Also, does anyone use the VAP tune which remaps the throttle curve. Does it let you turn on/off tune features while you drive? Can you post your 0-60 times with and without the faster throttle map that the VAP tune embeds?

 

Blinker Fluid - $18.95 : KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.

 

Many years ago I rode motorcycles.

The throttle (accelerator) was a rotary device that pulled a cable that lifted carburettor slides.

In other words direct acting, no electronic control.
Quick action throttle were available, larger diameter actuator meant smaller angular rotation would pull throttle cable a larger distance.

Did the bike produce any more power or torque ?
No it didn't, but it did make the rider perceive more responsive to throttle actuation.

This is equivalent to throttle mapping (in ecu).
No doubt some ecu remaps utilise this in addition to changes that can increase maximum power or torque.

Pretty certain that normal / rain mode / dynamic on F Type also varies this mapping, possibly amongst other parameters

 

Yup but the magic happens in the ECU. It decides when it sees the 100% throttle signal whether to give you 100% or 10%. Your device will only improve the input to that ECU by micro seconds which will make no perceivable difference to your 0-60 times and can't override how much power the ECU decides to give you. All it can do is make the car appear to be more responsive because the accelerator becomes more sensitive to input. It doesn't magically unlock any more power.

It can also be used to dampen the accelerator but my car already has some factory fitted buttons that do that so why would I spend hundreds of dollars on something else?

I will leave someone with more patience than me to explain, yet again, why you are wrong:

https://outbackjoe.com/macho-diverti...s-it-worth-it/

 

Nicely debunks this snake oil

 

Effectively debunks SGREENLYN's false narrative
"Disadvantages - Installing a sprint booster means the available travel in the accelerator pedal is not fully utilized. There is a large dead zone where the voltage sent to the engine management is 100%. This means you’ve lost precision in throttle control. You’ve lost resolution. Your ability to make small adjustments to throttle has been degraded. You can’t feather the throttle.

Using more throttle and having a more jerky driving style will cost you more fuel, wear out your car more and increase your chances of having an accident. It also encourages poor driving habits – for example accelerating hard then braking hard in stop / start traffic rather than just driving at a steady speed.

Offroad, a sprint booster makes it difficult to control your vehicle. Movement of your foot caused by vibration or bumps translates to much larger accidental changes to throttle then what would occur with a standard setup. Your ability to make small changes to throttle is compromised, yielding an amateur like driving style over rough terrain. Many sprint booster users will de-activate their sprint booster when offroading. Actually some vehicles automatically do the exact opposite of a sprint booster when low range is engaged in order to improve precise vehicle control. The disadvantages of sprint boosters whilst offroading are also present when on the road, but the effect is more pronounced offroad due to the rough terrain and the requirement to precisely control speed and torque whilst offroad."

 

"Conclusion
When it comes to pros and cons of a sprint booster it largely comes down to user preferences and opinion. In my opinion sprint boosters don’t offer any benefits, provided you have adequate articulation of your foot and leg. People perceive improved response with a sprint booster but, if they desired that response without the sprint booster, all they had to do is operate the accelerator pedal aggressively. It is simply a voltage amplifier and you can only ever have between 0 and 100% throttle regardless of how you amplify it. The response provided by a sprint booster can be perfectly replicated by pushing the accelerator pedal further, minus the almost imperceivable time it takes to move the pedal a bit more. A sprint booster adjusts the voltage signal that indicates accelerator pedal position. It’s extremely clear that the scope of a sprint booster’s control is limited to adjusting the apparent position of the accelerator pedal. Some sprint booster owners will argue the response can’t be emulated by pushing the pedal harder and faster. Most certainly it can. The system is very simple to evaluate. The laws of physics are extremely clear. The manufacturer themselves confirm it in their technical data. There is no claim to be made to the contrary unless the physics can be explained.

So in my opinion there is no advantage. Why be forced to be jerky with the throttle when you could have a choice? Why throw money at yet another electronic gizmo when it may not be necessary? The perceived advantages are not really there, but the disadvantages are real. I prefer having precision control over the vehicle’s throttle. I prefer driving smoothly, efficiently and safely. And I prefer spending less money on gizmos and more money on things that make me happy like getting out in nature and camping.

That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get a sprint booster. Many people like them. In fact I’d suggest that most people who’ve tried one like the result. People like the feel of the throttle response. Regardless of the fact that they can be perfectly replicated by pushing the pedal further, if you enjoy driving with a sprint booster then it’s a good thing. Try one out and see if you like it. However it is not a performance enhancement and won’t improve engine response or acceleration.

Possible Safety Issue
I doubt sprint booster manufacturers have performed detailed analysis of the accelerator pedal position transducer failure modes and how the ECU software detects and handles those failures. Therefore it’s possible that a sprint booster could mask a problem with the accelerator pedal and leave you with a stuck throttle without the ECU noticing. Similarly the sprint booster itself could fail and result in a stuck throttle. The risk is low, I’ve never heard of it happening, but it could happen."

