Supercharger coupler rattle
#1
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Supercharger coupler rattle
Sorry to start a new thread on this subject, but I need to ask a specific question about it.
When I first got the F-Type S some 16 months ago I noticed it had a rattly engine which I quickly diagnosed as the dreaded supercharger coupler / torsion isolator rattle. Around 26,000 km or 18,000 miles on it at the time.
I took the car into my local JLR dealership (the only one within 700 km) and they diagnosed the rattle as a dodgy supercharger belt tensioner, which I didn't agree with but I went ahead with a free under warranty change of this tensioner.
That made no difference at all so I took the car back to the dealership a couple of weeks later and this time they agreed it was the SC coupler, so they applied the relevant TSB and replaced the whole snout of the supercharger including the coupler, again under warranty. Or so they said! I noticed hardly any change in the rattle, at best it was very slightly less often and less loud, and I've never been convinced they really did anything. Most times it's only loud at cold start-up and drops down to a more mild rattle once the engine is warm, but it has been getting louder and more consistant.
A few months ago I started to hear the dreaded "clunk on shutdown" which is one of the symptoms of a stuffed coupler. Not every time I shut the engine down, more like every tenth time.
A couple of weeks ago I started to hear a more high-pitched whirring/scraping sound from the engine bay, similar to the sound a worn bearing makes, on top of the now normal rattle. The rattle comes and goes but the whir is fairly constant and increases with revs. It's not loud, just enough to hear over the top of the other noises. It doesn't sound anything like a slipping or worn belt, it's definitely a metallic sound.
I thought it might be the bearing in the secondary high pressure fuel pump but I now don't think it is, coz I got my trusty engine stethoscope out and had a good listen all around the engine. 99% of the rattles and whirs are coming from the supercharger area and no odd noises from the fuel pumps other than the expected pulsing.
I'm now fairly sure all the "wrong" noises are caused by the SC coupler being worn. The car has now done just shy of 40,000 km / 26,000 miles.
The warranty expires in 11 days time and I have the car booked in at an independent shop for the three year service on the same day, after that I intend to do all servicing myself.
So, after all that, my main question is "what harm could be done by not replacing the suspected worn coupler?" Put another way, how long can I leave it before the coupler really packs up and causes other problems, or will it just go on rattling for ages without being a problem other than the noise?
I have decided there is no point going back to the dealership to see about another warranty / TSB replacement of the coupler, as they will either say "there is nothing wrong with it" or they will pretend to replace it again, I do not trust this dealer at all.
If I get the independent shop to replace the coupler how much do you think it would cost? I'm prepared to pay up to $1,000 for the job but not much more.
When I first got the F-Type S some 16 months ago I noticed it had a rattly engine which I quickly diagnosed as the dreaded supercharger coupler / torsion isolator rattle. Around 26,000 km or 18,000 miles on it at the time.
I took the car into my local JLR dealership (the only one within 700 km) and they diagnosed the rattle as a dodgy supercharger belt tensioner, which I didn't agree with but I went ahead with a free under warranty change of this tensioner.
That made no difference at all so I took the car back to the dealership a couple of weeks later and this time they agreed it was the SC coupler, so they applied the relevant TSB and replaced the whole snout of the supercharger including the coupler, again under warranty. Or so they said! I noticed hardly any change in the rattle, at best it was very slightly less often and less loud, and I've never been convinced they really did anything. Most times it's only loud at cold start-up and drops down to a more mild rattle once the engine is warm, but it has been getting louder and more consistant.
A few months ago I started to hear the dreaded "clunk on shutdown" which is one of the symptoms of a stuffed coupler. Not every time I shut the engine down, more like every tenth time.
A couple of weeks ago I started to hear a more high-pitched whirring/scraping sound from the engine bay, similar to the sound a worn bearing makes, on top of the now normal rattle. The rattle comes and goes but the whir is fairly constant and increases with revs. It's not loud, just enough to hear over the top of the other noises. It doesn't sound anything like a slipping or worn belt, it's definitely a metallic sound.
I thought it might be the bearing in the secondary high pressure fuel pump but I now don't think it is, coz I got my trusty engine stethoscope out and had a good listen all around the engine. 99% of the rattles and whirs are coming from the supercharger area and no odd noises from the fuel pumps other than the expected pulsing.
I'm now fairly sure all the "wrong" noises are caused by the SC coupler being worn. The car has now done just shy of 40,000 km / 26,000 miles.
The warranty expires in 11 days time and I have the car booked in at an independent shop for the three year service on the same day, after that I intend to do all servicing myself.
So, after all that, my main question is "what harm could be done by not replacing the suspected worn coupler?" Put another way, how long can I leave it before the coupler really packs up and causes other problems, or will it just go on rattling for ages without being a problem other than the noise?
I have decided there is no point going back to the dealership to see about another warranty / TSB replacement of the coupler, as they will either say "there is nothing wrong with it" or they will pretend to replace it again, I do not trust this dealer at all.
If I get the independent shop to replace the coupler how much do you think it would cost? I'm prepared to pay up to $1,000 for the job but not much more.
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#3
#4
#5
See the attached TSB, it explains how to test for worn coupler (remove supercharger belt and test for play whikst rotating by hand.
It goes on to explain which symptoms indicate a replacement coupler is needed and which additional symptoms indicate the entire supercharger should be replaced.
I would push for warranty rectification.
It goes on to explain which symptoms indicate a replacement coupler is needed and which additional symptoms indicate the entire supercharger should be replaced.
