I am looking at options to replace the OEM pads and rotors on my F Type R with Super Performance brakes (380mm/376mm). I have read through numerous threads on pad and rotor options, but it appears supply chain issues and vendor changes may have rendered some of the recommendations obsolete. Here are my objectives:

Use Case - Spirited street driving, occasional drag racing, infrequent track day use (well within the limits of the car/driver)
Rotors - Prefer cross-drilled. This is just for aesthetics, not performance-driven. I have heard some complaints of additional noise from slotted rotors for street use. Not looking for ultimate performance/weight reduction, so no need for 2-piece rotors.
Pads - Have read very good things about Porterfield R4-S for street use (less dust, easier to modulate at low speed). Not sure about track use, however. Is there a better option for mixed street/track use with similar benefits to the R4-S pads?

My primary focus is street driving. I am willing to compromise some track day performance to maintain better everyday performance, but don't want to compromise safety. What are the recommendations for currently available rotors and pads?

 

I would concur on the Porterfeld pads. Lower brake dust, similar OEM performance, not sure about the track as I've heard they don't grip quite as well as OEM, however very close. I know a lot of people like the EBC brake pads for track use (red stuff I believe), but will let others comments on that if they have personal experience.

 

It's highly track dependent. That being said, the OEM components are actually very good. They won't handle large tracks like CoTA or Road America where the speeds are very high, but for smaller Midwest tracks, they are more than enough.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...issues-234498/

 

Here is my new setup using Hawk pads...

 

I'll be the rain on the parade and ask the OP if he's (she's) financially and mentally prepared to ball up the car, or blow up the engine. This can and does happen at HPDE events, seen it happen to others, and had it happen to me. Sometimes it's the owners fault and sometimes not. Just make sure that you're okay with potentially writing off the car, unless of course you have trackday insurance, but even if so, be sure to read the fine print. Such activities really do strongly suggest a second car.

Oh and regardless of car, I say avoid drilled rotors, as they're prone to cracking or even breaking. It's why one car ended up going into the wall at one of the events I was at.

 

No worries. I didn't buy the car to drive in parades or in the rain. I bought my F Type for the performance capabilities and with the express intent to occasionally enjoy that performance in a controlled environment at the track. I understand the risks involved with modifying my car and participating in track days, drag racing, etc. I feel safer on track than on the street with a bunch of distracted drivers on their cell phones.

 

If you can sit tight for a couple of weeks, we will be announcing a new 2-piece setup that I think you will find very appealing (and reasonably priced.)

 

Very much looking forward to an update!

 

are Ftypes that unreliable that an occasional track day would have you terrified and thinking about writing off the car? Lol

 

**** happens, even if YOU are being careful. I blew an engine at a track day in my Audi TT, dropped an exhaust valve. Track Day insurance is a thing, and is recommended.

 

I don't have an F-type but do have a pulleyed and tuned XKR and used to go to the track several times per year. Four or five years ago I replaced my terribly shimmying rotors with a set of drilled and slotted rotors from R1 concepts and have been extremely happy with them. They look great, they stop smoothly and true, and probably have over 40,000 miles on them by now. They were very reasonably priced, and their customer service was first rate. If was the Geomet series. If they have them for the F-type, I would highly recommend them.

 

The brake rotors on an F-Type R are the exact same rotors as on a 2010 XKR or XFR - 380 mm front and 376 mm rear - so no need to pay any extra "F-Type tax" for them.
I suspect R1 Concepts charge the same price for F-Type R ones as they do for XKR or XFR ones but you have been warned just in case they do charge an F-Type tax!
Front calipers and pads are exactly the same as well but the rears are different due to the different parking brake set-ups.

 

F-type tax 😆. Thanks for the info!

 

Agree 100%.

Normal insurance won't insure track events in most/many cases and if you have an off....it gets super expensive fast....agreed upon value issues, the armco is billed by the foot (it is not cheap...labor...) and you can trash 40 feet easilly....etc.

But, I plan to get the new VAP rotors. I have the porterfield pads waiting and new sensors...

 

380mm's for fronts I assume.
In the rear any chance you will have 326mm's for sale? (type S standard size)....the rear has the parking brake responsibility too....so I fully understand if you don't do rears.

Thank you!!!!

jb

 

VAP’s initial plan was 380/376mm (“super performance brakes”). I hope they have 326mm rears available in a few years when I’m due for brakes again, but they didn’t mention that in their initial plans.

 

You can always upgrade the rears from 326 to 376, I did exactly that a few years ago and it's bolt off/bolt on plug and play. They also look a lot better than the relatively puny looking 326s.
The parts are not all that expensive either, a fair bit less than the front 380 mm brake parts, but still not cheap.
The hard part is finding good used or new parts outside of a dealership, I got lucky and found a set of new rear calipers and brackets on Fleabay for a fraction of the dealership price. Also the electric parking brake motors can be swapped straight over from the old calipers to the new so you don't need the new calipers to already come with those motors.
If I can do it then anyone with basic hand tools can do it!

 

Thanks.

I agree fully that the 376's would look cooler by far.

For my "street" use the rear's at 326mm are so much lighter than the 376 ones that I am actually not sure the bigger rears help you much. The fronts do most of the stopping... They may even hurt performance. My main goal is to minimize unsprung weight, so if they don't sell the 326 with the aluminum hat I may just stay stock.

Here are the data just using brembo as an OEM replacement option - other brands are likely similar if not almost exactly the same weight:

380 mm front stock rotors:
17.7 kg





376 rear rotor stock weight:
11.3 kg






326 rear rotor weight:

7kg




No idea what the difference in the calipers is - probably not much and definitely not in the favor of the larger rotor...


So the smaller units are 4.3 kg lighter each or 9.48 lbs lighter each.

Went looking for girodisc rear 2 piece rotors in ~376 mm (992 GT3ish size) - cannot find any data but 7kg for the 326 stock units is pretty light and they are pretty cheap to replace...would be impressed if girodisc was under 7 kg.

Am guessing the front girodiscs save 7-12 lbs over the stock units but perhaps even more, who knows. Each. So for me, the fronts are a must do upgrade. The rears are just the part that is not clear. I don't want to mess too much with the parking brake issues and aluminum hats...unless it just works.

I had girodiscs before and they are amazingly well made rotors. I am a big fan and if VAP did Girodisc units, we are all going to benefit big time.

 

The 326/25 and 376 rear calipers are very very similar but not the same and not interchangeable, the 376 are a bee's wotsit bigger. Same with the pads.
As for the weight again the 376 calipers would be a gnat's whisker heavier, so little it would make zero difference to the handling.

 

Thanks - the calipers are the same but the rotors are 9.5 lbs heavier for the 376...that is a lot. Wonder how much of that 9.5 lbs the girodiscs will get back.