Hi guys,

I will start tracking my 2015 Coupe R a lot more next year and partake in the Swedish Time Attack series among other things. I am a novice to racing but tracked my F-type three times in 2018 (twice in Sweden and once at the Nurburgring) and totally, completely fell in live with it.

However, I realize that the F-Type isn't the ideal track toy and I would like to keep its GT credentials to some extent as well, so now comes the challenge to do relevant modifications to it in order for it to perform better at the track while still OK to take on road trips.

FType17 gave me a list of priorities in another thread:
1. Weight saving (wheels at the minimum)
2. Suspension (anti roll bars, springs, shocks)
3. Power (tune, pulley)
4. Tires

As I am also new to car modifications/ tuning I would really appreciate some guidance in following the list above.

Wheels: I currently have a spare set of gyrodynes with a set of ContiForceContacts on that I just bought, just for tracking. What kind of wheels save weight? Would that change tire dimensions?

Suspension: Is anti roll bars the best place to start? If so, any recommendations? If I change shocks, will that have an impact on the adjustable suspension, so it's not adjustable through changing driving modes? Springs - can I get harder springs without lowering the car? I'd prefer not to lower it for aesthetic reasons. If so, any recommendations?

Power: Is it recommended to do an engine tune without changing other things, such as air intakes? Can you do changes like changing pulley yourself, or is that better done by a pro?

Grateful for any input! Also, if you have your times around the Nurburgring feel free to share.

 

If tracking, you'll need to take strength in account too when looking for wheels.
I.e. wheel that can safely take the abuse of curbstones and tracks like the ring...
Some brands do have for track intended - or track focused for that matter - wheels, that are both light and strong.
I have good experiences with Team Dynamics, that do offer wheels for both ralley and track race - a very popular trackday/race wheel being their Pro Race 1.2.
Pretty cheap, light and very solid. Note the bigger the wheel/tire combination, in general the heavier.
Light and solid as well, some types of Rota, OZ, Enkei, but then again, check for brand recommendations in regard to track use!

 

Weight savings is where I'd focus first. Our cars are a bit too porky, I believe most RWD R's weigh in at 3800-3850 lbs stock. Track days are tough on brakes and tires, so they need attention too. Factory wheels are pretty heavy, a forged wheel, or at least a "flow formed/forged" alloy can save you about 10 lbs or more per wheel - but can be expensive. Stick with established brands, and as others have said, a track focused wheel would be a plus. VAP valvetronic exhaust will save you 15 lbs, wortec rotors about 50 lbs, lithium battery (and 2nd battery delete) will save you almost 60 lbs. Do all of those and you have knocked 150 lbs plus off the car. VAP exhaust will also make it easier to hear the engine, I find it helpful to be a bit louder than stock at the track so I can hear my car over the others.

I'm a power junkie and modify engines frequently, but for track purposes, I'd consider leaving the engine stock. It's not like the F type R is under powered in stock form, and I think you'll find faster track times come from improving driver technique, better tires, and possibly suspension mods (lowering springs/bigger roll bars), than adding additional power. Plus there is the engine longevity issue to consider. Many power mods come at the expense of the extra safety cushion manufacturers build in, on a hot track day with less than perfect fuel, you may want that extra cushion.

Just my 2 cents...

 

I will elaborate on the list (it's in order of priority)

1. Weight saving (wheels at the minimum)
Forged wheels - saves you around 10-12lbs per wheel
DO NOT SWAP YOUR ROTORS, yes, you will save weight and your rotors will run a lot hotter. Also, it's idiotic to make that much of a change to unsprung weight without re-calibrating your suspensions... and even if we let that be... the lower rotor mass will allow it to heat up much more quickly so you will need to jump into some really heady duty racing pads.
The battery is an option but lot of $$$$/Lb in my opinion
Take the passenger seat out for the race

2. Suspension (anti roll bars, springs, shocks)
Anti-roll bars make the biggest difference, that would be #1, followed by a set of Eibach springs (not H&R nor the other junk one). It will not lower the car as much but the progression of the rate is just perfect. You will then either setup a recalibration box for the stock Bilstein or put a set of 2-way adjustable Koni shocks.

