So bear with me while I tell this tale of what not to do, so others can learn from my very costly mistake and share all the gratitude for those who deserve it, as I now embark on a very "fun" (not) and costly mistake.

I went to install my upper pulley (5.0L, V8) so I could upgrade to Stage 3 tune (Velocity AP's newer style Griptec, 2 piece upper pulley). Seemed like an easy enough task, pulled the old pulley off without much issue, set the center hub on the 1000w hot plate to heat up for an hour, slide the center hub on, slightly tap into place and reassemble and install ECU file. WELL....

While installing the center hub onto the shaft, holding it with my set of pliers to not burn my hand in the process, as I went to remove the pliers from the hub, it ever so slightly shifted the hub forward causing it to not sit flush with the end of the shaft. Took my pliers to push it back into place and it had already cooled enough that it would not move back. You only get ONE SHOT at getting it in the right place as I have learned, so when in my haste and panic to get it pushed into place, I took a mallet to tap it back into place and instead, as it now had cooled and shrunk to fit, I pushed the entire shaft of the SC into the housing about 2mm. More than enough to now cause a much bigger headache. (Biggest lesson learned, if this happens to you, do not try to tap into place).

I was able to install the outer ring of the pulley and use the pulley tool to remove the center hub, however you cannot reheat the hub again and reinstall, even if the shaft had not been pushed in. So, I was left with a snout that cannot be reassembled, a non-usable center hub and a headache in front of me.

I reached out the team at Velocity AP, who have been great. Chris explained that the end of the shaft needs to be 24.75mm from the front bearing to the end and the bearing itself needs to be about 2mm inset from the cast of the snout. I was about 2.5mm inward with the bearing (so it moved too) and only around 22mm from the end, so a total of about 3.25mm too far inset. No way to really install the pulley or have confidence in belt alignment, so onto the next steps as they say.

What are those next steps you ask, well I am looking at a few options at the moment:

Option 1.) Order C2D52713 - JLR full snout assembly/repair kit (~$800, it used to be around $400 before COVID) and replace the damaged one without needing a rebuild.

Option 2.) I spoke with the folks over at SCOL (Superchargers Online) in California and for $350 they will rebuild my current snout. New bearings, solid coupler, install the VAP pulley, however by the time I add up cost to ship from Florida and back again, I am close to the price of just ordering the part from JLR and just doing the pulley myself. (Well granted the cost of the solid coupler too, so maybe slightly more).

Option 3.) I came across this company out of Missouri: Jaguar 5.0L F type R XFR TVS 1.9L 1900 supercharger - Supercharger Rebuilds at The High Speed Lab Supercharger Shop Not sure if anyone has familiarity with them, but seems like a very costly option, yet wonder what the overall benefits would be in comparison to just getting things back to stock.

Option 4.) Find a junkyard/used one somewhere (which is not as easy as you would think). My car is a Mid Year 2016. At some point in the manufacturing process of this year is when they started moving to a thicker coupler, while my VIN tells me it should have the newer (so thicker) coupler option, based on the rebuild kit of C2D52713, the only way to know ahead of time (from what I have researched) is to pull the snout first.

With all that said, here are a few helpful tips for anyone who finds themselves in the same situation (hopefully not).

- ZPE/Griptec, the actual maker of the Velocity AP pulley can sell you just the center hub by itself. $100 option, Part No. AU1864SR0K. It shares the same center hub that is used by some Audi's. Much cheaper option than replacing the entire upper pulley if the outer ring is not damaged. Home (zpegriptec.com)

- Velocity AP is a great company and is working with me to provide any technical assistance they can. Stuart has been great as well offering a small discount of the complete replacement of the upper pulley if I decided to go that route and for those that don't know, they also offer a discount for forum members on everyday purchases, "JAGFORUMS" is the coupon code to save 10% off year-round.

- Nergal Lazer with SCOL, is an awesome guy, patient and understanding. Their team out of CA seems super legit and my understanding is they are all ex-Magnuson SC employees, so they know Eaton SC really well.

- While some use MAPP gas torches to heat up the center pulley, the recommended way to do so is with a 1000w hot plate for about 45-60mm until it turns a dark golden brown, the install fail is more my fault for knocking it out of place than anything else, but this method ensures even heat distribution.

- Other parts you will need (mine is a 5.0L) so the 3.0 guys parts will be different include (or recommended if you are going this far: Intake manifold lower gasket set, sold individually Left and Right. In my case AJ811576 and AJ811590. Most likely need to order the coolant overflow tube/hose as it is normally pretty brittle, better to have on hand and not need it then the reverse: T2R5910, Throttle Body Gasket: C2Z28265, (2x) ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-4041 Synthetic Supercharger Oil - 4 oz OR you could also purchase SCOL version of the oil here: Eaton / SCOL Synthetic Supercharger Oil 8 OZ - Superchargers Online, The upper intake manifold gasket is metal and should be able to be reused, but if you need to replace that it is about $100, Solid Coupler (varies by application), I am assuming I am most likely going to need the one pictured below, but still working to confirm.

