Does STJLR.03.5006 0W-20 lubricant now supercede the previous specification?

 

Not sure...But here is what is currently published on JLR Website:

DC

 

Correct, attached is a PDF from JLR showing that specification for the US market takes effect as of July 2018. However, I'll bet a lot of dealers are still stocking the older STJLR 51.5122 spec oil. That's what the service department gave me when I asked for a quart of the Castrol Edge Professional 0W-20 oil to have on hand in case my car burned a bit of oil during the break in process.

I contacted Castrol and asked where I could buy the new STJLR.03.5006 0W-20 oil online and was told that it was only sold through authorized Jaguar dealers. That means that I will have to make a 100 mile round trip to buy some when I am ready to do the first oil & filter change. And I will make sure to ask if they have the STJLR.03.5006 oil before making the drive.

If anyone know of online retailers who have the new spec oil please post their name or a link.

 

Interesting that 5W-20 is no longer recommended for the V6. I've always used 5W-20 (except when I forget to tell the dealer) after an early addendum to the owner's handbook, and I store the car in the winter.

 

Yes that was a running change. Jaguar changed from 5W-20 to 0W-20. We "think" it was due to the timing tensioner problems but we were never given an official answer.
Yes my 2014 XJR oil cap says 5W-20 on it. I am using up the last of my 5W-20 stuff and then will use the newer 0W-20 oil. Mobil 1 ESP X2

This thread has 3 oils beside Castrol that meet the Jaguar standard.
Jaguar Oils
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.
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Why not just throw in mobil1 or castrol synthetic 5W20 and change it out every 6 months or 4000 miles? Isn't this the best way to protect any modern engine? More often if you are driving very hard on each outing and after every track day. Same goes with brake fluid and other fluids...

 

Not saying you can't do that...Or that the engine will blow up if you do. But it appears that this spec oil is a co-developed product specific to the engineering of these engines. I am pretty sure it has a specific wear package and some unique friction modifiers for "optimal" performance and longevity.

Again...Not saying it will destroy the engine if you do otherwise...Just not sure if the lack of wear package and friction modifiers may not have an adverse longer term effect?

DC

 

I highly doubt there is anything special about this low compression 5.0L V8... that any modern motor oil that goes into BMW, Lamborghini, Ferrari etc cannot handle in terms of anti-wear additives. I own a couple of high performance cars from different european brands and they all use off the shelf motor-oil without issue. When a Jaguar dealer has a B.O on their ''special Blend'' Castrol, do they stop servicing cars? Mobil 1 extended performance, Castrol Full Synthetic or Penzzoil Ultra Platinum will all do an excellent job! Amsoil is great as well!

 

Supposedly the Jaguar/Castrol formula provides extra-good wear protection despite the low viscosity.

I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, which meets the specification.

 

I just did an oil change on my 2018 2.0 turbo anyone who has this engine it is simple to do although I used a lift as I had to take off the undertray which made it easy also give access to the air filter so changed it to:
Oil used was Castrol Edge 0W 20
Oil filter JDE37128G
Air Filter T2R1882
Before car on lift open bonnet just pull up on engine cover it pulls off, loosen oil cap, you'll see filter on top, get filter removal tool to remove and then the filter just pulls out, then car up on lift and remove the whole undertray , on mine the tray under the oil sump and the larger front tray had to come off to access air filter. Then you'll see the drain bolt on side of sump, loosen and drain then refit. The housing for the air filter can be see on the right hand side underneath, just loosen pipe clip and then 5 screws hold on the box with 3 clips on the back , take off then clean , new filter in then refit, it takes a bit of work to get the 3 rear clips in first. Then all covers back in , car down and then fit new filter and back on. Fill with oil, I put in 6.5 litres but when started and rechecked it I had to add a bit extra , it was 7 to the correct mark on dipstick. Back on with cover and done in less then 1hr.
On resetting the service message it was simple, my car is right hand drive so this worked for me,
Sat in car all doors closed
Turn just ignition on
Then got out and opened the passenger door and bonnet
Back into car and put one foot on brake and one on accelerator pedal, then press down on the 2 together for 10 seconds , you should see a service reset message saying reset. Shut door and bonnet, job done, and no big cost.
Special thanks to member Phil Edwards for all the info he supplied me.

Hope it's help










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I have been using two Aussie brand oils for years now, Nulon and Penrite, and have never used Castrol in my F-Type or before that in my 2010 XFR.
Until the last oil change in the F-Type about a month ago I used full synthetic 5W-20 which met the "old" (original) spec for the AJ133 and early AJ126, Ford WSS M2C 925A (or 945A or 946A or 947A) and never had a single engine or oil related problem. I used 5W rather than 0W because I live in a relatively hot climate and rarely if ever see sub-zero temps that 0W is meant for. Those oils were always ILSAC GF-5.
Then a few months ago I found out about and read up on the new ILSAC GF-6 oils (6A for "ordinary" ICE engines and 6B for hybrids with extra low viscosity oil such as 16W, so 6A for our engines). Amongst other things, GF-6 is specifically designed to help prevent timing chain wear and "stretch" which as we know can be a problem with the AJ133 and AJ126.
I shopped around and could not find any locally available oil which was full synth 5W-20 ILSAC GF-6A, but I did find Penrite 0W-20 ILSAC GF-6A meeting Ford WSS M2C 945/947A. I could have bought Penzzoil or Motul etc 0W-20 ILSAC GF-6A but only by importing it and paying three or four times (and in many cases with shipping 10 times!) the cost of the Penrite brew which was freely available at my local auto parts store and often on sale at a discounted price.
So I bought 3 x 5 litre bottles of the Penrite brew and chucked 7.25 litres in at the last oil change a month ago, and the engine has been running sweet as a nut since and slightly less rattly than it has for ages.
Thing is I have not found any evidence that the JLR recommended Castrol brew, be it STJLR.03.5006 or .5004 or 51.5122, meets ILSAC GF-6A and I suspect it does not. And I have not found any oil either 0W-20 or 5W-20 which specifically states "meets STJLR blah blah blah and ILSAC GF-6A".
From all my research it seems to me that the benefits of using ILSAC GF-6A in our AJ133 and AJ126 engines far outweigh any benefits of using the later spec STJLR oils.

