Well that does "occasionally" happen!

 

The sudden drop-off seen at 6400 rpm is due to the SC being overrun. With the combination of pulleys the SC is hitting 19,000rpm above its recommended limit. If had it to do over again, I would not be installing the upper pulley. Without it, the SC would be running just a hair over 18,000 rpm at redline. Besides, replacing the upper pulley is a major hassle compared with replacing the lower pulley. More pulley discussion on another thread.

 

As demonstrated on the Lobster Run?

 

 

Awesome results! Glad we could help!

Hehe..The dyno graph is deceiving. Made me think at first that torque was up and down excessively, didn't match what I was seeing on the data pic. Then I noticed the small axis increments on TQ and HP which explained it, usually there in 20-50 increments vs increments of 10, which would show a flatter torque. Whats really cool now, is you have as much boost off idle now that you did when at max rpm on the stock setup!! That's impressive!..

BTW:Was it 66F ext ambient temp on base run and 92F on this mod run?

 

Exactly. The hp/tq results are corrected to 77F per SAE standard J1349.

 

Unhingd, how are you logging boost? When I log the ECU PID for the MAP sensor, the true post supercharger pressure is not shown. I'm logging via OBD 2 using Dash Command.

 

We're logging old school...with a real pressure sensor right off the intake manifold.

 

Unhinged, could you please tell me where did you tap in off the intake manifold for boost reference. Thanks

 

Shown in this post:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post1499922

 

Thanks! Gotta find it on the v8

 

Should be in the same place.

 

Okay, following on from the work we did with Unhingd's car, we finally managed to get onto a dyno in person and spend some time working with the V6. Still somewhat compressed for time but able to get the data we needed to keep working on the non-pulley tune. Chris will be along shortly to explain some more details but the upshot is on a V6S calibration, we picked up 25WHP pretty much across the board, and substantially more at peak. Gains at 6500RPM where the OEM power curve drops off are pretty close to 50WHP. One issue that we couldn't overcome was the car auto-shifting about 400-500RPM short of redline. So based on the fact that our graph is still climbing and the OEM dropping, the power differential closer to redline is probably more like 80-90WHP.

Peak BHP OEM to peak BHP tuned shows a difference of around 30WHP, again possibly a touch more if we could get it pulled all the way to redline.

Torque gains start at 1750RPM and in the fat of the power band you're seeing 25WTQ increase.

Worth bearing in mind these are gains shown on the V6S, if you have a base V6 you have basically got another 40BHP you can access over and above what's demonstrated here.





So looks like the Net-Net for a V6 tune only, no pulley is around 410-415BHP crank, regardless of whether you're starting with 380 or 340.

 

Nice work, looking forward to Chris's Nobel prize lecture on the technicals here.

The tune for the base V6 seems like a no-brainer. Based on Unhingd's experience it seems like that 410-415bhp range is a really nice balance of performance vs long term engine stress.

 

Great work, Stuart. If I still had my base F-Type, your phone would be ringing.

 

Someone might have to interpret for me too, half the time I don't know what he is talking about either

Actually, these results even on the V6S are really great. We usually get around 25WHP out of the 4.3L or 4.3L Astons which is considered pretty good.

This will be really noticeable even a V6S. On a V6 Base it's going to feel like an engine swap!

 

Glad to see this coming around as this will easily transfer to the XE. Can you say M2 killer???

 

Odds are it's not a straight swap over in a literal sense, the OBDII protocol may be slightly different and require our hardware/firmware suppliers to update, and I would be the maps don't line up with the existing ones.

But then the existing maps don't always line up with the existing maps.

Simple answer is yes, this pretty much transfers over to any current JLR V6, the work behind the scenes shouldn't be too onerous if it needs doing.

 

*A Bird…A Plane…..wait was that ..a 3.0L Jaguar!??!! WTF!!@!?*

So the test vehicle I had locally was a 2016 XF-S (380PS) AWD. I know it took some time to get my hands on the car, BUT!..it finally happened!!
To help avoid stuff like tire loss and wheel size, I kept it simple and jumped on a dynapack for the tuning. I’ve noticed there good for back-to-back runs and most of them all have a AFR sensor (you’d be surprised how many shops with dynojets and mustangs cannot log AFR unless you bring some thing to do so..anyways that’s a whole other story).