3. Power (tune, pulley)
You have a healthy pick of tunes out there. The forum is enamored with one specific vendor and I would suggest you look at the power/torque curves before making your selection. Look for low end. You will notice that some are good just at the top of the rev range.

4. Tires
Best track tire that I tried, Falken FK510, followed by Continental Forcecontact, Continental Extremecontact SPORT, Pirelli PZero and MIchelin are pretty similar. The less capable drivers find the better Michelin initial bite to help them... I like the PzEro predictability much better.

I'd encourage you to follow suggestions provided by technical people with racing experience and proven track results. When I read about cutting springs, looks, unjustified wider front tires I just remind myself that there are a lot of sofa racers out there...

 

Thanks a lot for your elaborative answer!

Wheels: Do you think my personal prio #1 should still be wheels, even though I have a separate spare set of Jaguar Gyrodyne wheels + a new set of ContiForceContacts to wrap them in? Or does it make sense to try to run with that this first season and migrate to a lighter set next year? Or - should I sell the Gyrodynes, keep the tires and get a new set of lighter, forged wheels? If the latter, do you like KVO recommend Team Dynamics, and should I keep the same dimensions as stock? EDIT: I just realized the wheels I have on now with my Michelin PS4S's are forged - I have the Jaguar Carbon Blades. I couldn't find any weight stats at all though, so I have no clue whether they are good or not?

Suspension: Sorry for displaying my lack of knowledge, but does the car already have anti roll bars so this should be about changing them to stiffer ones? Or should I install something new that's not there? If so, is this reversible? Any tips regarding what anti roll bars I should be going for? The Eibach springs I found, and I know where I can get help with the install and calibration, thanks.

I feel really clueless, but I guess you need to start somewhere…

 

 

Yeah well, I see this argument like telling a new runner not to invest in better running shoes. Yes of course it won't make a big difference in comparison to tons of practice, but it will very likely have *some* impact and most importantly - it's FUN.

I wouldn't do any of this if it wasn't for my own enjoyment - there's no other purpose. I wouldn't even own the car in the first place - my F-Type is not my daily driver, it's my toy. I love tracking my F-Type and I love spending time in front of the computer and in the garage trying to figure out how to make iterative improvements to it, given my usage pattern. Whether it shaves 0.01, 1 or 10 seconds off my lap time.

Good point about getting instructions though, that I will do as well.

 

Perhaps I did not mention getting nstruction, but I was under the impression that it was understood.
My suggestions are to give you the best tool to learn and develop, I did not go into hardcore changes such as gutting unnecessary parts, full underbody coverings, changes to the alignment based on specific tracks, changes to the front and rear track etc. Those are fine tuning things that YOU will want to adopt when you master your F-Type in time. Both of my F-Type are, just like you, fun toys. I track them for fun, blowing off steam, relaxation etc.
Gyrodyne wheels are heavy. Look for a set of forged wheels. I would also suggest you swap the brake pads for EBC Yellowstuff (alternatively Porterfield R4 NOT R4S).
Shoes (tires) can make a big difference.
I raced professionally since the age of 16. I don't race for fun but to win. Take it as you like, but track is for fun, race is what it is. It will take you time to master the V8 RWD, just take the time and don't be afraid to push it where it's safe. You will know when you can consistently predict the car's behavior. That's when you will know that you can get every faction of a second out of it.

Remember, TIME ATTACKS are a display of confidence in your abilities and your car
Race against other drivers are based on strategy first and foremost. Don't be ashamed of running most of the race as #2, it gives you the opportunity to stress less, pressure #1 to make a mistake and ultimately take over when you are close to the end and confident in your skills and car.

Usually you will not do well at the beginning but since confidence is built over time, know that you will eventually do very well and be able to get every bt the F-Type can give you. Tracks have a fair share of bullies and people that will tell you how bad the F-Type is, laugh, sharpen your skills and in the end you will laugh at them.

NEVER start hard on any track, your first lap is all about looking, the second is about feeling and after that slowly push yourself to master each turn one at the time from the first one. Don't waste your focus on all of them at once. You will develop muscle memory and once that is in place you can focus on putting that "predictability" you learned to push it to 90% of the limits. Leave 10% for the unexpected. NEVER go out and race at the edge or you will get frustrated when any small mistake costs you time. Easy does it.

