Should not be a problem for VAP seeing as ALL the brake rotors on the F-Type (except for the CCM) are exactly the same across a wide range of Jags. Just not for the latest XF, XE, F-Pace, E-Pace, I-Pace etc. I'm talking 380 mm and 355 mm fronts and 376 and 326 mm rears, all identical across several Jags.

 

Good to know! We are scanning XE rotors next, since we have an XE!

 

lolwut

Sorry but I do not buy your take on it, not a chance. Unless you somehow figured out a huge aftermarket brake servo to go with it, there's zero, I mean absolutely zero, chance the OEM brake servo can flow enough brake fluid, for what you'd expect for a pedal response from a big brake kit. I looked at PB Brakes a while back, other than crap shoot quality, their big pots (the only options that work on F-Types with performance brakes) require too much brake fluid volume for the OEM servo to handle. It may be fine for street duty, but even then you're probably ignoring the often-mentioned spongy pedal feel many who opted for this upgrade eventually realize, once their honeymoon period is over with. Don't even bother with any certifications - these are Made in China, there's no such thing. I would definitely not take it for track duty, or even back canyon duty. These brakes are writing checks they can't cash. They look great, and if that's your schtick, then more power to you. However, don't pretend they turn your car into a hardcore track monster. A good track-ready brake pads alone would give the OEM performance brakes solid track-ready performance.

For reference, Brembo, THE Brembo, has a 3 pot front BBK, and that's as far as they would go in order to maintain brake pedal feel. If you think you know more than Brembo...ok bruh. You do you.

 

Are you serious
you say brembo does a 3 pot kit 😂 what's that 1.5 pots each side
Not sure how someone who doesn't have this kit can comment in the effectiveness of this kit
Pedal feel is nothing short of awesome it is not grabby and if anyone has this kit and says they have spongy brakes I would suggest they go for a higher boiling point fluid and some race pads and maybe bleed the brakes correctly
as far as I am aware the carbon ceramics are a very similar size caliper
Brakes are not one spec fit all
That is why you can spec the brakes for how you intend to use the car and is applicable to just about every bbk made
I have opted for a street pad and it is a exceptional stopping power set up with zero sponginess
If you intend to be mor spirited then the option for a different pad set up is there
I have never heard any negative feedback for this set up and there are several of us in UK running this set up

The vap rotors are a very good set up and if they came with calipers would be a serious contender

 

If you are a track junkie then race pads and race fluid is required
brake fade is the fluid becoming too hot to function
I suspect someone is ragging the **** off their car and expecting carbon ceramic performance from a regular set up

As for the made in china jibe
Actually it's Taiwan and the quality of many items made in Taiwan is of a very high standard
P b brakes are made and sold worldwide and if they were not up to the job I am sure the company wouldn't survive

 

I meant 6 pot, but you get the point. My bad habit of always just looking at the surface and count. Jag's OEM fluid is perfectly fine for track.

Like I said, you do you. I know people that said their shocks are "fine" at 200k miles when they're clearly leaking and shot to hell. I'm just saying it's all show; what you "feel" makes no sense. Yes, I haven't owned a set, that's because I talked to PB, did my homework, and discovered that no, these are more form than function. And if you just do a little bit of searching, you'll find some disgruntled people who actually bought PB and aren't happy with it. That's not to say everyone is, clearly you're satisfied with it. If you think they actually perform better than OEM performance though, they're just not, at least not without an upgrade to the brake servo.

It's funny you said the brakes are not "one size fits all" when PB basically mix and matches the same parts bin for different cars using different brackets. That also proves my point - you can't just mix a different size pot and expect the brake pump to simply compensate. Also, you can't compare carbon ceramic to our plain jane calipers. It's not even on the same playing field. If you can't understand something so simple, then I got nothing for you.

By the way, ask PB directly, ask them about customers reporting back about spongy brake feel. They'll reiterate what I said about spongy brakes. At least they were open about it.

And although Taiwan probably has better reputation in terms of quality, the fact remains - it's not certified for anything.

Finally, I'm not talking about brake fade; not once have I mentioned about that. Do you even know what a brake servo does, or how fluid/volume dynamics work? You haven't mentioned it even once, and instead opted to defend your preference, as if to take offense. Frankly, I don't care what your preference is. What I'm saying is your subjective opinion on its performance is false. Again, it's a simple matter of what the OEM brake servo can/can't handle. If you can't even feel the fact that your brake engagement now takes more travel to happen, then you know what...you just do you. I'm not going to waste my time explaining this to someone that clearly doesn't care or understand it.

 

Personally I haven't found a bad review and ones that are are imo people with wrongly specced set up trying to achieve carbon ceramic performance at beer money price
I can definitely 100 % say my p b brakes road set up is in a different universe to the oe performance brakes which are again imo rubbish
I have zero fade and instant bite with minimum pedal pressure
For road use they are exceptional
For track there are only 2 options
1/carbon ceramics
2/race fluid and race pads on floating discs and a large caliper
Even so I have seen R34 gtr leaving a track smoking and visible orange from the brakes while on the track

Carbon ceramics are a hideous price even 2nd hand but for the road this kit is awesome

You will always get a few moaners about any product
I did search before purchasing and found nothing negative

 

The thread is deviating
this is abou the vap rotors which are very good
They just need a caliper to go with them

 

For my street needs, the 380/326 do just fine, oem....lots and lots of feel and stopping power. Better pads, rotors, and CASTRO SRF and I am good to go.

TRW calipers are good calipers and they seem quite good so far...2 pot up front, 1 in back and they work. I had brembo's before an they were fine until they needed a rebuild. These TRW's seem pretty darn robust.