We had 3 fans in front of the car, 2 large fans drawing air into the shop (in wall in front), and 2 fans exiting the hot air under the car located in the rear pushing the air out of the shop..to be honest, it was a very nice setup. Most places have to spend 20 minutes between runs for the catalysts to cool down, this place I stopped caring after the 2nd run, the catalyst temps never affected the AFR and I was beating run after run with 5 minutes between the different mod file (only because I had to make edits on the fly) and for a back – to – back run, we only waited for the idle to stabilize and then we ran the 2nd run for each file(so seconds after 1st run had stopped we ran the 2nd back up run). Now this was an XF so there’s a little extra breathing room under the bonnet compared to an F-Type, which could result to the extra time needed on an F-Type for cooling down. I believe the timespan between runs can be mirrored on an F-Type if correct simulated wind speeds are present. Keep in mind, if your reaching 200kph on the dyno, the air needs to be simulated at 200kph..otherwise the front charge cooler, exhaust, catalyst, engine..etc all reach extreme temps and cannot be cooled by a small paint dryer fan in the front with all the shop door closed. ..K.I.S.S 

I’ve been making small edits to this XF-S and has been street tested for a few weeks (the best to get a real-life feeling no dyno can get). Once it felt good, we started releasing this file to those of you wanting a 3.0L file. Now fast forward to the dyno day…


Setting up for measuring boost pressure, lots off ppl have mentioned to Stuart and I *“I installed a pulley but when I datalog it only shows 8-9psi absolute before and after”*. Well that’s the MAP sensor, just after the throttle and *before* the charger. That means you’re only going to see vacuum from this sensor. Atmospheric alone in my area is 14.5-14.64psi, so with a calibrated gauge you should see 17-22inhg (8-10psi) from this sensor. With an electric MAP sensor, there’s always give and calculation to error in the pcm for this sensor. If you’re seeing more than the 8-10psi off the MAP, your probably seeing the increased vacuum from the charger..but still not the compressed charged pressure which is after the throttle + after the charger. To log the Post Throttle/Post Charger, I removed the vacuum line supplying the brake booster at the back of the drivers intake manifold charge cooler and plugged with the dynopack boost sensor. This was a 3.0L, I’ve yet to get my hands on a 5.0L, but I’m sure the brake booster line should be similar located (just make sure you tap in on the port and not the hose (avoid the check valve or you will only get vacuum)


I loaded the stock file back onto the car and ran run #1 and #2, both runs varying slightly but overall the same, just a change in AFR as the pcm tries to figure out wtf is going on after a flash seconds prior. On the stock run we had a best of 311TQ@4,300RPM (instant excessive drop off till redline) and 316PS@4,300RPM(I’m using PS because that’s how Jaguar actually first rated the power of 340PS and 380PS versions..then later on changed it to HP for the North American sites). The stock boost pressure *absolute* was 187.94kpa (27.26psi), which equals out to 12.62psi corrected. An issue we had, with the brake booster line off, this didn’t allow us to select dynamic mode for long. The ecu would kick back on the TC and screw up the run, so all the runs were done in sport mode and TC off, dynamic was not used. With that said, we dyno’d in 5th gear but the ecu would force an upshift to 6th gear at 6,450rpm. That’s why if you look at the graphs, you will see max rpm is 6,450 and not near stock redline of 6,800rpm. I could of edited the file and probably figured a way to overcome this, but I wanted a mirror image to compare the mod runs and the stock runs, anything felt over 6,500rpm was just a bonus till redline.










I then ran my common safe mail order tune onto the XF-S and ran back to back runs, this mod file made 313TQ@4,450rpm and 334PS@6,450rpm ...then the damn car upshifted!!! The power crashed into the corner of the graph, I’m sure it would of pulled more power straight to the new redline of 7,000rpm.
The mail order file has some limits, to help avoid ppl from blowing the crap sky high. Being I was present and was monitoring knock with 94 octane (aki) in the tank along with a good AFR meter. I bumped timing an additional ¾ degree and did some additional changed to a few other mappings. This run posted the highest numbers of 318TQ@4,200rpm and 348PS@6,450rpm with 203kpa absolute ( 29psi), corrected is 14.8psi.. and again damn auto UPSHIFT!!
So just to be clear, this car is bone stock with JUST a tune, no pulley has been added, and boost has been raised +2psi via tune, this was also the last of the runs after several runs and back up runs. If I would of cheated and slapped on some ice bags, I’m sure the power would have been higher. Again, the power crashes into the corner of the graph with no signs of slowing down. I’m honestly certain if I raised the redline and found a way to bypass this auto upshift, the power would start to fall after 7,000rpm. But that would just be showing power present above the 6,450rpm which the stock file did not go on the dyno..aka not what I was focused on.









If you look at the graph you can see where Jaguar limits the TQ and HP, if this was a 340PS version..I’m sure the limiters would start much earlier. I focused on increasing TQ down low and then raising the HP as far to redline while still carrying TQ far as possible. Some can argue, although I believe my goal was achieved. :-)






*Just in case anyone wondered why the gains are shown in the negative(see pic above), mod was swapped with stock to show better on the white background.*

I know it took some time to get all this info dyno'd and posted, but you ladies and gents asked..We delivered!

Feel free to ask me any technical question in this thread, by email in sig or even via P.M.

 

Wow, thanks for sharing Velocity. With the tune how it keeps making power after 5900rpm is amazing. Also the additional +2psi is nice. I'm going to go ahead and get your tune and exhaust so I emailed you all this morning.