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As I mentioned in my previous threads and have done on other items, I took some photos and documented the VAP 200 Cell Cat / Downpipe Change Process I just completed and put them in my "award-winning" DIY format. I have attached the process here.
As always, these are created in the spirit of helping others. If you have a better way of doing it, knock yourself out...this is simply what worked for me. Hope this is helpful for those considering doing it.
It is NOT super easy but it is really not that difficult, and you can do it with some patience and a few special tools...And my DIY! Afterward, the car runs and sounds awesome! It is definitely worth doing! And VAP is having a Black Friday Sale...So, if you were considering this, it is a great time to buy them, and I have the how-to for you right here.
Hey DC, how much louder did this make the exhaust, just a guesstimate is all I am looking for?
Great job as usual 👍
Thanks! I would say it is significantly louder (guess 30%+). The great thing though is, if you take it off of Sport mode, it ounds pretty normal... But with Sport mode on...It is beastly.
Hers is supersportmtl's video of the same one. Very good example.
I thought I would add this bit of information to the post as well. In case you damage or lose any of the flange nuts that connect the downpipe to the header (I damaged/stripped the first one!), I have pictured below the replacement nuts that you can find at local auto parts stores (these are NOT JLR, but fit and work fine).
I got these at Advance Auto parts ~$5.00 for 4 of them. Just FYI.
Thanks! I would say it is significantly louder (guess 30%+). The great thing though is, if you take it off of Sport mode, it ounds pretty normal... But with Sport mode on...It is beastly.
Hers is supersportmtl's video of the same one. Very good example.
How do you keep the muffler valves from opening over 4000 rpm?
I do not think you can keep them from opening up normally(that I am aware of). My statement was about the normal mode at lower RPMs. It sounds just like before the Cats/Downpipes. But when you accelerate hard, the beast still comes out. I imagine there is a way to prevent it, but would require messing with the actual valves, and I am OK with it being ridiculously loud actually.
I do not think you can keep them from opening up normally(that I am aware of). My statement was about the normal mode at lower RPMs. It sounds just like before the Cats/Downpipes. But when you accelerate hard, the beast still comes out. I imagine there is a way to prevent it, but would require messing with the actual valves, and I am OK with it being ridiculously loud actually.
DC
On the V6 engines you really never let the rpm drop below 4000 until you're up to speed, so closed valves aren't ever a factor when accelerating. Hard to keep the beast quite unless the driver is set to grandma mode.
On the V6 engines you really never let the rpm drop below 4000 until you're up to speed, so closed valves aren't ever a factor when accelerating. Hard to keep the beast quite unless the driver is set to grandma mode.
Haha Yeah, I am OK with beast mode always...Though my wife fusses at me now every time I start it up.
So I got this blocking me from pulling the cats down and forward and out on the drivers side. Anyone know what this small silver hose is for and can I touch it?
looks like conduit that has to be heat shielded given proximity to the cats. Looks very unusual, like an unintegrated afterthought. Engineers would not normally locate conduit that touches the heat source either, it will conduct the heat directly. Very unusual. I definitely do not have this on my car. The plastic clip popped off the hard lines on the left however is very common. Pops in with a push and a tap. I'd remove the clamp holding it up in place so you can use whatever slack it provides, to route your cats out. Drop the cat off the manifold first then pull forward to remove from centre pipe/muffler then you can pull the cat back via that conduit.
looks like conduit that has to be heat shielded given proximity to the cats. Looks very unusual, like an unintegrated afterthought. Engineers would not normally locate conduit that touches the heat source either, it will conduct the heat directly. Very unusual. I definitely do not have this on my car. The plastic clip popped off the hard lines on the left however is very common. Pops in with a push and a tap. I'd remove the clamp holding it up in place so you can use whatever slack it provides, to route your cats out. Drop the cat off the manifold first then pull forward to remove from centre pipe/muffler then you can pull the cat back via that conduit.
It is a metal pipe. Some brace attaches to it. So it’s in place like that by itself. There really is no slack. I think I’m going to have to remove the rear exhaust.🥲
I have now an 400 cell steel cat (OEM is 400 and 600 cels each side I think) and so I should have a cooler exhaust stream.
Is it worth having the software adapted here as well? What do you think? I have the possibility to record data with a tool from VAP.
This could help so that VAP writes me a new file for my F-Type.
Thank you so much
BR
Andi
I have now an 400 cell steel cat (OEM is 400 and 600 cels each side I think) and so I should have a cooler exhaust stream.
Is it worth having the software adapted here as well? What do you think? I have the possibility to record data with a tool from VAP.
This could help so that VAP writes me a new file for my F-Type.
Thank you so much
BR
Andi
Hi Andi...
With a modest decrease in catalyst density (Like your stated 400 Cell), I would say you MAY not need to update the software. It may still be efficient enough to not create a CEL condition? If you are not getting an engine light, I would say just leave it. Just my opinion. You could also install O2 Sensor Bungs on the post Cat O2's and that may also resolve the ECU sniffing out your reduced efficiency. But also, yes, if you have the VAP monitoring tool, the readings could certainly help Chris, though I would imagine they would just use the standard coding for the 200 Cell Cats.