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Something went wrong when installing Jaguar charger kit
Hi guys,
I just tried to install the charger kit in order to be able to connect the Jaguar "trickle charger"/ battery conditioner over the winter.
To my knowledge I followed the instructions exactly, but obviously I made a mistake somewhere. When connecting the charger kit I started with the black cable (earth) and connected it according to the instructions that came with the charger (see photo). But once the black connector touched the cable already in place, there were sparks (!) and the car alarm went off.
I figured it maybe was because the red cable also touched the body, so I connected the red cable first, and then the black one - this time without issue.
HOWEVER - now I can't close the trunk lid! When pushing the lid button the car beeps three times and nothing else happens. When connecting the charger it looks like it is charging fine. So:
1. What the hell did I do?!
2. How can I fix it? I don't dare closing the trunk lid manually in case I wouldn't be able to open it.
Car starts just fine and there seem to be no other electrical issues as far as I can tell.
Grateful for any help!
Charger kit connected according to Jaguar instructions. Seems to be charging just fine.
You might have blown a fuse, but I don't know which it might be.
However you might want to try the (swedish 😉 ) reset trix first. Disconnect the ground (earth) terminal on the battery for half a minute, then reconnect (disconnect your smart charger first). That will make all the different systems to reboot, and clear any fault software settings that might have occured.
You will then have to reset the side window up/down functions. I don't remember the procedure, but you find that in your manual.
On the X351 after a battery disconnect the trunk module reboots and doesn't know the current trunk lid position so it needs to be manually closed the first time for it to relearn it. It could be a similar system on the X152, and it may have reset if you temporarily shorted something and caused a brownout, etc, while installing the wires.
The three beeps could also mean it thinks there is a key inside the trunk?
If the trunk latch still operates correctly (close it by hand then check it can be released with the button on the lid/remote/car then you should be fine closing the lid manually. If you are still worried remove the parcel shelf first so you can still gain access over the seats.
On the X351 after a battery disconnect the trunk module reboots and doesn't know the current trunk lid position so it needs to be manually closed the first time for it to relearn it. It could be a similar system on the X152, and it may have reset if you temporarily shorted something and caused a brownout, etc, while installing the wires.
The three beeps could also mean it thinks there is a key inside the trunk?
If the trunk latch still operates correctly (close it by hand then check it can be released with the button on the lid/remote/car then you should be fine closing the lid manually. If you are still worried remove the parcel shelf first so you can still gain access over the seats.
+1. Works the same on the F-Type. I've confused the rear hatch a couple of times. Manually close the rear hatch, and everything will start working properly again. Also note: when connecting chargers, jumper cables or anything else to the car, always connect the positive lead first before connecting the ground. Avoids sparks and much worse.
I have not seen the Jaguar labeled battery manager before. I think they all come from the same source CENET or something like that. Mine came from WeatherTech and it has a motorcycle and winter settings in addition to the automobile. I find in order to get a reading indicating if the battery is full or being charged I need to plug in the unit before I apply to the battery. Not that it makes any difference, but I just the post and connection under the hood. Seems easier to me. Of course with the bonnet ajar you can't lock the car, but i prefer to have it unlocked when in storage in case there is an emergency and the car needs to be moved quickly.
I have not seen the Jaguar labeled battery manager before. I think they all come from the same source CENET or something like that..
It is CTEK, a Swedish firm...and every luxury make sells these units under their own label, and all for the same reason: the cars need full battery voltage to properly feed the multiple modules in luxury cars (which are often used infrequently).
Attaching the leads of the charging/maintaining unit permanently to the battery location means that the connecting and disconnecting procedure take a few seconds (if you are slow) with no need to open the bonnet and fiddle with the charging points, attaching clips...
+1. Works the same on the F-Type. I've confused the rear hatch a couple of times. Manually close the rear hatch, and everything will start working properly again. Also note: when connecting chargers, jumper cables or anything else to the car, always connect the positive lead first before connecting the ground. Avoids sparks and much worse.
