My 2014 V8 S has me stumped. Hoping for some advice before I take it to the dealer $$$$. Bought the car about a year ago and it has 49,xxx miles on it. Only work I have done is change oil, and I bought another key at my Omaha, NE dealer. $$$

Issue started a few weeks ago when it ran really rough after starting it. Within a minute it smoothed out and was fine. I suspected bad gas so I filled it and put some injector cleaner in it. A week later I had it an hour out of town, cruise set on 70mph, and it shut off. No sputtering or drama, just off. Dash lights, radio, climate fan all stayed on. I restarted it and drove a mile, slowed down for some rough railroad tracks and it fell on it's face accelerating, and smoothed back out after a few seconds. I turned around to head home and it was fine all the way home. Half way home I did get a CEL. P2180 system rich bank 2, U0405 cruise control(?), P219C Cylinder 1 air/fuel imbalance. So I assumed I had a bad injector or maybe a coil. But, I've never seen a single injector or coil cause a stall at highway speeds.

I pulled the air filters out and they look new. MAF sensors are super clean like you could eat off of them. I will spray them with MAF cleaner anyway. Disconnected battery over night, reconnected it and ensured connections were solid. Started it up and now I have a barrage of codes.
P0300, P0304, P0306 all indicate misfires, which are obvious listening to it after a cold start.
P21A2 indicates same air/fuel imbalance I got earlier (P219C) but with cylinder 7 instead of 1. Would be nice to know where cylinder 7 is as this code refers to it. Is it on the same bank as 1? Because Ford & DIN naming call out cylinder 7 on the opposite bank, but ISO & SAE call cylinder 7 on the same bank.
P00BD, there should be an extension number after this code for more detail and Torque is not giving me that or I don't know how. This could indicate MAF issues but I read elsewhere MAF readings aren't used during warm up?
P0506 low RPM, which as it tries to idle at start, it barely runs and RPMs are quite low.

I also ran a vehicle test in Torque and the only error showing is MID: $82 TID:$a3 Fuel system monitor bank 2 Min: 0.87lambda Max: 1.099lambda Current: 1.106lambda. Bank 2 coincides with the P2180 code from before.

Lots of forum posts on rough idle at start, but the addition of random stalls at speed aren't mentioned anywhere. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Any time weird things happen, we always recommend putting the battery on a charger to be sure it's 100% charged. I'm hoping you don't still have the original battery? I suspect this isn't the issue, but it's an important place to start, as these cars can be very sensitive to battery voltage.

FYI, here's my Dropbox repository, where I've collected F-type docs over the years - take what you like. Somewhere, I recall seeing the V8 cylinder numbers, but I haven't found that. I did find reference to DIN numbering for the V6, in the complex 'F-type V6 Repair Manual.pdf'.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wgv3e86yc...glFoM3xOa?dl=0

 

Thanks for the response and the link.
The battery says 2-23-2020 so just over 3 years old plus shelf time. It tests out at 12.4v in circuit with engine off. I put a trickle charger on it and I'll try firing it up again tonight.
Here is the firing order chart I found on a search.

 

I had a 2021 battery go bad on my. It would cut out all 12V electronics (but keep running) for a second and them pop back to life. Eventually it just died entirely and read 3.5 v on the battery, and it would not take a charge. Got a new battery (and a battery tender) and all was "fixed".

 

I had it on a trickle charge all of yesterday and today. Battery now tests at 12.8V in circuit engine off. My charger showed green also. Engine still spits and sputters on startup. Any ideas on what to try next?

 

Any engine codes?

Unfortunately it starts pointing toward a partially plugged injector - or maybe, a "lucky" tank of bad gas.

 

My first post has the original set of codes. Here is what is showing after reconnecting battery and charging it.

P0300
P0304
P0306
P21A2
P00BD
P0506

Also still seeing this under tests.



Would a bad injector really cause the engine to shut off suddenly while cruising down the road 3 times now? It's a V8. Seems like it would go to running on 7.

 

I think I finally got this figured out. Posting my findings here in case this is helpful to someone in the future.
Apparently the previous owner changed the intake from stock to an aftermarket aluminum pipe with rubber boot setup. The rubber Y pipe coming out of the throttle body and splitting toward the aluminum pipes was leaking air. Of course the ECU was unable to make good decisions on air/fuel mixture with that leak. I guess that after 30-45 seconds of sounding like a diesel at startup, it was giving up on making decisions and using last known good values to keep the engine running. The random stalling at stop signs and cruising down the road still doesn't seem like a symptom that would stem from a leaking intake, but it sure did. With the leak sealed up, the engine starts and runs properly and no random stalls. Here is an intake I found online that looks a lot like mine.
Thanks to those who responded to this thread.