Another quick update. Thanks to @Terrance39 for confirming what an option 5 might be, plan right now is to take apart the snout and see if I can't tap the shaft back into position. I know the measurements, so if I can, would save me downtime and a full snout rebuild. Worst case, I still have to send off. I can do the solid coupler myself at that point, once I measure the one I have. Will update when time permits for me to take things apart.

 

Success! My coupler is 49.08 diameter and 25.30 width

Got the shaft put back into place too @Terrance39 ! Good stuff. Saved $500

 

Success!

Now waiting on throttle body gaskets and intake manifold gaskets to ship and my solid coupler. Then to put it all back together and pray for no coolant leaks or other issues.

 

Cool, good Job... Looks nice :-) I wish you all the best for the next steps.

 

As far as deleting the Symposer, I read that it will throw a fault code if it’s not installed. I took the small solenoid off the symposer, capped the vacuum lines and plugged it back in so the ECU thinks it’s still there.

 

Great tip. I knew it threw a code (but no CEL) but think I may do something similar if I just don’t put the entire thing in.

 

Next tip for those reading. Regarding the solid coupler as there is a LOT of information around this. There are essentially two different solid couplers for the 5.0L engine. Some of them from earlier models and other from later models. Later models use the same ones found in the V6 3.0L SC. It is a 49.08mm diameter / 25.3mm width. Earlier model snouts came with a slightly small coupler.

If for some reason you were looking to replace the entire snout:C2D52713 - Snout Assembly - larger coupler
C2D55131 - Snout Assembly - small coupler

Essentially you would need the entire new snout as well, as I am to understand the pins the coupler sit on are also slightly thinner.

As for which coupler to get. There are only 2 I would recommend. One is directly from Eaton, part number is EAT-361506, however at close to $70+ I found another option from ZZP (Terrance used this one too) that is the right size and a 1/3 of the price with a lifetime warranty. Looks solid and honestly, not that the price matters, but ZZP's customer service has been excellent, so what I went with.

Also as far as gasket RTV to use. There is a wide range of recommendations, however I have found that Loctitie SI 598 BK is the best bet and what I will be using to seal up the snout once my coupler comes in.

 

Stupid question. After I have to dismantle it to replace the plastic pipes below the compressor. what steps would you take on the compressor for safety reasons. I would have changed the oil when it was removed, makes more sense, even if the compressor still looks good after 55,000km?

 

If you are referring to the supercharger, then yes, I went ahead and did a fluid flush and refill, even with only 33k miles. For $10 worth of fluids, seems pretty silly not to.

 

Nothing Else?Yes, only at the SC...

 

if changing coolant pipes could refresh coolant too but nothing else really to maintain fluid wise.

 

Well the time has come to make the decision about the stupid symposer and here is what I have come up with. As much as I want to just be done with this stupid thing, I am going to keep it when I reinstall. For a few reasons.

One, as I am going to reinstall everything, I went ahead and removed the throttle body from the car (detached the rear coolant line) and with everything minus the upper SC cooler reinstalled, I can literally just place the entire unit back into the car as one piece. All the mounting brackets will be installed and seeing as I refreshed the SC oil while I was in there, I don't suspect I will need to do that in the near future and most likely will not have the car by the time it is due again.

To avoid any stored codes, ensure everything can be neatly placed back into their factory locations, this makes the most sense to me. I think the symposer is stupid, but would rather know when the time does come to sell the car, it is complete. I also think it will make reinstallation of everything easier as I should only need to connect the two electrical connectors, coolant line and the actual vent tube back to the symposer once it is installed. With the V8, there is much less room then the V6 to mess around with back there.

Also, a tip I learned from another forum post. When I am going to reinstall the snout back to the SC and reinstall the SC back to the block, use some copper anti-seize on the alignment dowels to hopefully make life easier should you ever need to get this thing back apart again.

 

Ok, well car is finally back together! I know there are a lot of people who have tackled this job to change out coolant pipes or whatever other reason, but I pray to never need to do this again for the foreseeable future. I decided to put the stupid symposer back in, but honestly, if I ever pulled this thing out again, I wouldn't. It takes up so much space and makes it that much harder to slide the entire unit back into position when attached ahead of time, but sure beats trying to reinstall it after the SC is back in the car.

So far, so good. No leaks from aluminum coolant pipes or the brass elbow. I will check again tomorrow now that I have a full heat cycle on the engine to allow things to expand and contract. The pulley seems to be great and aligned, no belt noises or grinding of any sort. The valves looks pretty damn clean at 33k miles on the car. Only the front drivers side bank had any real build up, but I do run CRC cleaner every oil change. I went ahead and sprayed then all down with some valve cleaner while it was open and could directly spray onto them, let it soak for a while as I was putting everything back together again.

The hardest parts of reassembly are plugging in the stupid electrical connectors to the symposer, reinstalling the plastic cover for the wire harness that runs behind the engine and reinstalling those stupid plastic covers that go over the coil packs.

Final thoughts, on my inaugural run, butt dyno says the car is faster than before. True test will be 1/4 mile times and dyno, scheduled for next month.

Completed as part of this project, so if I can be of help, let me know:
- Replaced upper and lower plastic coolant pipes with aluminum
- New spark plugs
- Upper Pulley replaced
- Coolant Flush and Refill
- Solid Supercharger Coupler

Things broken/damaged:
- One unidentified clip (see thread here: Need help identifying part/part number - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum )
- Scratched cowl cover (will replace eventually)
- Coolant overflow/expansion line (replaced with new)
- Water Pump coolant overflow line inlet (replaced with brass piece that came with aluminum pipes)

NO left over bolts and only one plastic retaining clip that I have no idea where it went, but whatever LOL

 

Did you use their tool to install it? https://www.velocityap.com/product/i...-upper-pulley/

Also how are the 1/4 mile times? You might need a TCU tune to get the most out of it,

 

I did not use their tool (didn't even know they had that) although a pair of channel locks worked just fine with a heat glove on. As for the 1/4 mile times. My best time with the TCU tune (already had this since stage 2) was 10.98 at 131mph. I have not had a chance to do any logging runs and send that back to Chris since stage 3, but I have a rally event coming up that I may have some time to pull some logs to send in. Car is a rocket ship though.

 

Congrats and be careful, don't want to hear about an f-type landing on the moon.