Yes, that's what I normally do. I can have the garage door open and work on the car this way. Otherwise the door and the roof would occupy the same space.

 

Hey Stohlen, ran across your thread on your garage upgrade and see you installed a heater. Are you in a snow country type climate? I'm looking to heat my detached garage in winter continuously to 50-55 degrees to avoid condensation. What type of heater did you install and how do you run it (all the time, when occupied, ..etc.?)

 

Hahaha you guys and your quoting the pictures too.

I live in Michigan, so certainly a snow county. My garage is 750 sq ft with only one side attached to the house, so minimally insulated from the outside. I used a 7500 watt electric heater:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has an adjustable thermostat and is left on all the time. I leave my garage at about 60 F and the heater clicks on/off as needed. Doesn't run too often, maybe 2-3 times an hour for a few minutes to keep that temperature.

 

Nice, but try that here in 'socialist' Ontario Canada and the electric rates are so high, you would need a rich uncle just to pay the power bill.
Lawrence

 

Murmur, my concern also as electric in NYS is not cheap. I'm going to consult my mechanical engineer colleagues to get their take. These fixed up garages are the ultimate accessory for your car and you!

 

A friend of mine that likes to work in his garage on cars / equip. etc.. insulated and installed a propane overhead heater as its a lot cheaper around here than electric. Although he is in a rural location.
Lawrence

 

I am a mechanical contractor with over 30 years in the business and have done many, many shops from huge 500,000 sq ft. production shops to small residential garages. There are tons of options and ALL have their pluses and minuses like: capital cost, installation cost, maintenance costs, fuel costs, some are more suited to periodic large influxes of low ambient outdoor air, some are well suited to negative pressures created by process exhaust, etc. etc.

Short answer/observations; on a new build, in floor hydronic heat with a high efficiency gas boiler is about as good as it gets.
for a "dirty" shop with high ceilings and overhead doors that are opened often a gas fired radiant tube heater is a good choice and relatively inexpensive.

For many, providing occasional heat in a well insulated and only occasionally used shop an electric unit heater makes sense.

I've had a couple shops without gas and have used an electric unit heater on one (kept at 18 deg C all winter - 1000 sq. ft stand alone building with 12' ceilings) and another I did with a PTAC heat pump w. electric back up.

Dave

 

You can also go Mini Split, reasonably priced, better efficiency than a ptec.

 

Thanks for the feedback gents. As another member indicated about spending stupid money I too thought in slab heating with a gas fired boiler would be great. Building is existing though. Jack hammer out my slab and some gravel, install rigid insulation, pex piping and lay a red and black checker pattern brick paver to match my patio brick (red only). I'd have to run a gas line from the house, which I can figure out. Garage is about 20 feet from the house. It's a carriage style garage in Tudor style. Split system is doable but would run electric, not sure on the energy use there.

I've already converted the (2) 8'x8' doors from sliding to swinging for better access width with some massive steel bb hinges. Automatic operators are planned. This project is heading to get out of control. Will be serving as a man cave/car cave. It has a brick fireplace and chimney where I thought I could put in a pellet or gas/propane fireplace but don't think code allows open flame where gas vehicle stored. Need to check on closed systems.

Just really getting into the planning as I built an attached shed to clear the garage for me and the f type.

I want to run heat continuously to avoid condensation. DPellitier you obviously are aware of all the issues. I'll get a photo to post.

 

If you're willing to run a gas line, a tube heater or a ceiling hung space heater will work fine for you. I have a space heater in my 2000' shop. I keep it at 45 degrees when I'm not around and it doesn't cost much. I'm on propane here. Gas would be less. I would think $2500 would install the unit I have.

 

Take about garage shaming. Mine looks like the city dump compared to this beautiful garage. I'd have people over for wine tastings or parties in that garage. Oh screw it to be honest it is nicer than my bedroom.

I know it wouldn't be the greatest health wise but my fantasy from childhood is to have a rotating swivel floor inside my home (or garage if this nice) that turns the car around like the Bat Cave.

 

+1. I'm pretty damned jealous!

 

<sad face>

I don't have a garage. It's a covered carport filled with motorcycles and my '78 Turbo. The Jaguar lives outside. So does the Miata.

 

Oh for shame! I feel better now. A dump with a roof trumps the outdoors.

I had an FJ Cruiser that was like brand new for three years kept indoors and then with just one season outside it aged worst than the previous three years.

One thing I learned: Rubber door/other treatments keep the seals from looking like crap from parking outside. Of course - even a cheap car cover.

 

Well it's quite charming from the outside but the inside is bare studs and unfinished and the fireplace has no mantel or facing, but that's what I expect to fix up.

 

I have is friend with a small excavator. I think running gas line is best or a propane tank.

 

Yes some have better efficiency than a PTAC but the install cost is usually higher by the time you get a refrigeration mechanic involved to install the lineset, do start up etc. .....like I said, pros and cons to EVERYTHING. Could be the right choice though.

Cheers,
Dave

 

Yes, installing in-slab radiant into an existing shop isn't really cost effective. Like FtypeRookie mentioned, if you can reasonably install a gas line then a gas heater is likely the top choice with a few options;

- gas unit heater; cheapest and works well. Not usually the most efficient AFUE ratings but check with the model/manufacture you're looking at. Also standard unit heaters aren't sealed combusion so you don't want to use an exhaust fan or other source of negative pressure. You can get sealed combustion unit heaters but they are more expensive. You can also get ducted or unducted units.

- a horizontal or vertical gas fired furnace; high efficiencies available, relatively inexpensive, condensing furnaces are 90+ efficiencies and sealed combusion. Venting is cheap and easy PVC. units can be ducted for better distribution.

- radiant tube heater; sealed combustion and radiant design means that it deals with open overhead doors, etc. much better than forced air. You need a decent ceiling height, proper placement for coverage is important and it may intefere with lifts, cranes, etc.


Dave

 

@DPelletier. Have you used gas fired when cars with gasoline are stored? Thanks for the detailed replies too.

 

Yes, natural gas tube heaters and unit heaters are common in automotive shop applications. All modern cars have sealed systems but to be safest, I'd stick with sealed combustion type heaters. Sort version; production shop with doors opening and closing all the time, high ceilings, some exhaust systems, etc = hard to beat a radiant tube heater. Residential application where a constant temp is desired, no really dirty work (welding, grinding, painting, etc.) is done often and the doors are opened infrequently, a condensing furnace or a sealed combustion unit heater probably get the nod....

Cheers,
Dave