The PDF is showing that.
Should be a twisted pair with white/brown whereas the tweeter is twisted with a yellow/orange.
Pretty sure they are on different plugs.
Happy to double check next time I get back under the hat shelf.

 

Correct - the PDF shows purple/orange for the right tweeter positive. The PDF does not include the sub assignments but you posted that the right sub second coil negative also uses purple/orange. I'm trying to figure out if that is actually correct or an error. I haven't yet unwound the wire bundles but I guess I'll figure it out eventually.

 

Added AudioControl AC-LGD's (Load Generating Device). It seems modern digital factory amps aren't happy not seeing a load (speakers) in the circuit and by adding a DSP in the middle, things get a little weird. I was experiencing vocals that just sounded way off on some songs. Called AudioControl, who actually answers the phone, and they suggested the LGD's. No more weird vocals.


Chris, my boss, former JLR tech, finally got around to helping me set the gains on the amp. We used an SMD DD-1. First we checked the factory amp output. Using a 1Khz signal, the factory amp never clips. Using a 40hz signal, the factory amp clips at 37. Pretty much matching the info I was getting from the DM-810. Then we checked the Helix amp and we're able to set the gains at about 60% up. Now the system is loud at 13 and crazy loud at 20. But I've got some floor noise so I intend to turn the Helix down a bit. We sat in the car for a good hour playing with different crossovers, time alignment values and speaker configurations.

At this point we ditched the center channel entirely. Set the factory HU to "Stereo", moved the right side drivers time alignment values out a foot, hooked the two GS8's to the E/F channels on the Helix, moved the HPF on the GB40's up to 200, moved the LPF on the GS8's up to 200, left the HPF on the GS8's at 100, moved the LPF on the sub down to 80.

Played the first minute of this track about a thousand times.

 

Felt like I needed more bumps. Took out the Rainbow and installed a Kicker L7T.
I tried wrapping the sides with vinyl but to say it looked tragic would be an understatement.
Went back to skill level 1 and wrapped it in carpet.

 

Got some time on the RTA finally. Boy, was my "tune by ear" off.
With Jag Bass's help we found that as long as you don't put distortion into the DSP (never play the factory system above 37), you can run the input gains up as much as you like. Which is what it took to make the mids look right compared to the AudioControl House Curve.
Bumped tweeter input up to +4, mid up to +12, mid bass up to +3. These settings got my response up close to the house curve without having to bump up any individual band more than 3db. Then cutting the EQ bands that stuck up like a loose nail.

This is the EQ for the tweeter. Disregard the spike at 12.5k, it's a glitch in the DSP software that isn't really there.


This is the mid signal. The factory system accentuates 500hz like crazy, which is typically a black hole in most car systems but running the RTA, it was playing crazy loud right there, so I pulled it down as much as I could. Still wrestling with the crossover between the 4's in the door and the 8's behind the seats. I don't want the mid bass localizable from behind but I need to watch X MAXing the 4's. I'm not ready to move the 8's to the doors yet, I don't want to introduce any door resonance.

 

Woke up at 1:30am trying to work out subwoofer/enclosures in my dreams. Did a bunch of research (AKA watched YouTube).




Modeled the Kicker L7T102 sealed and vented vs my AudioFrog GB12D4 sealed and then in Pete's vented box he designed for me. The long and short of it was, the Kicker was never ever going to give me the bass extension I wanted.

So I took another look at Pete's box that I had already built and reasoned that if I cut off the offending bit and laid the baffle back at 30 degrees it might be less offensively huge. I modeled the new enclosure volume and discovered it was actual perfect compared to the dimensions that Andy has in the owners manual for the driver. So I backed the Jag out of the garage at 4am, closed the door so as not to offend the neighbors and cut the existing box's face off. Dropped it into the boot and was pretty happy with the results. Ran over to the shop and made a new baffle, installed it onto the box and dropped it in.

Played something with BASS.


Oh My Gosh! Ran back home and hooked up the lappy, turned down the sub output 4db. Now I have the low bass extension I was looking for.



Yes, it's going to take some work to make it look pretty.

 

Dropped the HPF on the GB40's to 125hz and dropped the LPF on the GS8's to 125hz. Brought the mid bass up front. Dropped the LPF on the GB12 to 70hz, smoothing out a EQ hump around 100hz.

After playing with the DM-RTA for a couple hours and not getting the results I wanted I had an epiphany as to EQing to the house curve. The DM-DSP app has a house curve saved in it as well. I played uncorrelated pink noise and pushed and pulled the output levels and EQ to match the house curve on the outgoing signal. I reasoned that A) the drivers were good and B) my placement was as good as it was going to get so C) lets hear what that sounds like. Voices came up nicely but were not shrill, mid bass very punchy and low lows nice and deep.

Got an embroidery guy to do the Leaper on some black vinyl, wrapped the sub box in landau foam and vinyl and switched subs to the one with a JL Audio grill.

