Winterizing
#21
10-28-2021, 05:36 PM
When I bought my 2021 in January, I failed to think about the annual (free) service..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
#22
10-28-2021, 07:41 PM
Originally Posted by CJSJAG
When I bought my 2021 in January, I failed to think about the annual (free) service..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
#23
10-28-2021, 08:41 PM
His question was " this will be my first winter with my F-Type so I'm wondering what precautions I need to take getting her ready for winter." The OP talking about a car cover and living in PA, (and I live in PA ,as well), the roads and weather can trash a car driving it in January and February. Sounds to me like he wants to keep this little beauty as nice as possible and that's difficult in our area in the winter months. I have had PPF and Ceramic Coated professionally installed on several cars and that road debris can still damage a car, especially a low slung sports car with wide tires.
#24
10-28-2021, 08:49 PM
Sta-Bil absolutely!
I pretty much follow the comments made here, but I do have my own way of doing this "winter hibernation" trick and have never experienced a problem in 25 years. All of these hibernated cars (toys) have been of the high horsepower variety. My garages over the years have been attached to my various homes, never been heated and never a stand alone building....inside temperature never goes below 40 F. I mention that because the super cold weather (0 F or lower) in some locations, could cause me to change what I've been doing.
1) battery tender...and don't start the car unless you have a very good reason (like the garage is on fire). It's hard on the engine to start a car and not run it around to get the whole powertrain warmed up to full operating temperature. Your car will be just fine sitting there, snuggled up in it's cover.
2) full tank of gas and no stabilizer...at least in the USA, fresh fuel is good in your tank for 6 months, easy. The condensation issue is somewhat of a mute point, fuel tanks these days are of a composite or plastic construction. If you want to use stabilizer, go ahead....I've just never found it to be necessary in a garage kept car.
3) Boost air pressure in tires, at least 10 lb. over. I put my car tires on carpet remnants just because of concrete floors and an idiosyncrasy I have...steel belted tires are tough to form a flat spot and if they would, are completely gone within a 5 mile trip.
4) Put small wooden or rubber blocks under the wiper blade arms to get the rubber blades off the windshield...prevents them from getting curled up from sitting so long.
5) Place a couple of tins of rat/mouse poison under the car...one under the engine and one under the rear diff area. I've never had a problem with these critters, but friends of mine have and they love eating wires...can cost you very big bucks to fix and no insurance coverage.
6) Nice car cover works out well...throw a fresh dryer sheet in on the seat, helps stop any mustiness.
7) Depending on the miles that you have on the engine oil, you might want to change it depending on how long you intend to keep the car parked....anything under 2500-3000 miles it wouldn't be necessary unless you go over the one year oil change requirement should your car still be in the factory warranty. If you are in a timing bind on that issue, talk with your dealer and see what he might do for you.
8) Pray for an early Spring....no toy for that long stinks!
Good luck!
1) battery tender...and don't start the car unless you have a very good reason (like the garage is on fire). It's hard on the engine to start a car and not run it around to get the whole powertrain warmed up to full operating temperature. Your car will be just fine sitting there, snuggled up in it's cover.
2) full tank of gas and no stabilizer...at least in the USA, fresh fuel is good in your tank for 6 months, easy. The condensation issue is somewhat of a mute point, fuel tanks these days are of a composite or plastic construction. If you want to use stabilizer, go ahead....I've just never found it to be necessary in a garage kept car.
3) Boost air pressure in tires, at least 10 lb. over. I put my car tires on carpet remnants just because of concrete floors and an idiosyncrasy I have...steel belted tires are tough to form a flat spot and if they would, are completely gone within a 5 mile trip.
4) Put small wooden or rubber blocks under the wiper blade arms to get the rubber blades off the windshield...prevents them from getting curled up from sitting so long.
5) Place a couple of tins of rat/mouse poison under the car...one under the engine and one under the rear diff area. I've never had a problem with these critters, but friends of mine have and they love eating wires...can cost you very big bucks to fix and no insurance coverage.
6) Nice car cover works out well...throw a fresh dryer sheet in on the seat, helps stop any mustiness.
7) Depending on the miles that you have on the engine oil, you might want to change it depending on how long you intend to keep the car parked....anything under 2500-3000 miles it wouldn't be necessary unless you go over the one year oil change requirement should your car still be in the factory warranty. If you are in a timing bind on that issue, talk with your dealer and see what he might do for you.
8) Pray for an early Spring....no toy for that long stinks!
Good luck!
Use a fuel stabilizer. Last year I didn’t put it in my motorcycles during the summer (in Las Vegas it’s the opposite, too hot to ride so I put them away until fall). And I had a lot of problems with messed up carbs and plugged fuel injectors. This year I put Sta-Bil in both of them and had no problems. Ethanol fuel sucks. Unless you can fill your tank completely with gas that doesn’t have ethanol, you need to add fuel stabilization. Even if it just sits for two weeks.
#26
10-28-2021, 11:42 PM
Veteran Member
#27
10-29-2021, 08:41 AM
#28
10-29-2021, 11:19 AM
I am also getting my ready for winter storage; I inflates the tire to MAX pressure of 44 PSI to alleviate flat spots, fill the gas tank, use fuel stabilizer and simply disconnect the negative from the battery. Of course, I close the trunk's latch so it does not lock it and of course, the car cover on top of it even if is parked in a heated garage. I have been doing this to all my summer toys over the last 13 years and never had an issue.
The following users liked this post:
Brian A. (10-29-2021)
#29
10-29-2021, 05:31 PM
Now Jay, it's not that I am arguing your point, but we are not talking about the guy with a 1969 Corvette who bought it new in 1969 and now has 4000 miles on it, because it has become a museum piece and sits in his garage, months and even years at a time, without it being driven. We are simply talking about hibernating a car for 4 or 5 months a year and driving it the other 7-8 months of that year. I don't disagree that if a car is stored for several years at a time that it can suffer dry rot or other aging type damage from extended outages, but that was not the question being asked by the OP.
