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I had another thread (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...my19-r-238480/ ) where a noise ended up being an issue with the supercharger, this is fixed. However, a check engine came on while waiting for the part/appointment and when I checked the oil it was underfilled. I put two quarts in and the sensor didn't budge(never started engine, just checked) so had them flatbed it.
The dealer found the oil filter was loose and apparently topped off the oil after measuring it. The check engine light wasn't on for them and they saw no codes.
I pick up the car today, before even starting it check the oil and it says " overfilled." They said this is common and will be fine when I drive it but I asked about it expanding when hot, etc, etc and they agreed to remove some.
The mechanic calls me back and shows them measuring it while hooked up to the OBD showing 6.3L after a few minutes of sitting, the car's sensor shows OK. So I take the car. I drive it a little bit, engine warm, and wait the ten minutes to check the oil it says overfilled again.
I take it back, they offer to take some off or do an oil change for $$$. They check again with the OBD and it shows similar numbers, and it says OK on the sensor while it's hooked up to the OBD. So I'm at a little loss as to what to do?
I just got home, checked again after waiting and it says overfilled again.
Is this an issue? How can I check the oil if the sensor isn't appropriate? Can the sensor be calibrated? Can the sensor be replaced?
Would you guys just pay for an oil change? Curious thoughts.
It's best to check the engine oil level after the vehicle is parked on a level surface and has cold soaked overnight to get the most accurate reading from the instrument cluster.
If the OBD scanner is showing the correct oil level, the sensor must be suspect and replaced under warranty along with an oil change. Depending on your location, an oil and filter change on an X152 can be 180$US and up.
It's best to check the engine oil level after the vehicle is parked on a level surface and has cold soaked overnight to get the most accurate reading from the instrument cluster...
On the other hand: the oil is drained, filled and checked with the engine warm. After 8000 miles (!), checking it cold showed it one tick above halfway. Checking it warm, 10 minutes after a drive, showed it perfectly full. So I plan to check it under the same conditions I filled it - warm/hot.
On the other hand: the oil is drained, filled and checked with the engine warm. After 8000 miles (!), checking it cold showed it one tick above halfway. Checking it warm, 10 minutes after a drive, showed it perfectly full. So I plan to check it under the same conditions I filled it - warm/hot.
When cold oil is added to a warm engine is normally registers low. It should be checked when the engine and oil are the same temperature. When the dealership Technician is adding oil they must add it to the middle level of the instrument cluster gauge to avoid over filling.
I saw them use the OBD, few minutes after hooking up it was around 6.3L for oil measurement. What’s interesting is the car’s oil indicator said it was OK when the OBD was hooked up. This morning I checked it still says “overfilled”.
I’m assuming this is more of a sensor issue vs. an actual oil level issue?
Would you just push for a oil sensor replacement or drive some and see where things settle down over the next week or two?
I’ve probably got a few weeks of driving left before the temperatures make it time to hibernate. So could always wait until the spring?
One would think that a super intelligent engineer could devise a method whereby a definitive reading could be obtained in a mechanical method, like with a flexible metal strip that could be inserted into the crankcase or something.
Just brainstorming here, that's all.
I’ve got a design worked out similar to the flex dipstick pictured below, but I need to buy a minimum of 100’ if the spring shaft. If I knew for a fact that it would work, I’d go for it, and have a bunch left over for others. That kind of investment for a single prototype is a stretch.
The Diameter of the shaft needs to be just a bit smaller than this to fit down the suction tube.
When cold oil is added to a warm engine is normally registers low. It should be checked when the engine and oil are the same temperature. When the dealership Technician is adding oil they must add it to the middle level of the instrument cluster gauge to avoid over filling.
I never once thought that hot oil expands at any significant amount to register any appreciable amount on a dip stick. Im going to have do a test and see. Or is this car somehow special in the way the level is measured where heat has that kind of dramatic effect?
I was always taught to never check your oil level right after stopping the car or adding oil to the crank case because a lot of the oil you add sticks to all the metal it touches on the way down to the oil pan so it will look artificially low until it is allowed to sit for an extended period and I’ll drip into the pan. But I don’t ever recall being worried about oil expansion. Doesnt mean it doesnt. Just im surprised if it does and somehow I didnt know
I’ve got a design worked out similar to the flex dipstick pictured below, but I need to buy a minimum of 100’ if the spring shaft. If I knew for a fact that it would work, I’d go for it, and have a bunch left over for others. That kind of investment for a single prototype is a stretch.
The Diameter of the shaft needs to be just a bit smaller than this to fit down the suction tube.
Let us know if you go ahead with this - I would be first in line to buy one. The ability to do a manual check of the oil level would be a godsend. I have never been able to understand the rationale for eliminating an oil dipstick.
I was always taught to never check your oil level right after stopping the car or adding oil to the crank case because a lot of the oil you add sticks to all the metal it touches on the way down to the oil pan so it will look artificially low until it is allowed to sit for an extended period and I’ll drip into the pan.
It's not so much about the oil you're adding but the oil that's already in there. Oil is pumped throughout the engine while running and it takes a while for all of that hot oil to drip back down into the pan so it will read low until the oil is recovered in the pan.
It's not so much about the oil you're adding but the oil that's already in there. Oil is pumped throughout the engine while running and it takes a while for all of that hot oil to drip back down into the pan so it will read low until the oil is recovered in the pan.
I’ve got a design worked out similar to the flex dipstick pictured below, but I need to buy a minimum of 100’ if the spring shaft. If I knew for a fact that it would work, I’d go for it, and have a bunch left over for others. That kind of investment for a single prototype is a stretch.
The Diameter of the shaft needs to be just a bit smaller than this to fit down the suction tube.
Good luck with that Lance, I think you're gonna need it!
Coz the oil extraction tube is way too convoluted to get such a shaft anywhere near the bottom, see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post2201951
That said it would be great if you could perform a modern miracle and cobble up a working dipstick for these engines.
I've had the same issue for over a year. The Service Director and Shop Foreman have been very helpful and I've accepted the Jag F Type way to measure oil sucks. The OBD reading is solid and they've already replaced the sensor and the problem persists. Gauge cluster shows overfilled, but OBD reading says 90% full.
Good luck with that Lance, I think you're gonna need it!
Coz the oil extraction tube is way too convoluted to get such a shaft anywhere near the bottom, see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post2201951
That said it would be great if you could perform a modern miracle and cobble up a working dipstick for these engines.
Those two 90 degree bends will certainly be a challenge.
And this is why a cold engine (after overnight) check will tell you how much oil is really in the system.
But - that's apparently not how the system is calibrated. Perhaps the difference is small, but they specifically state in my F Type user manual to check the oil when the engine is "at operating temperature (oil is hot)". After you wait 10 minutes to ensure the oil has drained back to the sump
If you do the calcs, temperature does make a difference. About 150F increase in temp is about 5-6% increase in volume (about 1/3 of a quart of mis-read)
So - I guess if you fill to very maximum you don't want to measure cold...