When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have considered swapping some of the other pulleys around as suggest by VAP themselves . Was in another thread when someone found their belt was too tight. They only had single pulley I think but should work too. I think it’s the ones marked with yellow in the photo below but not 100% sure so confirm with someone else first
Have considered swapping some of the other pulleys around as suggest by VAP themselves . Was in another thread when someone found their belt was too tight. They only had single pulley I think but should work too. I think it’s the ones marked with yellow in the photo below but not 100% sure so confirm with someone else first
But you know, that the belt on the compressor wheel has even less contact due to the exchange, Slipping through even more risk!
There has been a lot of threads recently on this. Probably due to the increase of purchases made during Black Friday. Because each car has different tolerances and setup (i.e. Silver Crank pulley versus black), different pulleys, etc. I think some are having no issues and others are having quite a bit. By design, the lower pulley (only, stage 2) keeping factory pulley was meant to run their 1470 belt while their stage 3, with upper and lower pulley's was designed to run their 1461 belt. It is a tight fit! I had the lower pulley only, 1470 belt and thought for sure the same thing others were saying. That it would not fit. But once I ran the belt through and the last pulley was the supercharger pulley itself, I was able to get it on. The tensioner was maxed initially, however once done, it receeded back some. So YMMV and trial and error, but it will go on. I have a black crank pulley for reference. Chris said if I went to upper pulley I could keep the 1470 belt, but it might slip, so he recommended the 1461.
Hello, but the show must go on. For reference, I have a black crank pulley. Chris indicated I could maintain the 1470 belt if I moved to the top pulley, but it would slip, so he suggested the 1461.
Hello together,
also have the black crank pulley and stage 2 (just swapped Crank pulley). My spring tensioner is at about 85-90% extended, so pretty much at the end, but from my point of view the belt on the tensioner doesn't touch (but it's very tight).
I'm also switching to Stage 3. I calculated that the smaller upper pulley (62mm instead of OEM 66mm) saves about 12mm in the whole circumference (circumference of new pulley calculated). However, since the belt is only 50% on the pulley, there should be around max. 6 mm less travel for the belt.
What I don't understand now! Why should the belt slip now because of 6mm less tension in the system? The tensioner is still very much at the limit. In addition, the new upper pulley has an even better grip due to the new coating (ribbed). If it were to slip because of these 6 mm, the entire pulley system is designed in such a way that the spring tension is simply not sufficient, even at 80%. And so the belt would have to be tightened very tightly and rigidly without spring tension.
However, I think it's rather daring, if I'm honest. Such a spring tension certainly has its justification in the OEM system. I'm trying to install Stage3 with the 1470 Belt and hope not to have any slipping. in my view, this System with 80% spring tension, the belt is still very taut and rigid. Should actually fit with the new upper pulley. The spring is also very strong. You need a lot of strength to stretch the spring at all. And until the end, the spring keeps getting harder. But whether the spring is 80 or 85% stretched out doesn't matter that much on the pressure. My opinion in this case...
Hello together,
also have the black crank pulley and stage 2 (just swapped Crank pulley). My spring tensioner is at about 85-90% extended, so pretty much at the end, but from my point of view the belt on the tensioner doesn't touch (but it's very tight).
I'm also switching to Stage 3. I calculated that the smaller upper pulley (62mm instead of OEM 66mm) saves about 12mm in the whole circumference (circumference of new pulley calculated). However, since the belt is only 50% on the pulley, there should be around max. 6 mm less travel for the belt.
What I don't understand now! Why should the belt slip now because of 6mm less tension in the system? The tensioner is still very much at the limit. In addition, the new upper pulley has an even better grip due to the new coating (ribbed). If it were to slip because of these 6 mm, the entire pulley system is designed in such a way that the spring tension is simply not sufficient, even at 80%. And so the belt would have to be tightened very tightly and rigidly without spring tension.