His question was " this will be my first winter with my F-Type so I'm wondering what precautions I need to take getting her ready for winter." The OP talking about a car cover and living in PA, (and I live in PA ,as well), the roads and weather can trash a car driving it in January and February. Sounds to me like he wants to keep this little beauty as nice as possible and that's difficult in our area in the winter months. I have had PPF and Ceramic Coated professionally installed on several cars and that road debris can still damage a car, especially a low slung sports car with wide tires.
His question was " this will be my first winter with my F-Type so I'm wondering what precautions I need to take getting her ready for winter." The OP talking about a car cover and living in PA, (and I live in PA ,as well), the roads and weather can trash a car driving it in January and February. Sounds to me like he wants to keep this little beauty as nice as possible and that's difficult in our area in the winter months. I have had PPF and Ceramic Coated professionally installed on several cars and that road debris can still damage a car, especially a low slung sports car with wide tires.
Not talking about a 50 year old car. Talking about 5 year old cars. Its also not as bad if its really driven all the time the other 7/8 months of the year. I'm also not saying its a guaranteed problem, its all percentages and effected by exactly how/where you store it. But if you deal with lots of people that have cars that don't get driven often (exotics, etc) you do see a pattern.
There's also the basic fact of why you would want to not drive the car for months at a time. Nice sunny January day, a couple of weeks since the last snow, is a really good time for a drive.
#30
10-29-2021, 07:49 PM
The following users liked this post:
Spyderturbo007 (11-02-2021)
#31
10-29-2021, 08:38 PM
Winterizing
If you go to Minneapolis/St. Paul in the summer you will see a lot of pristine ‘50-‘60-‘70’s cars driving around. That’s because people put them away in the winter and have a beater car, with snow tires and rust that they drive in the winter. The summers there are pretty short
#32
10-29-2021, 10:58 PM
Yes sir, winter roads in Western, PA are atrocious. It’s a hilly area, not quite mountainous but hilly with winning roads. They use a combination of coal reject materials, salt and crushed stones and call that mess “anti skid”. It does work even with ice on the roads, but tears the **** out of you paint. I’ve even had one year old cars get a hole blown into the wheel well liners after one season. Usually in late April they send the street sweepers out to brush and vacuum that crap up off the roads. Driving an F type with wide tires kicks up that crap and shot peens the whole sides of the sports car types. Yeah sure, go ahead and drive your $100K+ Jag in that crap and see how she looks after one season. I refuse to as do most of the car heads in this region.
The following users liked this post:
Spyderturbo007 (11-02-2021)
#33
10-30-2021, 06:40 AM
Senior Member
I'll wash the car, hook up the battery tender, put some dryer sheets under the hood and under the car, then put the Coverking cover on it. The car probably won't get parked for winter until late November or early December, then with the usual weather pattern that occurs here we will get a thaw with a good rinsing rain to clean the salt off the roads some time in late January, and it's then I'll get the itch to take the car out for a leisurely drive as the temps will probably still be below 50*F.
#34
10-30-2021, 07:31 AM
Senior Member
When I bought my 2021 in January, I failed to think about the annual (free) service..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
So now to make the warranty is maintained, I need to get the car serviced between January 2 and February 28 each year.
Worst possible weather here in Massachusetts, except for the horrendous 90mph storm that just tore up trees and took down power everywhere around here yesterday.
The other challenge apart from the weather is that my local dealer (40 miles away) has a 3 month waiting list, so miss an appointment in early January because of weather, and I am screwed!!
So, the Mich. all-seasons get fitted next week and I am arranging 3 appointments at 3 different dealers. It may mean driving 60 miles instead of 40 miles but at least then I have a back-up plan.
I know we all love our cars and the F-Type with its low ground clearace is doubtless a challenge in ice and snow, but there are many other ( even more) expensive cars that get driven year round ( even those fancy $140K 8 cylinder Range Rovers!!).
I plan to use my car through the Winter but try not to subject it to ice and snow.
I have even identified a near-by DIY wam water car wash so that I can keep it reasonable clean without putting ice all over my driveway..
#35
10-30-2021, 08:20 AM
Veteran Member
The following 4 users liked this post by RickyJay52:
#36
10-30-2021, 08:54 AM
Get yourself out the winter service trick bag and have the car serviced next week, with that you wil reset the required service clock.
not sure JLR will allow you to do this if the servicing is under the free servicing annually under the new car warranty period. I know with several American cars I’ve bought, the dealers adhere to the “12 months or X number of miles” for the free service shown in the Warranty Service Manual.
not sure JLR will allow you to do this if the servicing is under the free servicing annually under the new car warranty period. I know with several American cars I’ve bought, the dealers adhere to the “12 months or X number of miles” for the free service shown in the Warranty Service Manual.
#37
11-01-2021, 07:52 PM
Senior Member
Get yourself out the winter service trick bag and have the car serviced next week, with that you wil reset the required service clock.
not sure JLR will allow you to do this if the servicing is under the free servicing annually under the new car warranty period. I know with several American cars I’ve bought, the dealers adhere to the “12 months or X number of miles” for the free service shown in the Warranty Service Manual.
not sure JLR will allow you to do this if the servicing is under the free servicing annually under the new car warranty period. I know with several American cars I’ve bought, the dealers adhere to the “12 months or X number of miles” for the free service shown in the Warranty Service Manual.
#39
11-02-2021, 06:41 AM
Veteran Member
#40
11-02-2021, 07:02 AM