 

Actually, for the track there are other factors at play in braking, namely:
Weight of vehicle (3800+ pound pig)
Tire size width (recommend upping to 265 front and 305 rear)
Tire compound (i.e. slicks)
and the most important HEAT DISSIPATION. (Thus the need for at the bare minimum racing brake fluid, and preferably race pads...CCs if money is no object.)

You can have the biggest set of calipers with 24 pistons, but if your brakes don't dissipate the heat on the track, then you will get fade...just simple physics.

In my year of actively tracking an F Type, I'd say the biggest disadvantages to the Jag are weight and heat dissipation, not the OEM calipers. Just remember, street braking and track braking are two ENTIRELY different motions. Street braking tends to be more progressive force, while tracking braking is more hard instant brake force, then releasing. Also, just running a set of slicks on the car is night and day. I would highly advise having a spare set of rims with slicks for track use. The Jag is just too heavy for even 4Ss, or even cup 2s, as I nearly melted a brand new set of 4Ss and started bluing the sidewall of one of the fronts after a track day.

I have run with street pads and track pads...again, by far, the track pads are superior on the track due to heat dissipation. I have ordered VAPs two piece rotors and am awaiting my allocation to further testing. I was pleased with their increased vanes on the fronts to help with active heat dissipation. Also, the ability to just replace the outer section as they wear versus buying an entire rotator is a game changer for these cars. I looked at the PB sets, but, after research, just seemed unnecessary to replace the OEM calipers (at least the R super performance versions I have) with anything else, since HEAT DISSIPATION is my enemy not stopping power.

Unfortunately, I think the only eventual long-term solution is going to be some sort of air duct system directly onto the brakes.

There are tons of videos out there showing that bigger calipers do not equate to better braking at 1:1. Honestly, for the street, the OEM brakes are just fine for the vast majority of driving situations.

Just my 2 cents from my experience.

 

Personally, as someone that did a lot of dabbling with my old 200SX, the thing I find incredibly frustrating with the Jag's OEM calipers is how much of a faff it appears to be to do a simple pad swap. Changing the pads on my old Nissan, both on stock brakes and the upgraded calipers I put on, was a 10-minute job once the car was up in the air with the wheel off (probably 5 minutes of that time was winding the pistons back in), and there was no risk of scratching something in the process. Having read what's involved on the F-Type, and given that I have a sloping gravel driveway, I know there is zero chance I'm going to attempt a DIY pad change.

If VAP were to release a set of on-par calipers (as in, at least as good as OEM in terms of stopping power and reliability), with a MUCH easier pad change process, I'd be one of the first people in the queue to buy them, as well as these new rotors.

 

I agree with the prior post of pads and fluid and cooling...the stock calipers are fine. But the post here about "ease of changing" raises a really good point. On my prior cars, Brembo calipers meant simple pad changes. My current pedal bike has hydraulic calipers with brembo style easy of use too...so the idea is clearly doable on the cheap. The key is to have things work with the stock rest of the brake system so the car and calibrations work as intended exactly. Frankly, given the smallish numbers of these cars (all LR and Jaguars even) that it would be best to have calipers that swap in for the stock ones with exactly the same fluid needs/demands, pad compatibility BUT with easy pad changes. I too would buy a set. But to be honest, the market globally might be 500 total cars. Me, I would rather VAP make a deeper airduct.

What do I mean by airduct....the 996 generation of cars had different air ducts for gt3's and gt2's.... People put the biggest ones on their cars when tracking and it made a huge difference. Others hacked together piping and such, but those tubes seemed ot sometimes fail/fall off....the ducts would get ripped off on curbs and if you went into the grass, but they were plastic bolt on units designed to tear away to save the car's more pricey parts....


Here is an image of what I'd love VAP to do....top is a stock one, bottom one is a 996 cup car...there are any number of things one can do to manage this....one can perhaps have adjustability via bolt holes and parts, etc., etc. Molded plastic is cheap.

If you look under your F type you'll see we already have some...and they are pretty good stock. But this is a very cheap place to look for more air....ducts get pricey and complex.



On the car:








Ducts...(not my car, but a nicely done example that looks oem.....):








JB

 

I'm interested to see how much difference you feel from the rotor swap. Heat dissipation is 100% a huge factor. Not only with the cooling vanes but also by going to a 2-piece design there's usually much better cooling.

 

Here’s an old track day document which references ducts for the CCBs, but I think those were discontinued years ago.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bwcg2spgeb...10851.pdf?dl=0

 

I pair my OEM calipers with the EBC yellow. My biggest problem with the OEM brakes is actually brake fade, but that happened late in the day after an all-day track session and multiple hard brakes from a 170mph OVAL straight (hint: it's scary). It's a fair expectation, for what that's worth. I don't know if the VAP 2-piece will get me through the entire day, but shaving 40lbs unsprung mass, means a lot for acceleration. So there's that to look forward to at least, and it's mainly why I want 2-piece rotors, in addition to heat dissipation benefits.

Now if only VAP has a sale for those going on...*wink wink nudge nudge*

 

I would also be very interested to know what the lower weight actually brings in measured time. 1-2 tenths to the 1/4 mile perhaps?

 

It's not 40lbs, it's 53lbs!!!

I don't think a sale is likely right now, but if you want some I would jump on them before we see any supplier price increases. Everything is getting more expensive these days!

 

Stuart! Any timeline for XE rotors? I think my 3.0l RSport is 350mm and 325mm... Any weight and cost estimates?

 

We have started working on them, got the scans done but no - I don't have any further info at this time.

 

Hi Stuart, what are/ will be the prices for replacement rings?