated
Thanks,
Jay
If not, has anyone done bodywork on the rear quarter panels? I assume the rear fenders are aluminum, but I want to be certain before I try to roll the fenders.
I own an Eastwood fender roller and have done a few other cars to clear wide tires (mostly AFTER the tires have caught the lip and bent the fender).
Also, the inner fenders seem to be something other than the typical plastic... they feel and look almost like a fibrous material (which wouldn't bend too easily). I don't want to break the inner fender lips by folding the outer fender lip upwards on top of them.
My car doesn't rub, but I am running 17mm spacers and want to lower the car. I believe Unhingd said that lowered with 15mm doesn't rub, but it will with 17mm spacers. I could easily gain 6-8mm at the rear by rolling the fenders... but I would rather move cautiously and do things right the first time
Comments are appreciated
Thanks,
Jay
#2
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Tork Monster (09-27-2018)
#3
I had mine trimmed (cut) about 1/4” on the rears. I’m running 17mm spacers with oem 20” Tornadoes, Michelin PS4s, and VAP lowering springs. My last Ftype (lease) with 15mm spacers, VAP springs, and PS4s rubbed a little on big compressions, so I removed spacers on rears... but the new setup with the rear fenders trimmed has had no rubbing. They cut 1/4”, smoothed it and used touch up paint (but you can’t see it unless you lay on your back against the wheel, anyway).
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Tork Monster (09-28-2018)
#4
You sound handy since you've rolled fenders. Rather than rolling, I would shave the fenders with a Dremel and go over it with some touch up paint after. It's aluminum, so no need to worry about rust issues, and on the flip side, you also don't have to worry about any paint cracking.
I'm lowered on Eibach springs and am running a pretty aggressive wheel set up (more aggressive than Tornado's with 15mm spacers) and was rubbing on the plastic piece on the rear fender. Super easy to shave.
I'm lowered on Eibach springs and am running a pretty aggressive wheel set up (more aggressive than Tornado's with 15mm spacers) and was rubbing on the plastic piece on the rear fender. Super easy to shave.
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Tork Monster (09-28-2018)
#5
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Has anyone here rolled the rear fenders on an F-Type?
If not, has anyone done bodywork on the rear quarter panels? I assume the rear fenders are aluminum, but I want to be certain before I try to roll the fenders.
I own an Eastwood fender roller and have done a few other cars to clear wide tires (mostly AFTER the tires have caught the lip and bent the fender).
Also, the inner fenders seem to be something other than the typical plastic... they feel and look almost like a fibrous material (which wouldn't bend too easily). I don't want to break the inner fender lips by folding the outer fender lip upwards on top of them.
My car doesn't rub, but I am running 17mm spacers and want to lower the car. I believe Unhingd said that lowered with 15mm doesn't rub, but it will with 17mm spacers. I could easily gain 6-8mm at the rear by rolling the fenders... but I would rather move cautiously and do things right the first time
Comments are appreciated
Thanks,
Jay
If not, has anyone done bodywork on the rear quarter panels? I assume the rear fenders are aluminum, but I want to be certain before I try to roll the fenders.
I own an Eastwood fender roller and have done a few other cars to clear wide tires (mostly AFTER the tires have caught the lip and bent the fender).
Also, the inner fenders seem to be something other than the typical plastic... they feel and look almost like a fibrous material (which wouldn't bend too easily). I don't want to break the inner fender lips by folding the outer fender lip upwards on top of them.
My car doesn't rub, but I am running 17mm spacers and want to lower the car. I believe Unhingd said that lowered with 15mm doesn't rub, but it will with 17mm spacers. I could easily gain 6-8mm at the rear by rolling the fenders... but I would rather move cautiously and do things right the first time
Comments are appreciated
Thanks,
Jay
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Tork Monster (09-28-2018)
#6
There are videos of "the making of the Jaguar F-Type" out there that show raw, unpainted rear sections and it's easily apparent that they are aluminum. Now the first thing to be aware of is that manipulation of aluminum is VERY different than working non-aluminum parts that you typically find on pretty much EVERY other car so experience on a non-aluminum car would not translate well to our vehicles. You can see this in the work that the dent guys do on these. Some dent guys are great on "most" cars but they SUCK EGGS when it comes to aluminum vehicles.
I think I may follow the other suggestions here and cut the lip if I proceed at all. My concern with cutting with a dremel or die grinder is the heat generated... aluminum transfers heat like mad and I could end up damaging the adjacent paint. It could cost less in the long run to just buy new wheels with different offsets, than to damage the fender
I needed an excuse anyway.
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ndabunka (09-28-2018)
#7
Thanks- I understand aluminum is very different, especially heat-treated aluminum. It can crack easily if bent improperly.
I think I may follow the other suggestions here and cut the lip if I proceed at all. My concern with cutting with a dremel or die grinder is the heat generated... aluminum transfers heat like mad and I could end up damaging the adjacent paint. It could cost less in the long run to just buy new wheels with different offsets, than to damage the fender
I needed an excuse anyway.
I think I may follow the other suggestions here and cut the lip if I proceed at all. My concern with cutting with a dremel or die grinder is the heat generated... aluminum transfers heat like mad and I could end up damaging the adjacent paint. It could cost less in the long run to just buy new wheels with different offsets, than to damage the fender
I needed an excuse anyway.
If you're worried about heat, hit it with a temp gun periodically.
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Tork Monster (09-28-2018)
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#8
I work with aluminum everyday restoring WW II aircraft. We do a lot of fabrication with aluminum and though the nature of the processes are beyond the scope of this site, I’ll just confirm what Tork Master mentioned- aluminum is not as tolerant to being shaped as steel, and will crack easily if done incorrectly. Even though the aluminum sheets used during the stamping process were the originally in annealed (soft) condition, the forming process causes them to work harden. Aluminum also age hardens in time after being worked. Don’t think aluminum doesn’t, corrode it’s actually very active. Start removing the paint with a die grinder and you have exposed the metal to road salts, corrosive environmental conditions and good old oxygen, which is trying to convert the metal to aluminum oxide. Aircraft aluminum skins actually have a layer of pure aluminum plated over the aluminum alloy to serve as a sacrificial layer against corrosion. The metal our cars are made of do not have this, so the only protection the metal has is special etching,primers and paints.
The following 2 users liked this post by SJones:
Jaggyx (09-29-2018),
Tork Monster (09-28-2018)
#9
I work with aluminum everyday restoring WW II aircraft. We do a lot of fabrication with aluminum and though the nature of the processes are beyond the scope of this site, I’ll just confirm what Tork Master mentioned- aluminum is not as tolerant to being shaped as steel, and will crack easily if done incorrectly. Even though the aluminum sheets used during the stamping process were the originally in annealed (soft) condition, the forming process causes them to work harden. Aluminum also age hardens in time after being worked. Don’t think aluminum doesn’t, corrode it’s actually very active. Start removing the paint with a die grinder and you have exposed the metal to road salts, corrosive environmental conditions and good old oxygen, which is trying to convert the metal to aluminum oxide. Aircraft aluminum skins actually have a layer of pure aluminum plated over the aluminum alloy to serve as a sacrificial layer against corrosion. The metal our cars are made of do not have this, so the only protection the metal has is special etching,primers and paints.
I have spent my life in manufacturing, but mostly in stainless & carbon steel... aluminum is a completely different animal.
#10
The following 2 users liked this post by Burt Gummer:
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Tork Monster (09-30-2018)
#11
#13
#15
I have standard sizes front and back - Michelin pilot sport 4S on oem 20” tornado rims (255/35 ZR 20 front and 295/30 ZR 20 on rear)
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