 

Decided that combining the inputs from the mid and mid-bass into one set of drivers wasn’t working out. In order to separate the inputs I needed a dedicated set of mid drivers put back in the door cards. Needed something crazy shallow. Enter Morel’s new 2 1/2” shallow dome mid:

https://www.morelhifi.com/product/virtus-nano-mm2/

I found them in stock at Woofers Etc. I would have preferred buying them from Crutchfield but they had no stock. I was able to buy from Woofers through Amazon’s Morel Store, which made me feel secure that if Woofers couldn’t actually ship the drivers, Amazon would give me my money back.

I installed the MM2’s using the existing factory mid bracket that I had modified to take the AudioFrog GB25’s that were too deep. I made a mounting plate out of 3/16 ABS that I could screw the MM2’s to and then screw the plate to the brackets. I also took out the GB40’s and reinstalled the GB60’s in the door’s 8” hole. Fired up the DSP and separated the inputs, unhooked the 8’s behind the seat from the amp and rewired the door’s mid and mid-bass leads to the amp.

The MM2’s are not terribly efficient but power is cheap. I reset all the inputs and outputs to match the house curve and reset all the time alignment numbers to accommodate the new driver configuration. Downloaded some new Coldplay and the song from the new BMW X3 commercial and went for a drive.




Very nice!

 

Thanks for posting your audio upgrade journey. I’m planning on an extensive upgrade and your info is going to/has helped tremendously.

 

I'd be interested to hear what you have in mind and see your build.
Make sure you are using a DSP that load generates for the Jag amp. Either the AudioControl LGD's or the Helix Ultra that has it built in. There may be others. The Jag amp definitely needs it or it'll through some weird sounding and looking waves.
If I were starting fresh and hadn't already owned a bunch of AudioFrog stuff, I'd probably do the Morel MT300 tweeters and Morel MM2 mids. Easy to fit and sound great. And Crutchfield has a sale on Morel until 11/29!
For the mid bass, I referred to this thread a ton: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threa...eeters.432913/
The AudioFrog GB60's are still probably the best choice, if you plan to do a high power system. The GS60's are best bang for the buck.
This is ignoring the Focal Flax Evo 3 way's that would fit and sound fine, I'm sure. I just don't like the way Focal's are voiced.

I don't work for Bentley's any more. Which means I can't get audio at wholesale anymore.
But now I work for LPS Motorwerks. Which means I can get all my maintenance for cost. https://www.lpsmotorwerks.com/

 

Thanks for the additional hindsight advice and suggestions. I haven’t really looked into the AudioFrog stuff but will do.

I used to do a lot of car stereo installations 30 years ago but not much in the last 25 years and it’s been cool to see some of the new stuff that makes installations easier and as well as the Class D tech shrinking the size of amps.

I’d like to have access to all of the various factory DSP sound stages and ended buying a LC8i to capture the speaker levels of the 3 way fronts and center speaker. Those 3 signals (L, R, C) will run into a DM810. The factory rear sub and fill signal will run directly into the DM810. I saw you mention the LGD and picked up 7 of them (actually 8 but only need 7), thanks for that tip.

Amp wise, I’d like to keep it small and light so I’m going with all Audio Control ACM amps. Looking at some of the dyno test, they’re under rated and super efficient. I’ll run the door woofers with a 2.300. The door tweeters and mids with a 4.300. The center and rear will be driven with 3 out of the 4 channels of another 4.300. The sub will be run with a 1.300.

Speaker-wise I’m debating between the JLR Premium speaker upgrade or going with a set of JL Audio C7 speakers for all doors and center speaker. I think with the JLR upgrade with a slightly tweaked eq/crossover adjustments (higher HPF for the door woofers as mentioned by Mr. Mike) I can balance it with the rear speakers/subs to get more clean volume. But I’ll check out the Morel.

For the sub, I’m planning on going with a JL Audio HO110 and being able to take it out if I need the trunk room. Since I’d like the system to sound reasonable good without the rear sub, I’m still debating on what to do with the area behind the seats…. a rear 6.5” full range fill or going with a dedicated custom 6.5” subwoofer enclosure and a separate 3.5”/4” mid range speaker. I’ll try out a few different configurations and see what’s reasonably good.

Once I start tearing everything apart, I’m hoping I’m able to mount and hide the amps and DSP gear. The goal is to keep the interior as clean as possible but if not, I’m pretty sure I can hide 2 of the amps and the LC8i in the area behind the arm rest and the remainder of the gear in the trunk well storage area or maybe right behind the passenger seat.

While everything is stripped out, I plan on dynamatting the doors and entire back rear trunk area. As for power, 0 gauge to distribution block and 4 gauge to the amps. I’ve got a antigravity lithium 60ah battery and I think this should support any surge power needs. I’m not looking to blow the doors off but I do want to make sure everything is well supported.

For the 4 presets on the DM810, I plan on having a setting for the “stereo” setting with and without the 10” sub and the same for the DTS sound stage.

I primarily listen to instrumental and classic rock but also throw in some hip hop, R&B, jazz, funk and blues into the mix.

Please let me know your thoughts and any additional advice is certainly welcomed. I’ve got some time off over the holiday break in December and plan on tackling this and a few other projects then so I’ve got some time to research and change directions.