Note that this article actually provides REFERENCES :icon_br icks:

 

This quote reminds me of how my bike works (throttle by wire). It has 4 modes: rain, sport, race, slick. Each mode alters throttle mapping and ECU torque maps. Rain gives a very lazy throttle, lowers hp by 25% (the only mode to do this) and limits torque when leaning - very sensible safety features. Each increased mode cages the nannies more and shortens the throttle throw - meaning less wrist movement for a given throttle opening. Slick mode removes all of the nannies and provides a 1/4 turn throttle - virtually un-rideable on the street since every bump in the road causes wrist twist.

I suspect that F-T works similarly in our 3 modes save the leaning aspect.

 

 

 

Agree, the nannified pedal-to-throttle body-opening-curves included with the F-Type (Snow-Rain Normal Dynamic) are selectable because not everyone wants a performance mode at all times, especially in a luxury brand. And obviously to make the car slow and docile in snow and rain.

So..... back to the original question, since it was never addressed:

Since the throttle body opening speed in Dynamic mode is quite laggy, how best to address it?

Yes I know that a "laggy" Dynamic mode will ruffle some feathers, but its a very common problem among high-end brands that need to accommodate both sugar and sugar daddy. Maserati, for example, is the absolute worst with excruciating delays from pedal-press to throttle body opening (though they view themselves as a luxury car). BMW has a 3 second throttle delay to WOT without a remap from a tune or dedicated chip. Mercedes: worse than BMW. All American brands: absolutely horrendous delays to WOT.

Here are our two options as I see them. Note: if you are happy with your nanny, and she is drop dead gorgeous, no need to chime in.

1. Tune
2. Throttle Remapping Chip

 

Apparently you are delirious. No, the throttle body is NOT "laggy" on the F-Type. To say so would be a bold-faced LIE.

You continue to ignore the ELEPHANT in the room. As has already been PROVEN in posted listed here, these external 3rd-party throttle re-mapping devices are A WASTE of money (aka SNAKE OIL) AKA Faker than Dolly Pardon's ****. No manner of wasteful, un-founded posting is going to be able to drive people to this device so please, stop wasting this space. It ain't gonna happen.

In STARK CONTRAST to your post, tunes are reliable and HAVE and WILL add UP TO 650 HP so there isn't REALLY any debate here ... except apparently inside that noggin of yours. It the shell of it made of lead because it seems that nothing is getting through

 

Is there an eye-roll emote?

#2 above does NOTHING. After 90 posts, and measurements and science proving this, you still do not believe it. Remember there is less than a 75 millisecond delay in the pedal-to-ECU. I am still waiting with my popcorn, for your response to that. It seems the presentation of facts and science have been ignored and the premise of time travel in the gas pedal is still being relied on for results.

 

I especially like the irony here in "if you are afflicted with deafness"

This means the OP is both peddling snake oil and NEEDS snake oil. Truly fascinating.

The 4 Characteristics of Snake-Oil Salespeople

.

 

Wow...Doesn't this ring particularly familiar in the current political environment?

 

Case Closed. 2016 Jag F-Type V6S test...

0-60 Stock Throttle Map in Dynamic D Mode: 5.754 seconds*
0-60 With Throttle Remap in Dynamic D Mode: 5.554 seconds*

* Accuracy is within 0.016 seconds

Kinda amazing that my estimate in the OP was spot-on perfect.

 

Yeah it's amazing how you can type literally anything online and claim it is true.

By the way, are you pressing the pedal fully? There's a "notch" at the end. If you don't know how to use the gas pedal properly, refer to the owners manual.

This device would definitely make the car go faster if the driver does not know how to fully press the gas pedal, or physically can not floor the pedal.

Case closed indeed. Now we know it's either operator error, OR you're a charlatan. If you're not operating the gas pedal properly, you would indeed "make the car faster" by installing one of these. I'm repeating myself because you've shown a tendency to not listen.

It is as you said, amazing really. You're not even good at this, which is why in my first reply I suggested you turn in your resignation to your boss.



Watch I will do the exact same thing now:


Post #1:

Hey guys, my F-type will get faster from adding these stickers. I'm sure of it.
But, it is ESSENTIAL that you use snake oil to prepare the window surface before applying them.

Post # 96:

Case Closed:

0-60 without stickers: 5.75 seconds*
0-60 with stickers applied after using snake oil to prepare the glass surface: 5.55 seconds*

* Accuracy is within 0.01 femtoseconds



This is identical to what you've done here.

There, we have both proven that we know how to operate a keyboard, and we both relied equally on science and data.

More interesting reading:
What Is Confirmation Bias?

 

"* Accuracy is within 0.016 seconds"

The smell of BS is strong....

 

 

2nd Trial processed. These two from the same starting point but a little farther down the road, difference could be slope.

Case Closed (again). 2016 Jag F-Type V6S test two...

0-60 Stock Throttle Map in Dynamic D Mode: 5.471 seconds*
0-60 With Throttle Remap in Dynamic D Mode: 5.155 seconds*

* Accuracy is within 0.016 seconds

Kinda amazing that my estimate in the OP was spot-on perfect.