When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes...This is specifically for a 5.0L F Type R AWD with a full tank of gas. Others will be similar (but likely lighter) and will move the CBP back or forth a couple of inches, but a good enough proxy for lifting. Also, if you have the weights (measurements should be same or very close), the Excel calculator I made will allow anyone to get their CBP for their specific car (even non F-Types). The yellow numbers/letters in the image I posted are the inputs for the calc/formula.
I added a fuel component to my desktop calculator to account for fuel/wt. (using 1 Gal = ~6.3 Lbs. and capacity of 18.5 Gal) and the difference between full and empty, moves the CBP only 1.6 inches from front of car...Just FYI.
Maiden voyage/lift today (tested on my Sahara Unlimited first...just in case ). It lifts great, and the arms just fit under the car without driving on ramps, or wood, which is great. No creaking or popping, and the calculations above for CBP seemed spot on. It lifted and descended smooth and even. While I had it up, I cleaned and painted the rear Calipers with POR-15 Caliper red paint, and also thought I would check the rear differential fluid since I had some extra. It has been ~ 4K miles since I changed it (and it looked nasty when I changed it at 21K+ miles) . The Motul came out green and looked just like it came out of the bottle! No dirt/discoloration/etc.. The magnetic plug was still clean as well. I also wanted to check the fill level. The manual and others have said DO NOT FILL to fill hole...It takes 1.20 - 1.22 Quarts for wet fill. So I loaded up my new fluid pump with 1.2 Quarts and right when it started hissing (because fluid was out) it started seeping out of the hole...so at least for a 5.0 L R AWD, the fill hole is exactly where the right amount is..Just FYI. Also...took a quick look at MY DIY to refresh my memory, and the whole process took about 10-15 Minutes after having done it before.
Calipers look much better too. I actually went back over them with red engine paint, as the POR-15 Caliper Paint is like Porsche Guards Red...way too orange to match the fronts...Matches perfect now!
And best of all...I did not get crushed to death! I used two additional jacks on the arms for the first lift...Just to be sure. And I did not go all the way up, but I likely have another 1-2 feet if needed.
Overall...Good lift (MaxJax MK6) and with this and the Mid-Rise Scissor lift, I should be able to work on most anything I need to...
DC,
How much ground clearance is needed to drive over that lift?
Technically no clearance to drive over it, as the lift arms swing away...But if you are asking about clearance from the ground to the lift pads under the car it is 4.5" from ground to top of pad at lowest point. My car is lowered and it still fits (but barely). I see many folks driving up on 2X8's or similar to get the car up, but this one has low profile arms, so it fits. That saves a bunch of time and hassle.
Hope I answered your question. I pasted the specs below.
Can you take a picture of where you are placing your jack pads on the car underneath? I was surprised to see the maximum height was only 47". So will a chair with rollers fit underneath?
Can you take a picture of where you are placing your jack pads on the car underneath? I was surprised to see the maximum height was only 47". So will a chair with rollers fit underneath?
I do not have any from while it was up yesterday (pictures). But I have tried to demonstrate the lift points below. Yes, it is 47" (to bottom), or 50.5" if you put the extensions on the pads. It is actually plenty of room to do most anything. My ceilings are pretty high, but the garage door openers will get in the way if I tried to go up any further (unless I get new ones installed). That is why I bought this portable lift that will fit in lower garages, and can be moved out of the way and stored in ~ 15 minutes. I bought the creeper below and it is perfect to roll around under it when it is all the way up. Note, in my photos, I only had it up 2 clicks, as I was "testing" it for the first lift. It will go much further up.
Also posted an example of someone on the creeper under the car at full lift (it's not me...I do not have any more BMW's at the moment )
DC
Adjustable Creeper:
Jack Points: On the front, I overlap the edge of the pinch welds, and the uni-body front rail block. On the rear, I put the pad where the rear support member bolts to the chassis.
Technically no clearance to drive over it, as the lift arms swing away...But if you are asking about clearance from the ground to the lift pads under the car it is 4.5" from ground to top of pad at lowest point. My car is lowered and it still fits (but barely). I see many folks driving up on 2X8's or similar to get the car up, but this one has low profile arms, so it fits. That saves a bunch of time and hassle.
Hope I answered your question. I pasted the specs below.
DC
I have exactly 3.5” of clearance below the front disposable whiskers. Would they clear, or would I need to back over the lift?
Unhinged, these are shorter version of basic shop lifts...the arms swing out of the way so nothing to drive over. Just pull up in between them, swing the arms under the car and place the pads where they need to be and lift.
I have exactly 3.5” of clearance below the front disposable whiskers. Would they clear, or would I need to back over the lift?
The front lip won't hit, as you will have the arms swung open when you drive in. If you have 4.5" from the ground to the bottom of the car, just behind the front wheel...and just in front of the rear wheel, you should be fine. You swing the arms out of the way, drive between the posts, and then swing the arms back in and under the car. They also te!escope in and out to make them shorter and longer for easy positioning.
I have VAP lowering springs, so likely have similar clearance as you. When it warms up above -6, I will take some more pics for you. It is painful outside right now...-22F wind chill.
What tools do I need to remove the trim from the boot area? How do I pop all of those panels off without damaging them?
After the screws are removed (where there are screws), I just use my hands...not tools. Pull straight out and I have not damaged any to date. More likely to break when it is cold, so do it in a warm area.
Top Man...thanks for all the information...just need to teach people how to search for it!
Haha...Thanks! Maybe that should be my next DIY..."How to use the search feature on the Forums" Actually one of the reasons I put them all in one Thread.
02-02-2021, 07:24 AM
). It lifts great, and the arms just fit under the car without driving on ramps, or wood, which is great. No creaking or popping, and the calculations above for CBP seemed spot on. It lifted and descended smooth and even. While I had it up, I cleaned and painted the rear Calipers with POR-15 Caliper red paint, and also thought I would check the rear differential fluid since I had some extra. It has been ~ 4K miles since I changed it (and it looked nasty when I changed it at 21K+ miles) . The Motul came out green and looked just like it came out of the bottle! No dirt/discoloration/etc.. The magnetic plug was still clean as well. I also wanted to check the fill level. The manual and others have said DO NOT FILL to fill hole...It takes 1.20 - 1.22 Quarts for wet fill. So I loaded up my new fluid pump with 1.2 Quarts and right when it started hissing (because fluid was out) it started seeping out of the hole...so at least for a 5.0 L R AWD, the fill hole is exactly where the right amount is..Just FYI. Also...took a quick look at MY DIY to refresh my memory, and the whole process took about 10-15 Minutes after having done it before.