However, I think it's rather daring, if I'm honest. Such a spring tension certainly has its justification in the OEM system. I'm trying to install Stage3 with the 1470 Belt and hope not to have any slipping. in my view, this System with 80% spring tension, the belt is still very taut and rigid. Should actually fit with the new upper pulley. The spring is also very strong. You need a lot of strength to stretch the spring at all. And until the end, the spring keeps getting harder. But whether the spring is 80 or 85% stretched out doesn't matter that much on the pressure. My opinion in this case...
Sorry, it's more than 6mm less for the belt. The way to the edge of upper pulley is also deeper, 2mm exactly, and we have this way 2x for the belt. We have min. 10mm less way for the belt I think :-)
Hello together,
also have the black crank pulley and stage 2 (just swapped Crank pulley). My spring tensioner is at about 85-90% extended, so pretty much at the end, but from my point of view the belt on the tensioner doesn't touch (but it's very tight).
I'm also switching to Stage 3. I calculated that the smaller upper pulley (62mm instead of OEM 66mm) saves about 12mm in the whole circumference (circumference of new pulley calculated). However, since the belt is only 50% on the pulley, there should be around max. 6 mm less travel for the belt.
What I don't understand now! Why should the belt slip now because of 6mm less tension in the system? The tensioner is still very much at the limit. In addition, the new upper pulley has an even better grip due to the new coating (ribbed). If it were to slip because of these 6 mm, the entire pulley system is designed in such a way that the spring tension is simply not sufficient, even at 80%. And so the belt would have to be tightened very tightly and rigidly without spring tension.
However, I think it's rather daring, if I'm honest. Such a spring tension certainly has its justification in the OEM system. I'm trying to install Stage3 with the 1470 Belt and hope not to have any slipping. in my view, this System with 80% spring tension, the belt is still very taut and rigid. Should actually fit with the new upper pulley. The spring is also very strong. You need a lot of strength to stretch the spring at all. And until the end, the spring keeps getting harder. But whether the spring is 80 or 85% stretched out doesn't matter that much on the pressure. My opinion in this case...
Question:Why should the belt slip now because of 6mm less tension in the system? The tensioner is still very much at the limit. In addition, the new upper pulley has an even better grip due to the new coating (ribbed). If it were to slip because of these 6 mm, the entire pulley system is designed in such a way that the spring tension is simply not sufficient, even at 80%. And so the belt would have to be tightened very tightly and rigidly without spring tension.
Answer: It is not just about tension, but the surface area of the belt that is in contact with the pulley. Less contact = less grip = more chance to slip.
I will just test with the 1470 belt, and I will seen, what wrong with the tensioner. When it goes to much on the left side, and I have Max 50% than I will change my belt. We will see what's going on after the switch of the new upper Pulley... I will send you asap the result for helping users perhaps... I will also log a data file with the VAP tool and send this to VAP for checking.
Hi Guys,
Id like to know, is the engine of the Project 8 sedan any different than the F Type R motor. Are the two motors pulleys the same, or is there a difference with the engine pulleys for the Project 8 car. Is the increase in horsepower of the Project 8 car just a software tune upgrade ?
Thank you.
Hi Guys,
Id like to know, is the engine of the Project 8 sedan any different than the F Type R motor. Are the two motors pulleys the same, or is there a difference with the engine pulleys for the Project 8 car. Is the increase in horsepower of the Project 8 car just a software tune upgrade ?
Thank you.
This question has been asked a few times before and no-one has ever come up with a definitive answer.
Some suspect that the Project 8 has a larger crank pulley and/or a smaller SC pulley but no-one has ever proven this.
So far all the evidence is pointing at the increase in horsepower being mainly if not solely due to the tune.
Also the Project 8 has pod air intake filters which may (or may not!) help to increase max power, see the official JLR "technical press kit" here: https://media.jaguar.com/en-us/news/...e-sv-project-8
Quote:
ENGINE
At the heart of the Project 8 is the latest evolution of the well proven Jaguar 5.0-liter Supercharged V8 engine modified to give a targeted power output of 592HP and 516-lb. ft. of torque – the highest output of any Jaguar road car.
