Thanks Unhingd!
#21
The film gives you the protection on top, and the paint is protected underneath. It seems rather obvious to me. It's ridiculous to spend the money on cQuartz to protect the film, when any kind of wax or paint protection product will do that. XPEL is warrantied for 10 years.
If you're not wrapping the entire car, the cost of cQuartz on the un-filmed panels is not much different than protecting the rest of the car before wrapping certain panels.
If you're not wrapping the entire car, the cost of cQuartz on the un-filmed panels is not much different than protecting the rest of the car before wrapping certain panels.
Last edited by Foosh; 07-04-2016 at 07:37 PM.
#22
#23
Originally Posted by Foosh
The film gives you the protection on top, and the paint is protected underneath. It seems rather obvious to me. It's ridiculous to spend the money on cQuartz to protect the film, when any kind of wax or paint protection product will do that. XPEL is warrantied for 10 years.
If you're not wrapping the entire car, the cost of cQuartz on the un-filmed panels is not much different than protecting the rest of the car before wrapping certain panels.
If you're not wrapping the entire car, the cost of cQuartz on the un-filmed panels is not much different than protecting the rest of the car before wrapping certain panels.
What's done is done, and to each his own, but in my experience this is not how these two technologies are typically mated.
#24
OK, I'm no expert in this subject area, and just went w/ what a long-time expert recommended. It made no difference-price wise, and having had many cars w/ nose and hoods filmed, cleaning the car was always easy. This is my first go w/ cQuartz.
Last edited by Foosh; 07-04-2016 at 10:48 PM.
#25
After rinsing down my car, it takes all of 5 minutes to spray (very little of it) and polish. The difference between pre and post polish is amazing when gliding a micro fiber across the surface.
#26
Foosh, not to worry. Rob was certainly adequately diligent to ensure proper bonding of the wrap to the car. The cQuartz on the paint will prevent any chemical reaction with the adhesive so that you are left with a perfect surface for the next time it gets wrapped in ten years. UV protection for the wrap (and additionally for the paint) comes from the spray bottle of Prep N Polish that Rob gave you. Do not wax the wrap (or the cQuartz). You don't know what chemicals are in the wax that might deteriorate the resin.
After rinsing down my car, it takes all of 5 minutes to spray (very little of it) and polish. The difference between pre and post polish is amazing when gliding a micro fiber across the surface.
After rinsing down my car, it takes all of 5 minutes to spray (very little of it) and polish. The difference between pre and post polish is amazing when gliding a micro fiber across the surface.
#28
Haven't you heard, gravel is the latest trendy and cool way to go when building a country estate, which we did a couple of years ago. :-)
Actually no issues at all, it's very hard packed with no rocks kicked up. It was done by a paving company, cut-out just like a paved driveway, with several layers of crushed rock laid down and rolled between each, and then thin layers of gravel put down and also rolled between every layer. The final result is as solid as asphalt, and far more aesthetically pleasing than ugly blacktop. It's also a lot cooler in summer than either blacktop or pavers.
It's required zero maintenance in 3 years, and if you drive a different pathway in and out, it continually repacks itself. It also beautifully washes after every rainfall, and no need for sweeping or blowing off dirt. Lastly, it's not like I'm driving highway speeds in my driveway. :-)
Actually no issues at all, it's very hard packed with no rocks kicked up. It was done by a paving company, cut-out just like a paved driveway, with several layers of crushed rock laid down and rolled between each, and then thin layers of gravel put down and also rolled between every layer. The final result is as solid as asphalt, and far more aesthetically pleasing than ugly blacktop. It's also a lot cooler in summer than either blacktop or pavers.
It's required zero maintenance in 3 years, and if you drive a different pathway in and out, it continually repacks itself. It also beautifully washes after every rainfall, and no need for sweeping or blowing off dirt. Lastly, it's not like I'm driving highway speeds in my driveway. :-)
#29
Haven't you heard, gravel is the latest trendy and cool way to go when building a country estate, which we did a couple of years ago. :-)
Actually no issues at all, it's very hard packed with no rocks kicked up. It was done by a paving company, cut-out just like a paved driveway, with several layers of crushed rock laid down and rolled between each, and then thin layers of gravel put down and also rolled between every layer. The final result is as solid as asphalt, and far more aesthetically pleasing than ugly blacktop. It's also a lot cooler in summer than either blacktop or pavers.
It's required zero maintenance in 3 years, and if you drive a different pathway in and out, it continually repacks itself. It also beautifully washes after every rainfall, and no need for sweeping or blowing off dirt. Lastly, it's not like I'm driving highway speeds in my driveway. :-)
Actually no issues at all, it's very hard packed with no rocks kicked up. It was done by a paving company, cut-out just like a paved driveway, with several layers of crushed rock laid down and rolled between each, and then thin layers of gravel put down and also rolled between every layer. The final result is as solid as asphalt, and far more aesthetically pleasing than ugly blacktop. It's also a lot cooler in summer than either blacktop or pavers.
It's required zero maintenance in 3 years, and if you drive a different pathway in and out, it continually repacks itself. It also beautifully washes after every rainfall, and no need for sweeping or blowing off dirt. Lastly, it's not like I'm driving highway speeds in my driveway. :-)
The following users liked this post:
Foosh (07-10-2016)
#30
Is it kosher to ask what your paint correction cost? I've looked into it locally and can only find a few providers who seem to be all over the board with pricing. Some are in the $2k range, others are around $500. If anyone has any recommendations in the Dallas area, that would be great, too!
#31
#32
#33
A little over $1K if it's done by a true professional. It could be a lot more, on say a 10-year black car, but if it's less, it won't be much more than a wash and wax. That's not a true paint correction.
#35
To this point
It would be nice to have a list to bring in and not leave it up to them to simply get the car looking nice.
I have a guy that says he will paint correct, then film wrap the front end for $1500. Just not sure what he's doing under the wrap.
Last edited by polarisnavyxj; 07-11-2016 at 10:08 AM.
#37
Here is some pics of my IRR being detailed, including paint correction to remove swirls and some minor scratches:
» 2014 Jaguar F-Type R Krokeide Bilpleie
In some of the pics you can easilly see the result were parts of the panels are corrected. There are also some "before and after" pics.
The job also included a Gtechniq "Crystal serum" coating, as a extra protection which works great (protects well against swirls).
» 2014 Jaguar F-Type R Krokeide Bilpleie
In some of the pics you can easilly see the result were parts of the panels are corrected. There are also some "before and after" pics.
The job also included a Gtechniq "Crystal serum" coating, as a extra protection which works great (protects well against swirls).
#38
Ahh OK, but I do have imperfections and rock chips. Didn't want a respray or to do a clear wrap without perfecting whats underneath.
#40
I thought the term was just that, a detailed walk around the car fixing anything his keen eye runs across whether it be chips, swirls, dull smudges, clay bar, etc. If I pay 1500 I don't want add ons like chip fills. I want them to fix what they see in the best method available to them.
IE: paint correction!