So....
#1
#4
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Wellll...................I've been doing a fair amount of reading and really haven't run into no kiddin' "it happened to me" incidents.
Was hoping for some first hand accounts of this.
I'm not a Professional Sceptic, but I do wonder a bit as to how many actual instances of this there have been.
Was hoping for some first hand accounts of this.
I'm not a Professional Sceptic, but I do wonder a bit as to how many actual instances of this there have been.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Not the dreaded Y-pipe or front cross-over pipe, not even the rear heater pipe, but I twice had an expansion tank pipe (one of the two thin ones at the engine end) crack and spray coolant all the place. The coolant level in the expansion tank dropped by about 2 litres/quarts but then stopped dropping, the "low coolant" warning came up on the dash, but the temp gauge readout didn't budge at all let alone go up. Both times I (slowly and carefully) drove the remaining mile or so back to my garage without a problem. Replaced the offending pipe with a new one some four years ago now and zero problems since.
My guess is that because the leak was coming from a relatively high point on the engine and it was from a small split in a small pipe the coolant loss was reasonably slow and not bad enough to cause any over-heating.
My guess is that because the leak was coming from a relatively high point on the engine and it was from a small split in a small pipe the coolant loss was reasonably slow and not bad enough to cause any over-heating.
#6
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Yes the temperature gauge is more accurately described as an "indicator". It's been purposely damped to not move much. So it's stays in the center for a wide range of temperatures as Jaguar had too many people bringing in their cars because the temperature gauge was moving around.
If your serious and you should be I use Torque Pro with my old phone. It allows you to read the actual temperature in real time. Keep reading because it's very obvious that plastic cooling pipes are a major problem. I would even say it's the most common problem too.
Still very glad for the aftermarket Aluminum cooling pipes. So we can fix it and for not much money it turns out.
But again DO NOT drive the car when it over heats!! I can't emphasize this enough. Many posts of driving to the next exit or home but the risk is great that you will fry the engine.
.
.
.
If your serious and you should be I use Torque Pro with my old phone. It allows you to read the actual temperature in real time. Keep reading because it's very obvious that plastic cooling pipes are a major problem. I would even say it's the most common problem too.
Still very glad for the aftermarket Aluminum cooling pipes. So we can fix it and for not much money it turns out.
But again DO NOT drive the car when it over heats!! I can't emphasize this enough. Many posts of driving to the next exit or home but the risk is great that you will fry the engine.
.
.
.
#7
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I've had coolant pipe fail on me. Thankfully wasn't as dramatic as the above.
I gave the car a bit of stick before letting if fully warm up (just a WOT pull to 70 or so).
At the next stoplight, I thought I smelled a hint of coolant.
I kept an eye on coolant levels over the next few days and sure enough was losing a bit on each drive.
I kept it topped off and got the car to a dealership for a warranty repair.
I gave the car a bit of stick before letting if fully warm up (just a WOT pull to 70 or so).
At the next stoplight, I thought I smelled a hint of coolant.
I kept an eye on coolant levels over the next few days and sure enough was losing a bit on each drive.
I kept it topped off and got the car to a dealership for a warranty repair.
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#8
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Had it go on my MY17 F-Pace (at about 4 years and 9 months). There was a slight smell of coolant at a light, and I chose to go home and switch cars. Made an appointment and didn't press my luck in the meantime. I was a bit nervous on the way to closest (now former) dealer - about 25 miles away. For the trip over, I packed a couple of jugs of water and kept an eye on the temperature gauge, but there was no drama.
Meanwhile the MY14 F-Type is still running on the original version with no issues. If/when I'm ever "in there," I'll swap them out for AL.
Meanwhile the MY14 F-Type is still running on the original version with no issues. If/when I'm ever "in there," I'll swap them out for AL.
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