Originally Posted by Mulmur

Stuart , I did not realize that the team included 'wounded warriors' at times so thanks for this information. As much as I believe a race team is designed around winning races, this heartfelt or selfless action scores big in my books.
Lawrence

Originally Posted by FType17

I will elaborate on the list (it's in order of priority)

1. Weight saving (wheels at the minimum)
Forged wheels - saves you around 10-12lbs per wheel
DO NOT SWAP YOUR ROTORS, yes, you will save weight and your rotors will run a lot hotter. Also, it's idiotic to make that much of a change to unsprung weight without re-calibrating your suspensions... and even if we let that be... the lower rotor mass will allow it to heat up much more quickly so you will need to jump into some really heady duty racing pads.
The battery is an option but lot of $$$$/Lb in my opinion
Take the passenger seat out for the race

2. Suspension (anti roll bars, springs, shocks)
Anti-roll bars make the biggest difference, that would be #1, followed by a set of Eibach springs (not H&R nor the other junk one). It will not lower the car as much but the progression of the rate is just perfect. You will then either setup a recalibration box for the stock Bilstein or put a set of 2-way adjustable Koni shocks.

3. Power (tune, pulley)
You have a healthy pick of tunes out there. The forum is enamored with one specific vendor and I would suggest you look at the power/torque curves before making your selection. Look for low end. You will notice that some are good just at the top of the rev range.

4. Tires
Best track tire that I tried, Falken FK510, followed by Continental Forcecontact, Continental Extremecontact SPORT, Pirelli PZero and MIchelin are pretty similar. The less capable drivers find the better Michelin initial bite to help them... I like the PzEro predictability much better.

I'd encourage you to follow suggestions provided by technical people with racing experience and proven track results. When I read about cutting springs, looks, unjustified wider front tires I just remind myself that there are a lot of sofa racers out there...

Originally Posted by H.Jones

I'll start off by saying sorry to the OP, I have no intention of hijacking your thread, but I have bolded and colored in red text a specific part of "FType17" post below, and I am not looking to disagree, but I am genuinely curious about some of the points he has brought up specifically pertaining to the weight savings.

I do not own a F-Type, but I do own a XFR-S, and I have done quite a bit of modifications to it. I did start off by changing to a two piece rotor in lieu of the stock rotors, as a lot of the F-Type owners had done, and I am curious, other than having less mass and heat concerns, the comment specifically in regards to "DO NOT SWAP YOUR ROTORS, yes, you will save weight and your rotors will run a lot hotter. Also, it's idiotic to make that much of a change to unsprung weight without re-calibrating your suspensions...".

It is documented very clearly that the 2 piece rotors offer a significant weight saving over stock, I think a total of 46lbs less than stock setup, with the bulk of that from the front rotors, so its not an even split between all 4 corners. Why would you discourage someone from doing this from a suspension standpoint?, and overall reduction of rotational and unsprung mass standpoint? Again not looking to disagree, but genuine curiosity and willingness to learn.

Originally Posted by FType17

I will elaborate on the list (it's in order of priority)
4. Tires
Best track tire that I tried, Falken FK510, followed by Continental Forcecontact, Continental Extremecontact SPORT, Pirelli PZero and MIchelin are pretty similar. The less capable drivers find the better Michelin initial bite to help them... I like the PzEro predictability much better.
..

Originally Posted by Awd

Originally Posted by FType17

You don't need a roll cage to mount a 4 or 5 point seat-belt system. You can have a setup that uses the 4 bolts that anchor the seat plus 2 points in the alcove behind the seat. It requires 2 small M10 (10mm) holes in the black carpeting material (alcove).

Originally Posted by mlebofsky

What are people's experience with the CG Lock?
CG-Lock Seat Belt Lock Out for Performance Driving : FT-86 Speedfactory - Your exclusive source for FR-S, BRZ, and GT-86 parts!
If/when you remove it, does it leaver marks in the OEM seatbelt?

Originally Posted by jlsthlm

THANK YOU! Great to know!

Have you done this in your cars? You don't happen to have pictures to share?