Whine from the differential, shavings in the oil
#1
Whine from the differential, shavings in the oil
The whine from the differential was getting worse, very noticeable on acceleration or deceleration, so did a quick oil change to see what's going on:
https://imgur.com/a/81kcArh
Plenty of fluid came out. Looks like it had been changed recently. About 53k miles on the car, no clue if the diff is original or not. I just bought her used, so no warranty. I am planning on continuing to drive it until the whine gets so bad I'm ready to fork over the cost of a new differential. Good idea or bad idea?
https://imgur.com/a/81kcArh
Plenty of fluid came out. Looks like it had been changed recently. About 53k miles on the car, no clue if the diff is original or not. I just bought her used, so no warranty. I am planning on continuing to drive it until the whine gets so bad I'm ready to fork over the cost of a new differential. Good idea or bad idea?
#2
#3
The whine from the differential was getting worse, very noticeable on acceleration or deceleration, so did a quick oil change to see what's going on:
https://imgur.com/a/81kcArh
Plenty of fluid came out. Looks like it had been changed recently. About 53k miles on the car, no clue if the diff is original or not. I just bought her used, so no warranty. I am planning on continuing to drive it until the whine gets so bad I'm ready to fork over the cost of a new differential. Good idea or bad idea?
https://imgur.com/a/81kcArh
Plenty of fluid came out. Looks like it had been changed recently. About 53k miles on the car, no clue if the diff is original or not. I just bought her used, so no warranty. I am planning on continuing to drive it until the whine gets so bad I'm ready to fork over the cost of a new differential. Good idea or bad idea?
#4
If the fluid was changed previously, do you have any receipts or documentation to show which fluid was used?
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
#5
#6
Jaguar e-diff takes special fluid - Castrol BOT 720. See here for more details: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-225273/
However, now that metal shavings came out, you at the very least need to flush it (e.g. do oil change few times or hook it to a machine to cycle oil) and put correct fluid to have a chance of it lasting.
#7
If the fluid was changed previously, do you have any receipts or documentation to show which fluid was used?
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
It is likely failed as a result of incorrect fluid.
Jaguar e-diff takes special fluid - Castrol BOT 720. See here for more details: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-225273/
However, now that metal shavings came out, you at the very least need to flush it (e.g. do oil change few times or hook it to a machine to cycle oil) and put correct fluid to have a chance of it lasting.
Jaguar e-diff takes special fluid - Castrol BOT 720. See here for more details: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-225273/
However, now that metal shavings came out, you at the very least need to flush it (e.g. do oil change few times or hook it to a machine to cycle oil) and put correct fluid to have a chance of it lasting.
So Motul Gear 300 LS is not the right fluid?
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#8
#9
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Paul_59 (09-15-2020)
#10
Since this is "mechanic in a bottle" attempt to make already-broken differential last a bit longer, I would attempt anti-wear additives such as ZDDP. It is used in metal-on-metal applications, I suspect some of it is going on inside your differential and this is why you are seeing metal in the oil. I am not sure if it will negatively impact e-clutch operation but it will protect gears.
#11
#12
If the fluid was changed previously, do you have any receipts or documentation to show which fluid was used?
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
E-Diff needs a different fluid to the standard differentials. I know of three cars around here with E-Diffs where the wrong fluid was put in, two cases from independent garages, one case the dealer did it.
They used "genuine" fluid, but the wrong one...
E-Diff requires Castrol BOT-720, Jaguar p/n C2D3650 (this is also used in the V6S mechanical LSD)
Standard diff requires Castrol BOT-750B, Jaguar p/n C2D3653, replaced by C2P25272
If you put the BOT-750B in an E-Diff, it will be destroyed very quickly...
Did they use the correct fluid?
#13
Was the correct fluid. Do a search for that part number its for Castrol BOT 720. This is for use in F-Type with E- Diff and LSD.
#14
I might do it myself next time
#15
Picture shows castrol packaging.
Amazon shows it packaged in Landrover packaging.
These guys don't make it easy to service your own car, when they can't or won't make it clear which correct fluids to use.
By the way I only use the fluids recommended by the manufacturer as there is a reason they recommend these.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR019727
Last edited by 2004XJ8; 09-18-2020 at 06:03 AM.
#16
After my diff started whining, I drive it for months until it annoyed me enough to change it lol. When I first drained my original diff, only like half a quart of fluid came out. There was no wet spots anywhere for the diff to leak, so i still have no idea where the rest of the fluid went. That's probably why it overheated in the first place. Found a used diff from a 2016 on ebay. I replaced it, and refilled with redline 75-140 recommended by redline to help with better cooling. Been running it for over a year now and I beat on my car every chance I get, and she is fine. I also have another used diff sitting in my garage just in case lol. But nothing has alarmed me that it is going out.
#17
After my diff started whining, I drive it for months until it annoyed me enough to change it lol. When I first drained my original diff, only like half a quart of fluid came out. There was no wet spots anywhere for the diff to leak, so i still have no idea where the rest of the fluid went. That's probably why it overheated in the first place. Found a used diff from a 2016 on ebay. I replaced it, and refilled with redline 75-140 recommended by redline to help with better cooling. Been running it for over a year now and I beat on my car every chance I get, and she is fine. I also have another used diff sitting in my garage just in case lol. But nothing has alarmed me that it is going out.
#18
No I didn't have the time to do it myself. I was on the toad traveling. So I let a friend of mines that has a shop do the work. If I was home I would have did it myself though. From what he said it was a pain in the *** because he had to lower the rear subframe etc.
#19
I changed the rear diff fluid in my 2014 XJR @42K miles.
Here is the thread with pictures. I used Redline 75W90 #57904.
XJR Rear Diff Fluid Change
Be sure and note the part number as Red Line has several very similar products.
But #57904 does meet the Castrol SAF Carbon mod.
Redline 75W90 Fluid Specs
.
.
.
Here is the thread with pictures. I used Redline 75W90 #57904.
XJR Rear Diff Fluid Change
Be sure and note the part number as Red Line has several very similar products.
But #57904 does meet the Castrol SAF Carbon mod.
Redline 75W90 Fluid Specs
.
.
.
#20
Traveling by toad must be quite an experience.