To achieve the outputs required for a 200mph(1) performance sedan, SVO engineers have tuned the engine calibration software and enabled better breathing on both air intake and exhaust sides of the engine.
The air intake system is unique to the Project 8 and is optimized to increase airflow efficiency and reduce air circulation and pressure drop within the airbox. It’s fed by ducts in the front Carbon Fiber Bumper molding.
The Project 8 uses a unique lightweight Titanium Variable Active Exhaust designed to provide consistent performance during extended periods of track use. The system exits through the rear diffuser, finishing with quad 3.5-in/89mm tailpipes for a phenomenal snarling soundtrack.
The cooling system of the V8 is extensively modified, ensuring stamina and endurance under extreme track conditions and in hot climates. The vent in the Carbon Fiber Hood plays an active part in managing under-hood temperatures as well. Located in a low-pressure area, the vent has a dual benefit of reducing drag and helping manage the airflow through the engine compartment by sucking hot air out."
The key sentence appears to be this one: "To achieve the outputs required for a 200mph(1) performance sedan, SVO engineers have tuned the engine calibration software and enabled better breathing on both air intake and exhaust sides of the engine."
No mention of any pulley(s) and all it talks about is tuning and breathing so my money is on stock pulleys.
Thank you for your reply. I ask my question because I have contemplated doing the pulley upgrade on my 2017 F-Type R for some time now. But the more I read the pulley threads and the various posts, the more reluctant I am because of belt slippage and also because of the difficulty of the belt fitment onto the pulleys. I myself am not technically /mechanically savvy, so I would have to go to a competent automotive shop to have this done and based on the various frustrated posts I've read in the past pertaining to belt fitment and a difficulty getting the belt onto the pulley, I'm quite sure that paying the qualified mechanic to do this job would be quite expensive.
Thank you for your reply. I ask my question because I have contemplated doing the pulley upgrade on my 2017 F-Type R for some time now. But the more I read the pulley threads and the various posts, the more reluctant I am because of belt slippage and also because of the difficulty of the belt fitment onto the pulleys. I myself am not technically /mechanically savvy, so I would have to go to a competent automotive shop to have this done and based on the various frustrated posts I've read in the past pertaining to belt fitment and a difficulty getting the belt onto the pulley, I'm quite sure that paying the qualified mechanic to do this job would be quite expensive.
If you are worried about pulley and/or belt problems then go for a tune only, VAP claim their tune by itself takes the V8 to 605 hp so more than the P8 anyway: https://www.velocityap.com/product/j...ace-svr-xj-xf/
An added bonus is you don't need to take it to a shop to apply the tune it is a piece of cake to DIY in the comfort of your own garage.
Thank you for your reply. I ask my question because I have contemplated doing the pulley upgrade on my 2017 F-Type R for some time now. But the more I read the pulley threads and the various posts, the more reluctant I am because of belt slippage and also because of the difficulty of the belt fitment onto the pulleys. I myself am not technically /mechanically savvy, so I would have to go to a competent automotive shop to have this done and based on the various frustrated posts I've read in the past pertaining to belt fitment and a difficulty getting the belt onto the pulley, I'm quite sure that paying the qualified mechanic to do this job would be quite expensive.
I would not be too concerned on the lower pulley. You have a few on here who posted issues, but many more who have had no issues. The lower pulley is the best bang...the upper pulley doesn't add a lot, is more of a pain to install, and more likely to cause issues ( not installed properly or slippage).
If you are interested in upgrading, I would suggest VAP Stage 2 tune with lower pulley. Very noticeable upgrade.
DC
EDIT: Also...I would not expect the labor to install the pulley to be expensive. Pretty easy to do. Essentially have to (well...don't have to, but likely may) drop the lower engine covers/pans...Pop off old Pulley and Belt...Install new Pulley and belt, and replace the lower engine cover/pan. I would suspect labor to be 1-2 hours at whatever the going hourly rate is in your area.
01-29-2022, 01:58 PM
