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I would not be too concerned on the lower pulley. You have a few on here who posted issues, but many more who have had no issues. The lower pulley is the best bang...the upper pulley doesn't add a lot, is more of a pain to install, and more likely to cause issues ( not installed properly or slippage).
If you are interested in upgrading, I would suggest VAP Stage 2 tune with lower pulley. Very noticeable upgrade.
DC
EDIT: Also...I would not expect the labor to install the pulley to be expensive. Pretty easy to do. Essentially have to (well...don't have to, but likely may) drop the lower engine covers/pans...Pop off old Pulley and Belt...Install new Pulley and belt, and replace the lower engine cover/pan. I would suspect labor to be 1-2 hours at whatever the going hourly rate is in your area.
Donny, is that it, 1 to 2 hours of labor?!?!!?
I was suspecting it would be a 6 to 8 hour job, especially when they say, we have to be careful with your car, since we are not actual Jaguar technicians. Am I wrong ?
It's a 1-2 hour job, If you know everything going in to the ordeal.
5 minutes to drop the splash shield
5 minutes to remove air intake (Mina Gallery)
Using a Audi Supercharger Pulley puller it is about 5 min on upper pulley.
Lower pulley could be 20 min if Loctite is crazy hard but a good electric long reach ratchet will make it fly. Stubby torx are nice
about 15 min to swap Idler pulleys (if needed, this is a big question as some have to, we did, and some do not)
upper pulley is minutes to install and torque(hot plate or oven to preheat)
Lower pulley maybe 5-10 minute install
having the right length belt priceless
So for us we had a short belt and would never of gotten it together but we had a spare OEM belt. Wasted hours trying to figure out belt rub on the tensioner and short belt issues and we were directed to the Idle pulley swap, it fixed belt rub on tensioner. But we still had to use the OEM length belt which is Very Tight.
It's worth the hassle, I would of been very upset if we had a shop do it without the knowledge we have now as it would of been an expensive bill. None of this is documented on VAP's side and well its a guessing game.
Donnie, is that it, 1 to 2 hours of labor?!?!!?
I was suspecting it would be a 6 to 8 hour job, especially when they say, we have to be careful with your car, since we are not actual Jaguar technicians. Am I wrong ?
Yes...Should be about that amount for lower Pulley and belt. Upper Pulley is a bit more involved as you have to screw around with the temperature (heat/freeze) to fix it to the shaft.
I would use a reputable shop, and get a quote in writing...Because I am not saying a shop won't try to gouge you. But the book time is likely around the 1-2 hour timeframe. And I know I can/could/did do it in that time...Using one of my lifts and taking my time.
Question:Why should the belt slip now because of 6mm less tension in the system? The tensioner is still very much at the limit. In addition, the new upper pulley has an even better grip due to the new coating (ribbed). If it were to slip because of these 6 mm, the entire pulley system is designed in such a way that the spring tension is simply not sufficient, even at 80%. And so the belt would have to be tightened very tightly and rigidly without spring tension.
Answer: It is not just about tension, but the surface area of the belt that is in contact with the pulley. Less contact = less grip = more chance to slip.
DC
Hi DC, I spoke with my mechanic today and I have a new tansioner, the old was broken while the 1461mm Belt installing for Stage 2. The 1470mm Belt was better, but also tight. He told me, that the tensioner have the same power in his view when it go back from 85% to 70%, the spring is unbelievable strong. He told me, after 1 cm to the right side, the spring from the tensioner is not many weaker as after 3 or 4 cm spring way. This is only his feeling, perhaps you can messuer the power and it is little bit more. I ordered plus the 1461mm belt and we will see next week. But I hope the new upper Pulley is Mach more better with grip as the old one.
Since MY 2017 is the tensioner a different version, perhaps this newer version have more power? The new one is also bigger I think.
Last edited by Andi Jaguar G; 02-13-2022 at 11:42 AM.
after I have a defective tensioner (plate with tensioner and idle pulley) to test, a friend (designer) gave me an idea.
We will try to shift the alignment of the pulleys based on the original tensioner plate so that more surface area of the
belt rests on the upper Stage3 SC Pulley (new GripTec). For this we will make a new plate from aluminum. The idle pulley 1 will be replaced with a smaller one if they are available on the market. The idle pulley 2 will be moved up, but will keep the
same size. The target is to create enough surface area with about 80% tension on the tensioner so that slippage is
also avoided with this setup. So far all theory. We will see if we succeed in this. We have the machines to build such
a new base plate. I will be curious to see if we will achieve useful results. Update will follow...
