I changed my oil for the first time a few weeks ago and replaced the filter with an OEM filter. Are the bulk of you sticking with OEM filters? I see the Mann and Mahle are not much less than the OEM filter. On some previous cars I was a fan of the Wix filters but since the Jaguar seems to be somewhat finicky on what is the general consensus for the oil filter?

 

While under warranty, I will use nothing but the Jaguar OEM part # C2D3670. The one I just bought was around $31. Even though free oil & filter changes are provided under the warranty I don't really want to run the suggested 16,000 miles or 1 year between changes so I plan on doing my own in between the free changes with a Mityvac.

Finding the correct Castrol Edge Professional 0W-20W oil was a bit of a challenge. No one sells it online and half the dealers I called don't stock it except in bulk for oil changes by their service departments. I finally found some at a dealer who was close to where I had some business in a city 100 miles away so I picked up 8 quarts while there which is enough for a change plus some extra if needed for any top off.

 

I’ve used these oil change kits with Mahle filters and Castrol Edge Pro oil a few times, no issues.
https://www.roverparts.com/search/Ock/

 

At my first oil change, I bought both Mann and ACDelco filters off RockAuto.

I compared both (posted pictures here, somewhere) and the pleats and construction were virtually identical. BOTH were made in Mexico.

The price comparison was $30.79 USD (Mann) to $8.31 (Delco). I have used Delco subsequently.

 

FCP Euro for a oil change kit:

JCP Euro

$112 for oil, filter, & plug.

 

As others have said...Mahle/Mann are great products (or at least produce a lot of OEM...They are what I use on the Porsches too and make their OEMs).

I am definitely going to check out the A/C Delco too! (Thanks Carbuff2) Especially as often as I change the oil To date, I have also been getting the FCP Euro Liqui Moly/ Mahle kits.

Also installed a different plug last time, that I can just connect/screw on a different cap with a hose, and drains out nice and tidy!

DC

 

I know of FCP Euro and think I mentioned that when I joined here. I had a BMW but never took them up on the oil exchange. I will compare the kit to ala cart since I wouldn't need the plug. Has anyone from the west coast shipped their oil back to FCP for an exchange yet? I would think as much as Postal has gone up we would only save maybe $20 for shipping it back and then the hassle makes it a wash for me IF that is the case.

 

Fumoto valve? Had those installed on all my prior cars. Since the Jag can be extracted from the top I won't use one on this car.

 

Similar to that valve, but not exact. I use them on my Porsches, BMW's, and waiting on one for my Raptor too( they have a sucky plug set up, destined to leak). I know many use the extractor, and I am sure they are fine...I still just like to watch it all drain out from the bottom! And these things make it clean and simple also.
DC

 

Just used MANN......habit from prior cars (used MANN air filters too). I want the best filter. It may be the same as the ac delco of course....so the above is helpful and thank you - but I am looking for the "best" oil filter possible as this car is a keeper in my mind. So if there is a "best by far" one out there, please post it up. My plan is to change every 5000 miles so it probably doesn't matter too much as they are all likely good for that in the ac delco or better category.

Is there a "best" one out there that is known? I am into overkill on stuff related to oil(s).

 

I always use and OEM filter and Castrol OE Professional 5w-20. My dealer charges $27.36 for the filter and $10.75/qt for the oil. Since I only drive ~4000k miles a year and only change the oil and filter once a year cost is not a consideration. Plus my dealer is only 5 miles away.

 

I've used MANN filters on my BMW's. Never an issue. I use genuine Toyota on my Tundra and Venza and genuine Honda on my Accord, according to a tech friend those 2 brands have a check valve that the aftermarket filters don't. I never verified this.
I'll be using (paying for) Jaguar filters and oil starting tomorrow (Monday) at Jaguar of Bedford. The car was "serviced" by Carmax in October but I want to start a care plan with dealer servicing in order to satisfy any warranty (Maxcare) issues that may surface.

 

I use whichever top quality filter is going cheapest at Rock Auto.
So Mann, Mahle or Wix most of the time but occasionally AC Delco which are very cheap and once or twice OEM JLR when they were going cheap.
I did a lot of research into this a few years ago and came to the conclusion that the "best" oil filter is Wix (57279).
There is a YouTube vid around somewhere of a comparison test and Napa Gold (memory?) and Wix were the joint winners and it was confirmed they are the exact same filter just different labels.

 

Thank you! Will get a Wix one next!

 

I was a bit surprised to see that the Jaguar OEM filter part # C2D3670 said Made In China on the box. While I don't like it, my experience in working for Tesla and in the automotive industry is that there are factories in China that will manufacture to whatever quality and specifications that you provide as long as you are willing to pay for it. And there are factories there and in other countries that will build to a price point too.

I am cautious about using non-OEM filters these days. For example, my Mazda CX 5 will also accept a Mobil 1 filter and a Fram Ultra filter, both very well regarded and good enough to only change at every other oil change, provided you run 5000k OCI's anyway. I would love to run them in my Mazda. However, just because the thread size and capacity are the same as the Mazda OEM filter, they don't have the same specs for the anti drainback valve. So I stick with the OEM filter only.

The Mahle is probably good, and Wix generally makes high quality products but I sure would be skeptical of the AC Delco. Again, there may be a lot of cars that use the same size cartridge as the JLR V8, but do they all have the same specifications as JLR ? I don't know that we can easily determine that. Proceed with caution.

 

How does a check valve help when the filter on many cars, including my Toyotas, are at or near the bottom of the engine. I can see it on a filter mounted above, but..

 

I use this kit from FCP Euro, with the Mahle filter and LiqiMoly oil:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...hle-lm20410kt2

 

NAPA Gold is the same as WIX. I also try to use only WIX.
.
.
.

 

This is where I get a bit confused as well. As in the example of my Mazda that I posted above, the oil filter sits horizontally near the bottom of the engine just above the pan. Most manufacturers make a filter of the right capacity, physical dimensions and thread size but it is hard to determine anything about their ADB valves of if they even have one. And maybe the list of vehicles that filter fits includes 4, 6 and 8 cylinder cars with horizontal and vertical filters that may be on the top or bottom of the engine ?

It could very well be that the size and type of cannister filter that is used on the JLR V8 is only used on other manufacturer's cars that have top mounted vertical filters so they all have an ADB valve. I suppose an inquiry to each may get some details, or dissecting a sample of each would show the differences. People have done that with conventional filters and compared the type of filter material, number of pleats, the size, measured in microns of contaminants that will be trapped, how well the whole thing is constructed and so on and the differences between a top quality filter like a Mobil 1 and a $3 standard Fram are pretty apparent. Maybe that AC Delco would show the cost cutting. Or maybe show how the others are overpriced ?

In any case the difference in cost between a low priced filter and an OEM filter that will probably only be changed once a year is about the same as a fast food lunch these days so I don't mind using the OEM filter on my $100k Jaguar.

 

Be aware that Jaguar's 5.0L V-8 uses an old time cartridge filter mounted vertically on top of the engine. These old style cartridge filters have no anti-drain back valves. The valves are built into the engine.

So when changing oil on a 5.0L V-8 be SURE there is oil puddled in the bottom of the casting where the filter screws into. These valves have failed and several people have changed them but it was difficult to find the correct part number.

I don't know but suspect that other engines with similar setups would also have the drain back valves mounted in the engine itself.
.
.
.