I have a F-Type R, and the battery died due to that weird bug where the battery drains after a non-dealer checks the OBD port.

I hooked jumper cables between my two cars, specifically the battery terminals on the passenger side engine bay. But while the car’s electronics power up, the engine won’t start. I just hear clicks. Any ideas?

 

From all reports using the engine bay terminals doesn't work to jump the car with a really flat battery, instead you need to connect the jumper leads to the battery itself. If however the battery is so flat you can't even open the door(s) or the trunk/boot to access the battery then use the emergency key in the fob to open the left side door, then you can pull the lever to open the hood/bonnet and access the charging terminals. Then a battery tender and maybe jumper leads on those engine bay terminals will put enough juice into the battery to enable you to open the trunk/boot to then access the battery.

 

I think it may be not enough power/voltage being brought over from the other car. I'd take a look and see if you can get the power direct from a device to the battery terminals. Or could try turning off climate, screen to minimize power draw and see if that provides adequate power to start.

 

No, it's just too much resistance along the cables extending from the engine compartment to the battery.

 

Had this happen to me a couple weeks ago. Also had a battery booster sitting in my car for 2 years that did nothing to jump the car lol.

Just need to rev the other car to increase the peak amps. Imagine it like the other cars alternator is charging the jag.

That's how I got mine jumped.

 

Be careful not to fry electronics. Removing battery, trickle charging it, then starting the car that way is BY FAR cheaper than replacing burned-out modules.

 

We have had numerous examples on our other model forums of fried electronics because members have not followed the recommended emergency starting procedure. Here is the relevant extract from the F-Type Owner's Handbook detailing the procedures for jump starting or using a starting aid:





Direct connections to the battery are very risky.

Graham

 

I'd guess that people having difficulty jumpstarting from the underhood terminals possibly have corroded connections somewhere along the line to crank up the resistance?

 

That was my thought exactly. Another issue might be the connections to the battery are loose. A lot of people on this forum have reported the terminal bolts being tight but the terminal was loose on the battery post.

 

Depending on the cables, not always easy to clip the ground on that stud. I successfully jumped a dead SUV from the underhood points. I've also jumped my dead lawn tractor, but that doesn't really count.

 

I have found when a battery has been totally discharged, it may be necessary to let the boosting vehicle charge the dead battery for as much as 10-20 minutes before the dead car can be started.

 

Many jumper cables suck, too. Long ago, I bought a high quality pair with thick wires. They work when many others don't.

 

This is probably a dumb question, but if I have the two cars connected and the donor car's engine on, is that charging the battery of the F-type? I ask because I assumed it might be, so I did that and left the donor car engine on for probably an hour. But no dice.

 

Well, the generated electricity has got to go somewhere so it should be charging the batteries on both cars. You might need to rev the donor a bit to get the power up, though, not just ticking over. However, the "proper" way to go is to start your car from the donor and leave yours running once the donor has been disconnected.

 

Yes - it's charging the dead battery too. That's what can make it hard to jump your car if your battery is totally discharged. So connecting the donor car (engine running) for 10-20 mins before cranking the car with flat battery could help. Else remove and charge the dead battery first.

If the donor car can't charge the flat battery then it might be too discharged to be usable again.

 

+1. As in permanently dead.

 

Bad connection with your jumper cables, they have to clipped on tight.

 

Are you guys sure I should try attaching jump cables from the donor car to the trunk battery? Just making sure. Also does anyone have a pic of the negative terminal on the trunk battery? I just want to make sure I’m picking the right thing.

 

The battery cables are color coded. Black negative, red positive.The negative post is towards the back of the car.

 

There’s a metal post that looks like the negative terminal, which is basically under the back of the trunk. Is that it? And I just saw Graham’s note at the bottom of his post advising against connecting jump cables to the trunk battery terminals...