Must admit, we have no idea what we are doing here. Individual tests will show if we are going the right way :-) Whether it runs at all, we will see. But I have found fun in it, so we go at it now. I don't know what percentage more area we gain as a result. Whether this will then be sufficient with 80% voltage is also not clear to us. However, I think it is worth a try.
In my case, the 1461mm Belt with the smaller pulley should then not exceed the 80% tension. I have the F-Type R AWD MY 2017 with the Silver Crank Pulley.
Due to the 80% tension, there should also be no problem with the smaller (1) pulley. I'm assuming that we'll get just past the tensioner arm. Who still has ideas about this, I am open to everything...
Hello together,
after the first tests, my Setup with Stage3 and the 1470 belt feels very good! My tensioner is round about at 75-80% and I cannot detect any slipping of the belt. have no recorded data on this, but felt no slippage.
Thank you VAP for this nice Stage 3. My Belt 1461 is too short and I will drive at the moment with the 1470 belt.
The F-Type is significantly zippier and more agile than Stage2. So much fun.
Should this remain so, I will slow down my project described above a bit...
Nice weekend
Andi
Yes...Should be about that amount for lower Pulley and belt. Upper Pulley is a bit more involved as you have to screw around with the temperature (heat/freeze) to fix it to the shaft.
I would use a reputable shop, and get a quote in writing...Because I am not saying a shop won't try to gouge you. But the book time is likely around the 1-2 hour timeframe. And I know I can/could/did do it in that time...Using one of my lifts and taking my time.
DC
It took me about 2 days all in to get mine in. But the fact I successfully accomplished the installation at all means it should be doable by just about anyone. I was not in a hurry, took my time and was working on a cold garage floor. Also, double check the belt installation to confirm the belt is correctly installed fully on each pulley. I am relatively sure missing this caused me to dry my first belt in 8 miles.
for what it’s worth, I have a 1460 mm belt I purchased from VAP. They told me I could return it, but it’s been a few months and I didn’t. If anyone needs a belt this length, let me know.
[QUOTE=rrstl3;2620313]Ich habe ungefähr 2 Tage gebraucht, um meins einzubauen. Aber die Tatsache, dass ich die Installation überhaupt erfolgreich abgeschlossen habe, bedeutet, dass sie für fast jeden machbar sein sollte. Ich hatte es nicht eilig, ließ mir Zeit und arbeitete auf einem kalten Garagenboden. Überprüfen Sie außerdem die Riemeninstallation, um sicherzustellen, dass der Riemen richtig und vollständig auf jeder Riemenscheibe installiert ist. Ich bin mir ziemlich sicher, dass das Fehlen dieses Fehlers dazu geführt hat, dass ich meinen ersten Gürtel in 8 Meilen getrocknet habe.
Für das, was es wert ist, habe ich einen 1460-mm-Gürtel, den ich bei VAP gekauft habe. Sie sagten mir, ich könnte es zurückgeben, aber es ist ein paar Monate her und ich habe es nicht getan. Wenn jemand einen Gürtel dieser Länge braucht, lass es mich wissen.[/QUOTE
Please, can you me measure the Belt for me? I would be interested in the outer circumference. Simply place a mark on the strap with tape and measure along the strap with a ruler. It gives very accurate results. My 1461mm belt has an outer circumference of 1460mm. Would be very grateful if you could do that for me.
Andi
Please, can you me measure the Belt for me? I would be interested in the outer circumference. Simply place a mark on the strap with tape and measure along the strap with a ruler. It gives very accurate results. My 1461mm belt has an outer circumference of 1460mm. Would be very grateful if you could do that for me.
Andi
Update...
The old tensioner plate is now on my table. It has given rise to a new idea. If the idle pulley (2) is moved upwards, you have much more space! This could also install a larger crank pulley (3). The upper Pulley at the V8 then as griptec version but in the original size! Thus, one has significantly more bearing surface and in addition the better grip because of the new griptec version! The crank pulley must be so large that you can compensate for the upper smaller pulley. How much that must be, you can easily calculate.
From my point of view, you can move the idle pulley (2). Also a stable recording is technically possible. All this is not witchcraft.
Whether you then have to make the idle pulley (1) smaller is questionable, but would be another option to get even more contact surface. This would probably allow tension paths of around 60% without the belt slipping measurably. All only theory, but a way I think.
I stay on the subject, I promise.