I would push for warranty rectification.
Last edited by Paul_59; 01-04-2018 at 02:38 PM.
#6
See the attached TSB, it explains how to test for worn coupler (remove supercharger belt and test for play whikst rotating by hand.
It goes on to explain which symptoms indicate a replacement coupler is needed and which additional symptoms indicate the entire supercharger should be replaced.
I would push for warranty rectification.
It goes on to explain which symptoms indicate a replacement coupler is needed and which additional symptoms indicate the entire supercharger should be replaced.
I would push for warranty rectification.
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#8
#9
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Just different TSBs, although I suspect the coupler itself is identical.
Different TSBs because the 5L and 3L superchargers are different with different snouts and the warranty fix is to replace the entire snout of the supercharger.
If it really packs up on mine (fingers crossed it never will!) then I will get just the coupler changed.
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Misujerr (01-09-2018)
#10
It effects both 5L and 3L, mine is a 3L.
Just different TSBs, although I suspect the coupler itself is identical.
Different TSBs because the 5L and 3L superchargers are different with different snouts and the warranty fix is to replace the entire snout of the supercharger.
If it really packs up on mine (fingers crossed it never will!) then I will get just the coupler changed.
Just different TSBs, although I suspect the coupler itself is identical.
Different TSBs because the 5L and 3L superchargers are different with different snouts and the warranty fix is to replace the entire snout of the supercharger.
If it really packs up on mine (fingers crossed it never will!) then I will get just the coupler changed.
#11
#12
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But it's very hard to tell which ones are for the TVS R series superchargers as opposed to the earlier M series, and in turn which ones work for the 3.0.
Here's one that is specifically advertised for the 3.0, but it looks nothing like the OEM part or the other "solid green" ones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine...pWXjZR&vxp=mtr
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Unhingd (01-09-2018)
#13
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goodfodder (10-18-2020)
#14
Hi Gang.
As always the contributions here are a savor when dealing with dealers and independent shops.
So I have a 2014 F-Type S Convertible with ~63k miles on it and alas I too now have the super charger rattle and I will need to replace my isolator.
My shop asked if I knew off hand if there are any special tools needed to get the supercharger off, as they mentioned other older/other models needed special curved wrenches to get around parts during the disassembly. They said they would check, but I was curious if anyone else here has had the work done with an independent shop that was nice enough to explain the process and if any special tools were needed.
Also incase anyone was wondering, my dealer quoted me $2459.11 for parts and labor. I do not have the extended warranty, which I'm almost glad I don't even have to attempt that fight.
As always the contributions here are a savor when dealing with dealers and independent shops.
So I have a 2014 F-Type S Convertible with ~63k miles on it and alas I too now have the super charger rattle and I will need to replace my isolator.
My shop asked if I knew off hand if there are any special tools needed to get the supercharger off, as they mentioned other older/other models needed special curved wrenches to get around parts during the disassembly. They said they would check, but I was curious if anyone else here has had the work done with an independent shop that was nice enough to explain the process and if any special tools were needed.
Also incase anyone was wondering, my dealer quoted me $2459.11 for parts and labor. I do not have the extended warranty, which I'm almost glad I don't even have to attempt that fight.
#16
Just replace it with a solid isolator. That spring on the stock isolator digs itself into the shaft overtime, and then you will have bigger issues. So replacing it with another stock one will not permanently fix the issue. When I took mines out, it had already started digging its way in.
#17
#18
#19
Here's what came up for me. Anyone run one for many miles or years? PLASTIC. And,they don't look the same as the above picture?
Supercharger Parts Dot Com New Genuine EATON Supercharger Isolator 3.0 Liter Jaguar Land Rover Range
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine...-/112433704125
Supercharger Parts Dot Com New Genuine EATON Supercharger Isolator 3.0 Liter Jaguar Land Rover Range
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine...-/112433704125
#20
Hi Gang.
As always the contributions here are a savor when dealing with dealers and independent shops.
So I have a 2014 F-Type S Convertible with ~63k miles on it and alas I too now have the super charger rattle and I will need to replace my isolator.
My shop asked if I knew off hand if there are any special tools needed to get the supercharger off, as they mentioned other older/other models needed special curved wrenches to get around parts during the disassembly. They said they would check, but I was curious if anyone else here has had the work done with an independent shop that was nice enough to explain the process and if any special tools were needed.
Also incase anyone was wondering, my dealer quoted me $2459.11 for parts and labor. I do not have the extended warranty, which I'm almost glad I don't even have to attempt that fight.
As always the contributions here are a savor when dealing with dealers and independent shops.
So I have a 2014 F-Type S Convertible with ~63k miles on it and alas I too now have the super charger rattle and I will need to replace my isolator.
My shop asked if I knew off hand if there are any special tools needed to get the supercharger off, as they mentioned other older/other models needed special curved wrenches to get around parts during the disassembly. They said they would check, but I was curious if anyone else here has had the work done with an independent shop that was nice enough to explain the process and if any special tools were needed.
Also incase anyone was wondering, my dealer quoted me $2459.11 for parts and labor. I do not have the extended warranty, which I'm almost glad I don't even have to attempt that fight.
The following details are for 5.0L V8
Part required C2D52713
This is the front "snout " of the supercharger, it's available from Jaguar dealers at $390
Labour time for replacement of the part under warranty are 3.7 hours
I would think that the price quoted for parts and labour is excessive.