During time track events, I put in a couple of hard laps followed by a fun lap to break the tension and frustration. For me that works best, then I go again two laps hard. Don't overdrive the car and especially the tires. The tires can be permanently damaged if you overheat them resulting in the compound having less grip.

 

Thanks for the advice, really appreciate it and really need it. I do understand that all we've been discussing are very light modifications to - like you say - allow me to learn and develop. This is exactly what I am after. I am a novice, I have no illusion of anything else.

Regarding the wheels, I spent most of yesterday googling for alternatives and like KVO mentioned Team Dynamics seems like a good option, with Pro Race 1.2 or 1.3. But since neither of them exist off the shelf in the same dimensions as the F-Type standard (9x20 & 10,5x20), should I change dimensions? Do you mind sharing what you're having on your V8?

 

You might get some real inspiration from the people that actually work on the GT4 cars.

It may seem a bit extreme, But these guys are making a living out of racing the F.

http://www.davidapplebyengineering.com/shop/productdetails/Jaguar_F_Type_GT4_Specification_Induction_Kit/768

...does a few bits, but there are many more if you search.

 

Taking inspiration from a racing team with a multimillion dollar budget that managed to end the few races they entered at the bottom and showing no improbment? LOL I love the F-Type as many of you do, but let's be realistic please.

 

Perhaps because it is a pro-am series and they are frequently rotating through new amateur wounded warrior drivers who have never really raced before? These guys gave (literally) parts of their bodies for Queen and Country. They aren't supposed to be Professionals.

 

jlsthlm, I just retired my 2016 F-Type R from track duties this month. It was an awesome ride. But, at the limit, the big cat is a handful. I'll probably get bashed for saying this, but are you sure you want to track the RWD 2015 model??? Mine was an AWD 2016 and again, at the limit, you have to be super careful. I can't imagine running nearly as agressive concerned that the rear will step out on you - particularly in a less grip situation such as wet/cold tires / gravel / unweighted hills.

My tire progression was the Continental ForceContact -> Michelin Cup 2s -> Dunlop Race Maxx. Starting with the Cup2s I went to the 265s on the front, and 305s on the rear - which led to a large confidence boost. They fit on the 20" wheels no problem. As far as overall "feel", I loved the Continentals. But for net speed, the Dunlops were the quickest.

I did not mod my car in any way. My local Jag tech was a racer, and super good mechanic, and helped get the max camber on the fronts - which was like only 1 degree more, the rears are unadjustable.

I tracked the car for 2 years about 5 events per year and will tell you that it took that long for me to really get to know the car - its good and bad habits, its likes and dislikes.

My strong advice is to stay OEM initially, and progress with one mod at a time and only after you give it a good couple of trips to the track to make sure you know what it wants next. This is how the most advanced racers do it. To do it all once is like trying trying to change multiple dance steps all in one song. Its not going to look good and might trip you up.

FIND A SKID PAD and practice, practice, practice.

 

Thanks a lot for your reply!

Like I mentioned in a previous post, I purchased a set of ContiForceContacts but I won't be able to try them out until ~April at the earliest due to our Swedish winter (and they'll likely not remove the sand from the roads until May). But great to know that the Cup 2's fit on the OEM rims - that opens up the possibility to get a set of Cup 2's without getting new wheels.

But didn't you find the F-Type's suspension to be a bit soft? I feel like the car is swaying considerably in sharp turns while on the track. I think you're making a good point that I should change one thing at a time starting with track tires, but right now I'm quite confident that I will want to stiffen up the suspension somewhat, either with both sway bars and stiffer springs or just starting with the springs.

 

 

This resonates very well with my own feeling - thanks for confirming!

Happy new year!

 

That's what anti-roll bars (sway bars) are the #1 suspension modification needed for handling...

 

Great contribution to the thread, that will certainly make his car better on track.
Now, to address the unwarranted off topic response... I DID AS WELL Stuart. I don't expect anyone's thank you or praise for my service.
It's a nice gesture no doubt but it's not helping the F-Type shine...
The reality of racing is that you race to win, not to fail. With that said Stuart, please don't drag me into your moral attacks.

 

Stuart , I did not realize that the team included 'wounded warriors' at times so thanks for this information. As much as I believe a race team is designed around winning races, this heartfelt or selfless action scores big in my books.
Lawrence

 

Ughhhh....