Hey perhaps we can do a group buy on the carbon driveshaft? I am interested

 

Hi all - new here! Lease just ended on my 335i. I decided to lease an F-type base coupe and wanted to do some light mods. With the 340hp motor what kinds of gains are expected with just a tune and with a tune/crank pulley?
Has anyone who leases done the pulley and if so, what is your plan to turn the car in at lease end?

Thanks!

 

Tune alone will get you a bit over 400hp and a tune and lower crank pulley will get you just under 450hp. I don't plan on getting rid of the car and its not on lease, but if I/it were, I would revert to stock and sell the pulley kit to someone else before turning in the car.

 

Yep; F types are not subarus! My son has a modified WRX STI which is a quick little car but totally different with an aftermarket that is at least 10X larger.

F type;
- tune - by far the best bang for the buck; Velocity for me
- lower pulley - a bit more hp
- upper pulley - less than the lower but more of a PITA.....I wouldn't bother myself
- sport cats - bit of a bump, more noise
- intake/filters - some claims out there for a decent boost but I remain skeptical and I'm not willing to compromise the filtration efficiency for a bit more flow. The supercharger takes care of the restriction just like it does on the exhaust side for the most part.
- headers - not worth it as mentioned by a previous poster
- exhaust - with the baffles open the stock is pretty open.....I'd love to pick up a titanium P7/SVR setup but I doubt it makes much difference in power.

Lowering springs for handling, lighter wheels for reduced unsprung weight, better tires for more grip.

That's about it. As I have the V8, I've opted for the tune only (so far)......I figure 600+ hp is enough, especially as my car is RWD.

2 cents,

Dave

 

i came from an e93 335 which I quite enjoyed and was taken from me in an 8 car pile up all caused by one car that didn't stop in stop and go traffic. Stock for stock it seemed torquier, but hoping a tune will wake up my base ftype. The ftype is more special all around, but a bit lacking in hp for my taste.

 

i shokd add that, in my opinion, you are just spending money for the sake of spending money on this car beyond tune and pulleys. The cost far outweighs the benefits and, in my opinion, aftermarket exhausts ruin these cars for the most part.

 

I can confirm this; about two months driving with the VAP tune+crank pulley.

I don't lease mine, but agree, revert back sell it, or get a another F type.

 

Did you do the tune and crank pulley at the same time? If not, was there a noticeable difference from tune only to tune AND pulley?

 

i did the tune first and then a few months later added the lower pulley. The pulley added an even bigger perceived bump than the tune did, I believe this is because it lowered the engine speed range where peak torque occurs.

 

I did the tune a week or two before the pulley, mostly because I was impatient. I have the base V6 so it was big impact. After I got the pulley, I could feel the increase as well. Perhaps not as dramatic, but it was good.

It was worth it!

 

I can see that.The effect if a tune on the base model would be twice that on a V6S.

 

Hi Unhingd,

Mine is the 340 so when I get to having the VAP tuning I know the change will be noticeable. Can you advise how much lower into the Rev range it brings the torque curve please. UK roads being both poorly surfaced and mainly wet! means too low torque could actually be a negative impact, or simply keep the traction control very busy ....

Thanx, Paul

 

With the tune alone: The peak torque rpm (4200) will not change significantly, but with the performance tune it comes on strong at 2800 rpm as compared with 3800 for the OEM tune. The DSC nannies will keep you safe.

 

There are different types of tunes you can purchase? A regular tune vs. a performance tune?

 

Regular tune = stock.
Performance tune = aftermarket.

 

To clarify: A performance tune without a change in pulley will not change the rpm at which the torque peaks (4200), but the torque will rally much sooner (2800 vs 3800).

 

Having done perhaps the most software and development for these cars, I think we have figured out what works, what doesn't, what is good return on $/HP and what isn't.

For the V6, especially the base, a tune will get you great HP and torque. 415-ish is typical. The Base V6 also has the torque demanded tapered in at lower RPM compared to the 'S' so you'll pick up a lot of extra bottom end.

The upper pulley is a complete waste of time. The stock upper pulley on a V6 is 62mm, which is the smallest size that can be fitted without shaving the supercharger snout. The upper pulley at 60.5mm can be fitted with a shaved snout but adds 0.75psi and probably 5 or 6BHP. For the cost, and several hours of install work it's just not worth the time. V8 is a different story, it starts with a 65mm upper pulley.

That leaves the lower pulley (Crank.) This one is a quick bolt on install, and gets you up to about 445BHP, shifts the torque band lower in the RPM range. We offer these in both Aluminum and Stainless Steel. The Steel is actually heavier than stock, but offers some additional damping, which is significant because the OEM crank pulley is a rubber damped setup so some extra mass helps with that. That mass is so close to the axis of rotation that I dont think you'd ever notice the difference.

We do offer a bolt-on cat delete, as well as a 200 cell cat. I certainly would suggest the sport cat on the V6:

We also offer a tapered coil progressive rate lowering spring.

If you're interested in a few of these things, drop me a line at Stuart@VelocityAP.com and we will set you up with a package.

 

Did you break that poor man's arm with all that extra speed?! For shame Stuart, for shame...

 

Yeah I know... I'm a bad man.

BTW - we also have both the Steel and Aluminum pulleys available and in stock now.

 

I love the summary by Stuart on the best bang for $ on the mods. With a V6S, looks like the tune and lower pulley are the two mods to do to get the most out of the performance. I saw the detailed DIY that was rated a 5 out of 10 for difficulty. Without a lift for me, that puts it to about a 9 out of 10 for difficulty.

I would like to ask a couple novice questions:
1. Has anyone had this done the lower pulley at a shop vs a DIY? If so, what is expected cost? Is there a recommended place in the Philly, PA area?
2. Can you do this pulley without a tune or is that bassackwards?
3. If yes to #2, does JLR care about a new pulley from a CPO perspective? I assume they would notice??