 

If you want to save yourself a ton of frustration, add LDG's and just let the JLR crossover points and other "Magic" through to your aftermarket AMPs. While not perfect, the Meridian processing isn't horrible and is setup to give you good sound from both front seats. If you do a DSP amo like the D6.1200 like I did, you can setup a memory for a time aligned one seat tune which I did. Honestly the memory setting stays on the Meridian factory most of the time. Trying to process ontop of the JLR processing can be very frustrating with the processing, all pass filtering, and such they are doing in their DSP portion of the JLR amp. Adding some quality speakers more power and a Sub will do wonders for the stock signal in itself. Take your Sub signal from the door woofers! Maybe some day someone live NAVTV will step up and produce a module to intercept the signal prior to the AMP which will open the door to working with a truely clean unaltered full range signal.

 

I thought about skipping the DM810 and just running straight into the Audio control ACM amps since they have the same speaker to line level converters as their LC series BUT if I go with aftermarket speakers with a different frequency response, the system does need to/should be Eq’ed flat and then eq’ed for the new set of speakers and dynamatting.

Knowing myself, I could start with speaker upgrades along with the amps without an additional DSP but within 3-6 months I’m going to want a full blown upgraded system so I’m just saving myself more time and energy in the long run.

Regarding the system configuration and set up, I’m not too worried as I have a pretty solid foundation on the theory and 25+ years as a recording studio musician and “think” I have a reasonably good ear for tuning.

Thanks for the advice but I’m pretty set on going this direction.

 

Good luck to you, trying to pass along what I have learned about this Meridian System over the last 10 months of upgrading my 20R. You may have the theory down but unwinding what is going on with the Jag DSP it not as easy as you might believe. But hey if you come up with a better way to skin the cat, har har, I would be more than willing to test it out. I run a AC D6.1200 on the front end and 1.300 on my 10JLTW3

 

New location for a good audio shop opened up close to my new job and as I wasn't 100% happy with the way I had the DSP set up I figured I'd give them a chance to listen to The Jag and make a recommendation. Wound up booking a couple hours with them for measurement and tune adjust as long as I could participate. He said that was fine because he was a Helix dealer and didn't have access to the AudioControl DSP software so he needed my laptop anyway. He started with a disk that runs three positive impulses and one negative impulse to check phase. Turns out I had one tweeter out of phase with the other. Then he opened up the crossover points on the mid channels and tested the response of the drivers with a hand held spectrum analyzer. My Morel MM2's can run 200-5,000 but the Jag's crossover limits it to 300-4,000. I had it set for 500-2,500. We wound up leaving it at 300-4,000, moving the tweeters up to 4,000. Then looking at the mid-bass which I had set at 100-500 he set at 80-300. Didn't change levels on any drivers but smoothed out the mids and tweets response with a couple EQ slides and it does sound much better.

Couple new favorite tracks to crank:

 

Rug Rat mentioned he thought some tracks sounded great but Tool still wasn’t up to his expectations. Tool is notoriously hard to tune for but he said he thought it was The Jag’s factory HU that was messing with some tracks. That got me to thinking maybe it was a source issue so I grabbed an old iPod Touch and hooked it up to the “Audio” port and it did sound much cleaner. Then I bought a Lightning to 3.5 audio adapter and tried the iPhone again, bypassing Bluetooth audio, and it sounded great. So I guess, at least in the case of the 2016 Jag, BT sucks. Mostly.

 

This audio section of Jaguar should be renamed to "Those who hate trunks space." Lol 😆

Interesting info and images.

I only swapped out my two rear subs and that alone gave my 2017 Premium a huge increase in quality. I don't care to do much else because im just getting old and tired 😴

One thing I can mention about blutooth.
Depending on the car and the system, i noticed some songs can sound great and others a bit off.

I have Pandora and pay for the service and have the high quality switched on which helps a lot.

Also, new phones and devices now use the newer version of BT. Version 5 now? So that may also help.

Going direct via quality AUX or USB will probably give you vastly different results as well.

Also i put audio sound padding all over behind them inside the space of the car and on the paneling around the sub just onto the edge where the paneling contacts the edge of the bracket so no ratling from the subs now.

 

Budget,
I installed the same subs as you and have found the factory amp doesn't really push enough wattage to move these things. So my experience was there wasn't much of a perceivable improvement in sound. I am currently installing a line converter and a class D monoblock amp to push them.

 

@Mikelr
Really? I got a pretty hug difference in bass when i swapped mine. Im in a 2017 Premium v6.

Ill have to check the AMP and see what its pushing.

It was noticably more powerful but I played with the head jntis audi settings and usually have to be above 20 volume level for then to really start pumping. Which is about the level i listen to anyways.

but if you can squeeze a small amp or booster of some kind behind them in the empty space it would surely help.

Im not a fan of giving up trunk space but i have seen many get some ampsnsqueezed into the battery compartment.

 

A wired connection will almost always have higher bandwidth than wireless (and less potential for interference!).