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Valved exhaust does not make sense on a track car. It is heavier due to having valves that ought to be open all the time while you are on the track anyways.
Valved exhaust does not make sense on a track car. It is heavier due to having valves that ought to be open all the time while you are on the track anyways.
That is a very good point. I just don't like having a button in the car that doesn't work... argh, OCD vs logic.
Re-purpose this button to fire suppression system? You do plan to have full cage and fire suppression system, right?
No, of course not. Club regulations require the car to be streetable and pass vehicle inspection, so I am for sure not going full race car spec this year.
I will go roll cage at the same time as I go bucket seats, 5 point harness, HANS gear, remove airbags (ie racing steering wheel) and clean out the interior. For now, the built-in rollover protection together with the intact airbags (as no harness or HANS gear) will suffice.
Sounds like a ****ing blast, think you've got most of your bases covered.
Let us know how involved that carbon roof install gets, very interested in that conversion myself
I'll keep you posted! Found the instructions in the F-Type Repair manual and it doesn't look too complicated, so I'm hoping any car glass repair place can get it done.
make sure you keep a good eye on your coolant levels and your coolant lines, if there is any weak point of this engine its the coolant lines.
Good point, I had problems with coolant leaks on my previous F-Type R.
Just saw your signature by the way... holy crap an R34 GTR and an S15 Spec R?! If you bought those two a couple of years ago you have for sure made a fantastic investment, beating the stock market by a multiple! You mind posting some pictures?
Yeah yeah, *every single time* I try to discuss track mods on a forum someone tries to sound smart and throws this in. I have a Fuji Speedway license and I drive on track at least once per month. This wouldn't be my first time competing in Time Attack either. I have a fair bit of track experience and have had a fair bit of training and coaching as well. I know the ideal racing lines by heart of the tracks I will be driving. It really doesn't mean that I am a pro though, far from it, but the low hanging fruit in terms of lap seconds is already picked.
I am doing this for *fun*, and part of the fun for me is toying with the car. If you read my post above you should know that I have already done #2 and #3.
I'm not trying to sound smart. I'm going off the tried and true reality of what I've seen from my experience. I spent 15 years racing, was a trackday co-owner for 6 years, an on track instructor for 9 years and licensed people to race. Even after years of racing and winning, the best return I got was from one on one coaching with a gentleman named Ken Hill.
I did read your post and saw the mods you did. I was simply emphasizing that number 1 has a much greater return than 2 or 3.
I'm not trying to sound smart. I'm going off the tried and true reality of what I've seen from my experience. I spent 15 years racing, was a trackday co-owner for 6 years, an on track instructor for 9 years and licensed people to race. Even after years of racing and winning, the best return I got was from one on one coaching with a gentleman named Ken Hill.
I did read your post and saw the mods you did. I was simply emphasizing that number 1 has a much greater return than 2 or 3.
Fair enough. However, I didn't ask for advice of how to shave seconds of my lap time. I asked for advice in terms of modifications that can be done to my F-Type to make it more track capable.
Anyways, sorry if I sounded rude, that wasn't my intention.
Fair enough. However, I didn't ask for advice of how to shave seconds of my lap time. I asked for advice in terms of modifications that can be done to my F-Type to make it more track capable.
Anyways, sorry if I sounded rude, that wasn't my intention.
I get it. The internet doesn't convey tone. Enjoy your track time.
Bravo on the roof conversion.
I just had a track day in my 2017 V6-MT at Club Motorsport in Tamworth, NH, run by MassTuning, a non competitive group.
I discovered that the F-type was heavy and that I was wanting more torque (from my stock 340 hp engine).
But the real speed limiting factor was from the Toyo Proxes 4+ (high performance all season?) tires, which were complaining on every corner, and heavy braking zone, leading to understeer on turn in, and oversteer on power out.
This lead to some high pucker-factor recoveries... so many in fact I had pucker fatigue at the end of the day.
In general my V-6 behaves great on Grand Touring drives in the country, but the track day revealed the limits of my tires after 2 corners.
To be fair I was also hunting around a bit for the best tire pressures, ending up at about 38~39 psi hot readings.
Otherwise the car handled well and did not give me any surprise responses, even over a few off-camber corners.
The only modification my car has is @Unhingd short shifter... which was great.. no missed shifts, I must have been at least 2 micro-seconds faster around the course.