- While you are in there, might as well as replace the plastic Y-pipe coolant pieces with the aluminum ones, so those are on order. Also, seeing as you will be this far into the process, either removing entirely or capping off the synposer is a likely also going to be done.

- Other things you may need. 50mm x M8 x 1.25 headless bolts to use as guide pins when reinstalling the intake/SC unit, gasket maker, razer blades to clean old gasket maker off between snout and SC housing, scotchbrite pads to clean up further, some carb/choke/brake cleaner to clean up any other residue you may want to have, fine grit (800+) sand paper to clean the dowels on the bottom of the SC housing to make for easier reinstallation (and future removal if needed) along with some copper anti-seize as well. Having a small 100ML syringe on hand with guide tube will help with the SC oil refill too.

I am sure I am missing other stuff, as I have not yet started all the work and there are several threads out there that walk you through the process, but this is my story of woe and what lies ahead.

Here are some other items that may prove helpful. See attached.

 

Thank you very much for this detailed information. Thanks, this will save you a lot of trouble. After the change from stage 2 to 3 is pending for me, the following questions:
How long did you leave the center piece of the new pulley on the hotplate? 60 minutes?

How far does the piece have to be pushed onto the shaft? So far that it's flush with the shaft at the front? I heard you should put the part on as far as it will go so that the
belt runs straight. Does it mean that it is flush up to the stop, or even further back? Not that in the end the part touches the housing and other problems arise!

THX
Andi

 

This is what it SHOULD look like when installed properly. It should sit flush to the end of the snout shaft. The center hub piece (in the middle) was there until it slid out of place, so I was SO close to not having an issue, slight jiggle of the hand and here we are. You just need to as you place the center hub on with one hand, have something flat/heat resistant to push it into place all in one quick step. @Life And Projects By Austin YOUTUBE just posted a video of his install. As for the hot plate, yes, that is their recommendation and about 45 minutes to an hour is enough. It needs to get to 800 degrees to be considered hot enough.

 

thanks for sharing your experience. while I will probably not be doing this...I found the info on the parts needed to be helpful since I'll need to do the coolant pipes some time. good luck finishing and putting it all together...I'm sure it will all be worth it in the end.

 

is the OEM pulley also flush with the shaft? If so, then the geometry should be identical, and the first groove of the surface should be the same distance from the end of the shaft to the first groove as the VAP part, right?
I am so grateful to you for letting us know about this. THANKS

 

Yes OEM sits flush to end of shaft.

 

How did you get the OEM pulley off?

 

sorry, I seen the video now, perfect, I know how its work...

 

With this

 

I appreciate the cautionary tale. I could completely see myself doing this.

 

Wich belt Do you use with Stage 3? 1483mm?
THX
Andi

 

link?

 

The 1470 one that came with my lower pulley will still work with the upper. My tensioner is about maxed out anyway, so this will help it relax some.

 

I bought used from another forum member who recently sold he Jag. I think new they are around $80. Search for Audi or Mini Cooper Supercharger pulley removal tool, any of those will work.

 

As I am looking to do the upper/lower VAP pulley & tune this is super helpful information, thank you for sharing.

 

So the fun begins......

 

Good luck... This is my work next year in winter...

 

So the plan now is to do the following, seeing I'll be in here for a while:
- Once everything is removed/disassembled, I'll be sending the snout over to SCOL to have them rebuild it. They will be fixing the shaft, all new bearings, solid coupler and installing the Velocity Pulley on for me as well. $350. Much cheaper than a new unit and will have the solid coupler too.
- While the car is not driving, I will be replacing all the spark plugs, drain/fil SC oil, install aluminum coolant pipes, delete the symposer.

Ideally it would be nice to have the LR backing plate they make, but seems only a UK part # and for $50, I could just as easily cut the attachment, fill with silicone and call it a day.

Outside of that, I already keep the engine bay so clean to begin with, so some tidying up, but I think that is all for this round.

 

Getting there. Upper Coolant pipe removed and throttle body loose, supercharger bolts removed. Just need my crow bar in the morning and should hopefully have this out of the car.

 

What a job.

a couple of additional tips

Don't try to lift out by yourself. You can obviously do it but would be much easier with help as you need to unclip the throttle body hose that runs underneath the entire thing which was a pain.

I hate the symposer. Like it’s such a cluster to take off and it’s just in the way. I will not be reinstalling this.

if changing the coolant pipes like I am. Be prepared to make a small mess.