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Timing/Chain Grinding + Engine Noise on SVR?

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Old 02-13-2020, 07:01 PM
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Default Timing/Chain Grinding + Engine Noise on SVR?

First time poster - apologies if this has been asked. I searched and didn't see anything related so here goes:

I'm sending a mechanic tomorrow to check out a 2017 F-type SVR to purchase. He told me that SVR's tend to have timing/chain grinding (sludge build up) and a constant noise that sounds like the engine is broken. In addition, water pump issues. Anyone have any insights they can share with me before I take the plunge?

Thank you, and hope to be an owner soon.
 

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Old 02-13-2020, 07:29 PM
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The SVR has the exact same V8 (5.0 litre AJ133 SC) as the R, just tuned to 575 PS from the R's 550 PS, and it has no extra noises or problems over the R.
Yes, this engine is known to have timing chains/guides/tensioner problems but by 2017 revised parts reduced the problem a lot and regular oil changes (twice as often as scheduled) help reduce it even further. The water pump is also a problem on some engines but not usually until the mileage approaches 100,000.
Another reasonably common problem that causes noise is a worn coupler/torsion isolator in the snout of the supercharger, search this forum for info on it.
But even without these problems it's an inherently noisy engine, mainly a pronounced "tick tick tick" from the very high pressure fuel injectors and rattles from the secondary high pressure fuel pumps and the SC belt tensioner.
 
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Old 02-13-2020, 09:09 PM
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Thanks OzXFR --- the mechanic is reviewing the car tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for the insights. Fingers crossed the car looks good and will be in my garage soon.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:07 AM
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I forgot one thing - the SVR does sound a little more rattly than the R purely because it comes without the sound deadening (and heat trapping) engine cover that the R comes with.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 07:47 AM
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You really know your car guts - thank you - I wonder if I can get an R engine cover put on if the rattles bug me.
Thanks so much for your reply.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JaguarSVRorR
You really know your car guts - thank you - I wonder if I can get an R engine cover put on if the rattles bug me.
Thanks so much for your reply.
There are plenty of people here that have removed theirs, myself included. Finding one that's currently just taking up storage space and could use a new home should not be a problem. As I recall, you'd need the posts it sits on, and maybe a bracket too? Still, hardly a major undertaking.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:25 AM
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I believe that F-Type R's came with the engine cover. It's just the later model SVR's that have it omitted. I purchased a cover for my SVR and after driving in very hot weather the temperature never moved from dead center...
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FeralSVR
I believe that F-Type R's came with the engine cover. It's just the later model SVR's that have it omitted.
I second your belief, though as it's a fact, not much belief needed.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:02 PM
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unless your chain is making ALOT of noise...the timing setup on all the AJ's is like a loud sewing machine. you have to separate the ticking of the injectors and the HP Fuel pump noises from the actual timing chain.

What i would do if i was worried, stand up front hood up next to the oil fill cap and listen while someone starts your car after it has sat overnight, it will sound bad at first as the tensioners pump up and the chain is re-lubed. (this is your baseline for noise) now let it warm up, 4-5 minutes....does it still sound like it did or did it quiet way down to mostly some consistent ticking and such? if it did odds are its not your timing...another test is after its warmed up, with the engine running open the oil fill cap (engine will stutter and recover, may even throw a CEL, but it will go away once you put the cap back on and start the car a few times). Listen to the noises coming from the fill neck...do they sound like a smooth sewing machine? or a metal slapping/rattle noise? this method is harder to tell if you haven't heard a good/bad chain.

as stated above the sludge issue isn't any different then any other V8 AJ. change your oil at 3000 miles and you will be fine, also the water pump issues are mostly all taken care of at this point with warranty work, and you "shouldn't" have another issue with it.

i bet the "engine broken noise" is a horrible rattle coming from the intake area, its just the SC coupler rattling and the noise is "normal" but it should only do it while its cold and maybe once in a while warm, usually the rattle is caused by a misfire, unless its cold. Some do it and some don't.

Record a video of both your cold start and your warm engine noise if you want a 2nd opinion other then your mechanic. Most of these sounds are clearly heard and have been discussed in depths on here.
 
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Old 02-14-2020, 02:18 PM
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Our local dealer had a do the other night to do a show and tell on a Project 8 they had on loan for a week. The bonnet was open when the salesman started the engine to let us hear the exhaust noise but he quickly shut the bonnet when he heard how much noise the engine was making because it was cold!

It actually sounded a lot worse than my '10 XKR does and my high pressure fuel pumps are particularly noisy when cold!


 
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Old 02-14-2020, 03:19 PM
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Invest in a 20 or $30 automotive stethoscope. It’s easy to identify the source of any of the ticking or rattling sounds.
 
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Old 02-23-2020, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JaguarSVRorR
You really know your car guts - thank you - I wonder if I can get an R engine cover put on if the rattles bug me.
Thanks so much for your reply.
One reason they removed the engine cover is due to the additional HP and Heat Soak. It was removed for more cooling. Not that it would likely explode, but I would give some thought before I put an engine cover on the engine, that was removed for cooling. When I added some HP to mine, I removed the cover also. Heat soak is a killer and HP robber

On my Porsche 997 Turbo, one of my best mods after a tune and exhaust, was upgraded intercoolers to quickly recover from high IATs. At about 120 degrees IAT +/-, I could lose ~30 HP from timing adjustment to prevent pre-detonation.

Again...likely not going to explode, but the cover WAS removed for a reason.

Good luck,
DC
 
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