Edit - update - at least here in Oz the only decent 0W-20 or 5W-20 fully synth ILSAC GF-6A oil I can find (other than the Penrite) is Liqui Moly Special Tec, see here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15446267...Cclp%3A2334524
Looks to be the real deal but it's over twice the price I pay for the Penrite!

 

The new bottles from the dealer list both specs. My last Blackstone oil analysis revealed a significant increase in molybdenum which Blackstone attributed to a change in the formulation. Apparently Jag is now relying heavily on both Titanium and Moly for engine protection.

BTW, using the liquivac, today I was able to extract 7.3 qt. Plus what was in the oil filter and added 7.4 qts to get right back to the same oil level. That means somewhere between .3 and .4 of old oil was left somewhere in the system. Not worth even thinking about.

 

Interesting.
Years ago I came across claims/opinions that JLR specified high titanium content in the recommended Unobtainium Castrol oil rather than molybdenum because titanium played nice with the catalytic converters but moly did not. Sounded like BS to me so I had no qualms using Nulon oil which at the time was spruiked as having lots of added moly but no added titanium. Also the new ILSAC GF-6A Penrite oil I now use doesn't mention either titanium or moly at all.
I doubt JLR have changed the chemical or physical composition of the cat converter bricks in the meantime!
With the old oil extraction have you tried what I do, suggested by another member here a few months ago?
After you have pumped out as much of the old oil as you can and the pump is pushing nothing but air, pour around a litre of fresh oil down the oil filter hole, let it drain into the sump, then pump it all out. The theory is that this flushes most of the remaining old oil out of the engine oil galleries, and the first time I tried this I was amazed by how much dirty oil came out the second time before only clean oil came out. Of course this is no proof that all the old oil has been removed and who knows how much is still sitting in the sump but for the cost of one litre of oil and an extra couple of minutes I will keep on doing it.

 

Here is the spec sheet from Castrol on the Edge Professional E C5 0W-20 oil that meets the new STJLR.03.5006 requirements:

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/B639CC08EE878CE680258221003C3A03/$File/BPXE-AVJ43M.pdf

You can compare the formula with other oils that you may consider using and see if they meet the requirements or at least are "close enough".

Interestingly, no mention of the ILSAC GF rating is given by Castrol. I looked at the bottle of the old STJLR 51.5122 oil that I bought at the dealer in May when I took delivery of my car, and there is no GF rating info printed on the bottle either. I seem to recall though, that the manufacturers need to submit samples of their oil and pay rather high fees in order to get the official ILSAC ratings so maybe Castrol didn't feel that was necessary for their very specialized formula specific to JLR vehicles. I have heard the same thing about Redline brand oil, they are a rather small "boutique" maker and would rather not spend the money to get the rating.

In any case I'll stick with the factory prescribed oil, at least through the warranty period and until such time that other oils have been approved. It sure would be nice to use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Ultra when you can buy a 5 qt. jug on sale often for around $25-$27 instead of the Castrol Edge Professional E C5 for almost $12 per quart.

 

I purchased this for top-ups if needed. $49 from Amazon. Meets the Jag spec and made in Germany - can't be bad!!
Tha car (2021 P380) actually needed a pint (according to the onboard gauge) within the first 4K miles but has since appeared to stabilize..
Leaving on a 2K road trip Friday, so will be interested to see if it requires topping up again,

Liqui Moly Special Tec LR SAE 0W-20 5 Liter

 

A small loss of oil during break-in is to be expected.

 

Oz, That flushing procedure sounds like a good idea. If I remember, I’ll try that.

 

Update - refer back to my earlier post (#11) where I linked to a Fleabay Oz listing for Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 0W-20 ILSAC GF-6A.
On closer examination, but you have to really squint to see it, that ad is for GF-5, not GF-6A.
THIS ad is for GF-6A: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/36347264...oAAOSwvEFffq91 (of course only from the UK with mucho postage!).
The moral of the story is you need to double check that you really are getting/ordering/buying GF-6A and not GF-5 as very often they look identical and the only ILSAC detail is a crappy pic of the front of the bottle. I was caught out this way when I first bought 2 x 5 litre bottles of Penrite 0W-20 GF-6A from my local auto parts store, they were the last two bottles on the shelf so I grabbed them and ran and when I checked them a couple of days later I spotted that one of them was in fact GF-5! Luckily for me when I took that bottle back to the shop that had more GF-6A in store and swapped bottles with no argument.

 

The Product Data sheet you link to is dated 26 January 2018 and ILSAC GF-6 didn't come out until 2020 IIRC so even if it had an ILSAC rating/spec it would be GF-5 at the latest.

 

I doubled checked my Liqui Moly.
Definitely labelled for JLR specs.