When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Personally I think you should test two sets of 200 cell cats. ��
Haha... I know I've been overwhelmed by the response actually. What we will do once fitment is confirmed is do launch a group buy.
Maybe $850/set for the sport cats if we can get 10 people on board. Would be a few weeks to get flanges machined and all the parts ready to assemble but it's a good savings on a well priced part.
We should have some from an AWD R with decat soon. We discovered that the AWD has a slightly different routing on one side, so we ended up fabricating a downpipe from a couple of sections to confirm fit. The original is now being CNC'ed so it can be made in a continuous piece.
Can anyone tell me if installing these would reduce boost levels (like freer flowing headers)?
I'm looking to change the lower pulley and was wondering if these could help keep boost levels within a reasonable range.
Thanks in advance!
Yes, more free flow through the exhaust will result in lower indicated boost pressures, but more fuel charge is still getting to the cylinder, resulting in more power. Yes, a lower oversized pulley could recapture the indicated boost, but with this any changes to the system you will need to tune to make certain none of the parameters exceeding safe operating limits.
Yes, more free flow through the exhaust will result in lower indicated boost pressures, but more fuel charge is still getting to the cylinder, resulting in more power. Yes, a lower oversized pulley could recapture the indicated boost, but with this any changes to the system you will need to tune to make certain none of the parameters exceeding safe operating limits.
Ive just bit the bullet and ordered a set of these, first in the UK, lets hope they deliver the promised hp gains after a new map.
I'm sure they will, Stu seems a very knowledgable guy and answered all my questions very promptly.
Now have to wait a few weeks
Stuart, do you have any thoughts as to the potential to squeeze in long tube headers? I'm really looking to squeeze out some additional torque. Low end improvements would be especially welcome. If you need a tester, you've got my email.....
Stuart, do you have any thoughts as to the potential to squeeze in long tube headers? I'm really looking to squeeze out some additional torque. Low end improvements would be especially welcome. If you need a tester, you've got my email.....
Our second lift just got installed today (first one is tied up with the Vantage Twin Turbo Project.) I have an SLS AMG Black Series and a 2015 F-Type R we're scheduling for lift 2, some time in the next 3-4 weeks.
Headers and downpipe for both. We will design the V6 headers at the same time. I haven't stuck my head in there far enough to be 100% certain, but I have one of the most talented fabricators I've ever seen heading up our team on the shop floor so I'm sure we can figure out a configuration that will work, even if space is tight.
Heat is another consideration so we might have to look at ceramic coating too.
Heat is another consideration so we might have to look at ceramic coating too.
For the LT headers, don't mess around with ceramic. Just give us a high quality stainless. I don't want to have to replace these in 10 or 20 years, (I personally don't care if it blue burns, but some might). No carbon steel , please!
We only use 304 grade stainless or higher. Ceramic coating may be necessary for a couple of reasons, if space is tight and we have to run primaries closer to components to equalize lengths, and also because stainless will radiate heat more than a factory cast manifold. If it's possible not to, we won't but if safety requires it, ceramicist the way forward.
We only use 304 grade stainless or higher. Ceramic coating may be necessary for a couple of reasons, if space is tight and we have to run primaries closer to components to equalize lengths, and also because stainless will radiate heat more than a factory cast manifold. If it's possible not to, we won't but if safety requires it, ceramicist the way forward.
Ceramic is fine with me! I prefer to keep the head where it belongs. Melted harnesses can really ruin your day. Hot gasses not cooling in the headers at that point could help EG velocity anyway right?
The o2 bung seems pretty far downstream from the cat itself so I think you'd avoid a cel using a right angle fouler on the bung
There are two downstream O2 sensors after the cat. And in any case you don't want to be trying to trick the sensors, they are also used for fuelling.
Originally Posted by domino_z
My concern though would be clearing the cel if/when it trips. Is there any known procedure to reset the Ecu on this car without using a scantool
You need a scan tool to clear codes. Bit if you're getting a code for cat efficiency, it'll keep coming back no matter how often you clear it. Fixing it in the tune &/or changing the emissions settings is the way to go.