Those instructions are good. However you have a V6 so the engine will probably turn when loosening and tightening the crank pulley bolts. Make sure you have the right large socket or strap wrench to hold the crank when working on the bolts. Also cleaning the threads like Stolen did will make the reassembly work way easier. Finally compare the length of the new SC belt with the old one. The new one should be longer. Before removing the old belt note the position of the belt tensioner and make sure the new belt puts it in roughly the same place in its travel.

 

I did hear you'd stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night though?

 

Great, thank you, good tips. The pulley should come with install instructions...I would not let a so-called "professional" touch my car, an aftermarket part must come with instructions.

 

There’s really not that much to know about replacing a pulley and belt. Even the torque specs can be pulled off a generic machinist’s handbook that any Indy should have available. Being a mechanical engineer, I rely on the Marks Standard Handbook for Mechanical Engineers.

 

We have had internal discussions about some of our parts, and about installation instructions (not just this one.) There's some concern from my technical team about whether, given differing skill sets and tool/equipment access amongst customers, that we may end up encouraging people to tackle installations that they are not capable of and creating more problems. Obviously there's a sliding scale from 1-10 and we're not talking about an engine rebuild here, and many people have the ability to install themselves. It's something we are reviewing on an ongoing basis.

That said - there is a link to the DIY on the product page on our website:

 

Stuart, what happens when new-style tuned car goes to the dealership for service? Are your tunes compatible with OEM updates? It used to be the case that you recommended to flash back to OEM tune prior to service to avoid accidental bricking in case dealership is careless and attempts to apply patches to a modded car. What happens in a similar situation with this new setup?

 

By new-style I presume you mean Flexray (not hand-held compatible at this time?) We have a couple of options available to customers based on their preferences, but flashing back to stock prior to dealer visit is still one of them.

 

As a matter of fact I find that super annoying as well, which is why I've disabled it in every car I've owned except my Z06 and that's only because I haven't been able to do it.

 

Hey guys just confirming to get the 630-640 bhp, these are the items I need to order for my 2015 rwd R

crank pulley
Jaguar F-Type V6 & V8 Supercharger Crank Pulley

overdrive pulley + ecu tune
Jaguar F-Type R 5.0 Supercharger Overdrive Pulley + ECU Tune 2014-2017MY

and with the ecu tune, I get a portable device that I can flash the car with any time desired?

 

Yes, that's all correct, except you don't need to do both pulleys to get to that power level, just the crank will get you there (although, doing both is an option, you'll just be North of 650)

 

great, but the crank pulley is the harder one to install, right? How much gain is there with ecu+ overdrive pulley, is there a noticeable difference in how they behave?

 

No, the crank pulley is the easier to install, by far and makes 2lbs more boost than the upper pulley. If you're picking one, the crank pulley is the one.

 

Fantastic news, I will be picking one up near spring along with new rims and summer tires, looking forward to the extra omph I don't even know what to do with haha

 

Stuart, i thought you advised people not to do both because of heat issues, well you did me!!!!!

 

The TVS R1900 SC on the V8 can be efficiently spooled up more than the TVS R1320 on the V6, but both pulleys would still be pushing it a bit much.

 

On a stock cooling system, our crank pulley in 50F ambient temps will see 175-180F out of the compressor. The delta is roughly 50F after the intercooler, so around 130F going through intake valves. In hot climate areas of dead summer, you can imagine the high temps coming out of the blower with just a crank, now factor in an additional 1.5psi from the upper and you're not making the engine any more powerful because you'll need something crazy like 120+ AKI Octane not to pre-detonate.

The cooling system needs to be upgraded to reduce the IAT's. Fyi, just adding volume will not cool the system any faster once heat soak has been breached.

 

The TVSR1900 is rated to 18,000rpm, both our pulleys on the 5.0 will push just over at 18,193rpm at 6500redline. On the TVSR1320 is rated at 20,000rpm. We don't offer a smaller than stock upper for the 3.0, but if a 60.5 was used with our crank, at 6800redline that would be 19,820rpm. So, in theory the 5.0 is going over the max limit with both pulleys and the 3.0L is near it's limit. When I say "limit", I'm referring to max efficient compressor speed on stock cooling system.

 

Stuart, thanks for the info. 4 years ago, the Eaton specs had it the other way around. I now notice they have made their website far more user friendly and have edit the specs for each of those chargers.
Just for grins, I wonder if an aluminum billet plenum could be fabricated to adapt the TVS R1740 to fit on the V6. That should cut down on the heat soak.

 

Looking at the specs, I can see that it is kinda close, but I can see some areas of concern. The center of the compressor outlet would be 20mm to the rear of the 1320 and the back of the unit 50mm further back. That'd mean getting rid of the symposer. No tears there: I'd ditch mine in a heartbeat if it were easy since it's already defeated. That shift might mean a change in the balance of airflow to the cylinders. If a shorter snout could be fitted to keep the centerline of the compressor in same place, that might simplify things. I didn't make any measurements, but the extra 17mm height, plus any additional from an adapter plate might be troublesome.

Many years ago my business partner and I looked at fitting a supercharger to an unusual application (Saab V4) and got a damaged but rebuildable housing from the manufacturer in exchange for a refundable core and tried to see how things would line up with an engine on the stand. Not having a partially disassembled car would be an impediment to that process.

 

Well said. I hate nannies, too. It's an infuriating way to live. In America we once said live free or die but today few would agree. I miss the freedom I never knew.