Well, with only 22K miles on my newly acquired minty V8-S, I purchased it (after a 2 hours dealer inspection) knowing there were zero known issues with the exception of a slight smell of antifreeze in the engine bay and an assumed leak (no measurable coolant loss though after several hundred miles).

So right out of the chute, its time to do the full overhaul of the stock pipes (dreaded Y-pipe) and all plastic hoses, fittings, etc. At the same time while it's all torn down, we're going to replace the water pump, thermostat, supercharger oil, SC coupler, SC and accessory drive belts, flush the coolant (and diff fluid), add the Mina Gallery upper intake tube kit (to replace all that crap intake plastic), and then button it back up. A great, local indy shop is allowing me to purchase all the parts, fluids, and leg work and they will be doing the labor.

I'm excited to run across Euro Amp (their tech guy Christian is a rockstar) who has been super helpful and has all the latest metal aluminum replacement components, including the new aluminum thermostat cyclops. Here is their base kit I will be using (does not show the new metal aluminum thermostat): https://euro-amp.com/collections/jag...charged-engine

So I ran across a thread on this site of another F-Type owner addressing the same issues and a picture of the old parts he removed. But for the life of me, I cannot find that thread again to ask this question. I have been digging and digging trying to identify two hoses he changed but I cannot identify them. Anyone got an idea? It believe the long one is located under the SC but ??. Obviously changing any and all weak links here is a no-brainer and cheap insurance to future headaches. So wanting to replace any and all I can.... one time!




Finally, here's a pic of Euro Amp's new metal / aluminum thermostat that I am pretty jazzed about including in the overhaul:

 

all parts in the picture came from my car and I did the job by myself,
so the answer to your question is :
The long tube is located under the SC and connects the upper outlet of the rear crossover
pipe (swirl pot) to the the throttle body. This line is fixed to the bottom of the SC and can only
be changed by removing the SC.
The short tube connects the thermostat housing to the front crossover tube (see picture)
The new metal thermostat housing looks great. Next time I have to deal with the cooling system
it will be on my shopping list.

Regards
Ulrich

 

Terrific, Ulrich! Yes.... f-Driver. Should have remembered that handle! You 'da man!! Your original thread helped me a bunch and got me pointed in the right direction with Euro Amp, etc.

Thanks for the response and clarification on the long, under SC tube-- gonna replace that one for sure. Also I think the other small thermostat connecting tube came with the kit so I believe I am good to go there.

I'll update you hopefully with some pictures in progress! Cheers!

 

Could either of you please link to the thread you're talking about? Thanks

 

LaserMark4 thank you SO MUCH for posting that new thermostat housing!!
Another great after market solution to the disintegrating factory plastic parts.

At this rate we just "might" get all of them replaced with Aluminum!!
Took me a while to find but it is listed on Euro-Amps web site for $125
Aluminum Thermostat Housing

Also listed on EBay;
Euro-Amp Thermostat Housing

I will post this on as all of us 3.0L and 5.0L guys are in the same position. Waiting for various plastic cooling parts to fail and burning up the engine or leaving us stranded somewhere!

Plus this DOES fit the 5.0L NA which has been left out on some of these improved parts.
Only thing to watch out for is there are ones with a sensor and ones without a sensor. So do check yours before ordering.
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Be aware that not ALL thermostat housings are identical. Our tech discovered that, when he had everything apart. EuroAMP offered to exchange, but we opted to obtain the proper piece from JLR so that we wouldn't tie up his shop..

"Slight smell of anti-freeze"? We lived with that for years, from 14K miles to 35K miles. The coolant loss was really small. The issue in our case was the water pump.

 

All done and some testing

 

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, dangoesfast. Here's a couple threads that have been most helpful in dialing in the parts list and what I think makes sense to change out if one is going to take off the supercharger for the Y-pipe replacement:

1. Member "adent" did two (2) great install guides I've found. This one is the replacement of the Y-Pipe/ lower coolant pipes (in 2020 possibly before the metal aluminum pipes were available). Find that here with extensive additional member comments: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-guide-241372/

2. Perhaps ever better and more complete is adent's 2nd guide-- on removing the supercharger (which is a required step in the Y-pipe removal and replacement) and other pipe replacement procedures. Find that one here: https://classicairheads.com/blog/202...r-replacement/

3. Member Ulrich's ("f-driver") whose picture I originally referred to posted a good guide on SC oil change, etc found here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...emoval-240551/

4. Finally, member "therock88" posted some GREAT DIY assistance threads he created here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...thread-242078/

Mark S.

 

Thanks for the heads up. Great tip and suggestion. I'm double checking on the parts compatibility after your comments with Euro Amp.

As far as antifreeze smell and possibly waiting for something to happen, I keep reading of all the catastrophic engine failures folks are having with their F-Types with coolant ruptures/failures. Here's one that just posted today that sounds like they are on their way to a 2nd Y-Pipe failure in only 29k miles: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ilures-276716/

So my take on the prolific and numerous coolant leak and failure issues lies in the infamous words of 'ole Clint Eastwood.... "You have to ask yourself, do you feel lucky? Well, do 'ya punk?" Ha ha. I guess I feel more comfortable taking luck out of the equation and taking "an ounce of prevention to hopefully create a pound of cure."

Finally, I am surprised at how reasonably priced all these preventative replacement parts are amounting to-- like $600 USD for a boatload of the best metal parts, gaskets, belts, etc. (obviously labor is on top of that). But seems like a very small price for long-term trouble free performance.

 

You are very welcome. And thanks for your added links and suggestions as well.

My particular V8-S thermostat does not have the sensor. Also, the price for the metal/aluminum thermostat is a bit cheaper from Euro Amp if it is purchased with the base kit ($100 extra). I think well worth it to not have to hopefully replace it for years to come, right? Motor on!!

 

Just wanted to add that those threads from therock88 are very well done.

I swear that I have always smelled a whiff of anti freeze under the hood regardless if my car was leaking anything or not? I guess I am just gun shy and ready to jump into action anytime I smell anti freeze! Just seems to be a constant thing.
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