I used to track my 2014 V8-S occasionally when the race car was out of commission & I was still teaching classroom & needed a track toy for the weekend. I've had the Jag at Carolina Motorsports Park a handful of times & once at NCCAR (North Carolina Center for Automotive Research).

I used RaceChrono to check my lap times.

Set-Up was completely stock.

I didn't push to 10/10s but was more like 8/10s bc I didn't want to risk hurting her -- but I did obtain track day insurance for each event.

The Jag was a boatload of fun on the track because steering was almost completely done with the right foot. Want instant oversteer & rotation -- sure, just mash the throttle! Want the front end to bite a little harder to rotate -- sure, just let off the throttle. Point the nose 2-3 feet to the inside of the apex & roll-on the throttle before apex & you can induce a nice slip angle to hit the apex & get the car pointed down the track on corner exit.

 

My other fun car (getting fixed after bending valves on the race track is a Factory Five Cobra - 2200# and 375 ft. lbs. of torque). With the factory springs, Bilstein shocks and tire pressures optimized, it's exactly as you describe - what a hoot. Driver protection, however is limited.
When I first was looking at buying the F type, I was thinking of a '15 then read the myriad of posts regarding the tail end happiness. I opted to go with AWD and am glad since due to the cost, I don't want to challenge my skills too much. When I registered for Daytona, I had bought insurance for that day (at the local track no worries). Even with the AWD, the car is a joy regarding the weight transfer and throttle response for balance.

 

I've tracked my '17 SVR multiple times. It's a run car with the power, but certainly not the best platform given the weight.

Home track is COTA (Circuit of the Americas), and I have an AIM SOLO 2 DL + SMARTYCAM.

I run Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, OEM rotors, Porterfield R-4 race pads (only thing that's lasted a full weekend on the car so far) with Motul 660 brake fluid.

I'll typically start the day at 31 PSI all around and then adjust the hot temps down into the 35 - 36 range. I ended up this past weekend running 28 cold on the fronts and 29 cold on the backs.

Be very careful with putting your car in park or turning off the engine without running through the automatic brake disabling.

Also, if you plug anything into the OBD2 port be careful of the phantom battery drain. I bought a JLR reader to be able to clear the faults after unplugging the AIM system.

 

Do you not have the dreaded "Low Battery" problem after plugging the Kiwi into the OBD port? That's the one thing I really dislike on my 2017.

 

I have a 2017 F Type R Coupe. I try to make it to at least 6 track days a year. (But not this year). I expect to run through a set of brakes (pads and rotors) and tires every year.

I run completely stock. I've been very happy with the stock pads/rotors. I go to Thunderhill because it's the closest track and even in summer at 104 degrees, the car as been great.

My only real complaint is that I can't find and OBD device that doesn't cause the "low battery" problem.

 

I have the iCarsoft LR V2.0 and have never had the battery drain problem with it yet. I think there's a couple other guys on here with it as well.