Carbon roof installation done now, no issues (yet)!
Total cost for roof, headliner and installation ended at ~4 500 USD.
hmm.. If you are a tall driver, (>190 cm, >6ft3in) then you may want to remove the headliner (which is a real b!#$% to get out) to gain some more helmet room.
I had some restriction on my helmet motion to the left due to lack of head room (I am 6ft 3in).
Thankfully, the track was ClockWise (mostly right hand turns).
I did notice that you still have the rear cargo cover installed... removing it will lead to an easy few kilos of weight removal.
Ditto on the engine cover... which also traps heat (bad).
I found that my standard brakes (silver) were adequate for 20 minutes sessions, but I do recommend turning off Traction Control to avoid excessive brake action.
The DTC setting seemed to limit the intensity of my pucker factor moments, so I will need to experiment with turning it totally off next event.
One more tip, after completing a track session, I found that it was best to park the car in gear and with the E-brake (parking brake) OFF.
Mine parking brake bound up once after a hot soak, and I saw other folks at the track parking with the e-brake OFF.
Well, I don't honestly know. I am not myself in Sweden right now, so I send my dad around doing all preparations for the car. I will travel from Japan to Sweden on the 25th and that will actually be the first time I see the car IRL.
Had I done all the mods myself I would have tried to get a proper measurement of the weight saving, but now I'll just have to have confidence that there is a difference.
But the real speed limiting factor was from the Toyo Proxes 4+ (high performance all season?) tires, which were complaining on every corner, and heavy braking zone, leading to understeer on turn in, and oversteer on power out.
Yeah I will be driving Club class of Time Attack, so I am forced to stick to "street tyres" that don't have a clear track focus (so no Cup 2s, R888Rs, Nankang AR-1 or similar). And unfortunately there aren't that many fast street tyres in 18" 245/275 width. I would like to run PS4S or Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R, but they aren't available in the right sizes... so now I went with PS4. Will be interesting to see if I encounter the same problems as you do.
hmm.. If you are a tall driver, (>190 cm, >6ft3in) then you may want to remove the headliner (which is a real b!#$% to get out) to gain some more helmet room. I had some restriction on my helmet motion to the left due to lack of head room (I am 6ft 3in).
Yeah I am 185 cm, and encountered similar problems with my previous F-Type R that had the panoramic roof. I'm hoping I'm getting some more room to move with the carbon fibre roof, but we'll see...
Originally Posted by HermanWiegman
I did notice that you still have the rear cargo cover installed... removing it will lead to an easy few kilos of weight removal.
Ditto on the engine cover... which also traps heat (bad).
Yes will be one of the first things I do when I get to the car!
Originally Posted by HermanWiegman
I found that my standard brakes (silver) were adequate for 20 minutes sessions, but I do recommend turning off Traction Control to avoid excessive brake action.
The DTC setting seemed to limit the intensity of my pucker factor moments, so I will need to experiment with turning it totally off next event.
I will run with traction control off. I have the same brakes as you, but have purchased Porterfield R4 brake pads so hopefully have some more brake stamina than with the stock pads.
Originally Posted by HermanWiegman
One more tip, after completing a track session, I found that it was best to park the car in gear and with the E-brake (parking brake) OFF.
Mine parking brake bound up once after a hot soak, and I saw other folks at the track parking with the e-brake OFF.
Yes agree, I never use the e-brake when my brakes are warm, especially not after a track stint. Not sure whether it is accurate or not, but I've heard that you risk deforming your rotors if activating the e-brake when the brakes are hot.
Just some updates on my tracking attempts with the Jag. I installed most of the upgrades I intended;
- Carbon roof
- KW V3 coilovers
- LSD from V6S
- Velocity AP tune (not the pulley though)
- Porterfield R4 pads
- Protrack wheels
- Motul RBF700 brake fluid
Left the aero bits for later, and went to the race track. Second stint it started raining and - swosh - lost the rear end, and ended in the barriers.
3 months later it is now finally repaired, and I went for the last track day of the season. Super fun, no crashes and I confirmed it can be fairly fast around a track if it is properly driven. Looking forward to next season!
Before the rain, was super fun to drive actually! Then it started raining... After second stint in the rain at Mantorp Racetrack. Back from the workshop, after 3 months of repairs...
05-04-2021 | 07:38 PM