THANK YOU both of you! I now dared to try to close the hatch manually, and it reset just like you said. Now everything works like it should.
Regarding the positive lead first; that's what I ended up doing, but Jaguar's instructions are actually to start with the negative/ earth (BLK). Well, that's a key learning for me at least.
Regarding the positive lead first; that's what I ended up doing, but Jaguar's instructions are actually to start with the negative/ earth (BLK). Well, that's a key learning for me at least.
The positive lead first advice relates to connecting clips to charge. Since you were attaching the cable to which the charger will be attached it shouldn't make any difference which is connected first, since each cable exists in isolation, so no danger of short circuiting. Your sparks were caused when you earthed the positive terminal, which had nothing to do with the negative cable.
The positive lead first advice relates to connecting clips to charge. Since you were attaching the cable to which the charger will be attached it shouldn't make any difference which is connected first, since each cable exists in isolation, so no danger of short circuiting. Your sparks were caused when you earthed the positive terminal, which had nothing to do with the negative cable.
Hmm, the sparks came from the black (negative) connector while touching the grounding lead. The red (positive) connector was not connected to anything at the time - just laying there - but probably touching the body. My thinking was also that it should have been a dead circuit, but obviously I don't remember even the basic essentials from school.
Did you have the charger plugged in to the cable at the time? I can't think of any reason why just touching an unconnected cable terminal to an earth point would cause sparks. Weird.
Did you have the charger plugged in to the cable at the time? I can't think of any reason why just touching an unconnected cable terminal to an earth point would cause sparks. Weird.
Nope the charger was not connected at the time. I agree that it is weird, it scared the **** out of me - especially as the alarm went off right after.
I guess the positive terminal must have touched something unintentionally.
Hmm, the sparks came from the black (negative) connector while touching the grounding lead. The red (positive) connector was not connected to anything at the time - just laying there - but probably touching the body. My thinking was also that it should have been a dead circuit, but obviously I don't remember even the basic essentials from school.
I might be way off here, but if you have the "older" F-type models with two batteries, maybe the red connector was still connected to the second battery through the system somehow, and therefor still "hot" when you grounded the negative lead?
Anyhow good that you got the hatch problem sorted with good advice from other good knowledge members on the forum. I connect the CTEK charger aproximately once every 6 week in winter storage, and it only needs some +/- 6 hours to charge to fully.
These Ctek's have interchangeable leads, so at the point you do the install, what you are working with, should be extension lead only, and I really cannot think of any way the extension only can result in any kind of spark during installation... unless you touched a positive/negative part with your wrench when connecting the opposite.
These Ctek's have interchangeable leads, so at the point you do the install, what you are working with, should be extension lead only, and I really cannot think of any way the extension only can result in any kind of spark during installation... unless you touched a positive/negative part with your wrench when connecting the opposite.
In a way I'm relieved that you guys seem as confused as I am. It really did happen though, and I wasn't holding the wrench nor had the charger connected. The only thing I can think of is that the positive lead must have touched something unintentionally. I think I had the plastic cover opened to the other connection points. That was maybe a bit careless in retrospect.
I might be way off here, but if you have the "older" F-type models with two batteries, maybe the red connector was still connected to the second battery through the system somehow, and therefor still "hot" when you grounded the negative lead?
Anyhow good that you got the hatch problem sorted with good advice from other good knowledge members on the forum. I connect the CTEK charger aproximately once every 6 week in winter storage, and it only needs some +/- 6 hours to charge to fully.
Yeah I have a 2015 MY - like you I believe.
Like you say, somehow the red connector must have touched something. Anyhow I will be more careful next time.
12-22-2018, 02:19 AM
Something went wrong when installing Jaguar charger kit
unless you touched a positive/negative part with your wrench when connecting the opposite.
It really did happen though, and I wasn't holding the wrench nor had the charger connected. The only thing I can think of is that the positive lead must have touched something unintentionally. I think I had the plastic cover opened to the other connection points. That was maybe a bit careless in retrospect.
