I wish to spray the internal parts of the sills and box sections of my X308. I have been looking at the air compressors on eBay and was wondering if a 24 litre compressor with an output of 7.3 cfm is suitable to power the sealey waxing gun?

Warrior 24 Litre Air Compressor 7.3CFM 2HP 240v Electric 8Bar 116PSI 24L 24Ltr | eBay

Sealey Air 1/4" BSP UnderBody/Underseal Waxoyl Injector Canister Spray Gun SG19 | eBay

Should I go for the 50 litre tank compressor or will the 24 litre be big enough?

Thank you for your opinions.

 

There is no substitute for capacity!

The Sealey website gives the pressure and consumption for their SG19:



You could be struggling with the 24 litre.

Graham

 

Thank you Triple G. That sways it. I shouldn't need to give long blasts with the gun. Just short blasts. Anyway, 50 litres it is. I'll report back in a week or two and let you know how I get on.

Thanks again.

 

Wessex, something else I would take into account is the duty cycle rating of the compressor that you are looking at buying. Not all compressors are rated to run 100% of the time. A lot of the smaller ones are only rated to run say 50% of the time. So, out of every 5 minutes, the compressor should only run 2.5 minutes. To run it more than that can cause the compressor to get too hot and damage the internals (the specific compressor should say something to the effect of 50% duty cycle, IE 5 minutes run max for every 10 minutes).

Just something to keep in mind. With something like a spray gun, the compressor can run for longer periods of time as compared to say an impact wrench or other tool.

 

Hi Thermo, thanks for the advice. I have purchased a DIY type compressor and it says only use for 10 hours in any 24 hours so reckon about 50% duty cycle.

I don't expect that it will be used flat out. I bought it primarily to wax inject the box sections and light spraying. The wings I intend to apply underbody seal with added waxoyl. Other than that, using it to make sure the tyres on my three cars are set correctly once a week.

Once again, all noted. Thanks.

 

Have a look at 3M Body Schutz for under the wings:

3M Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black 08864

Graham

 

The weather here in the UK has been ridiculously warm for the time of the year and so the Saturday before Christmas I set my stall out to waxoyl the box sections and sills. Sumo 50 litre compressor and Sealy SG16 gun with extended flexible wand.

Jacked the side of the car up and supported front & back on axle stands. Looking underneath the underside was clean without any sign of the undersea pealing. Heated the waxoyl in a pan of water and when fluid started to spray the box sections. Rear wheels were removed and I could see seams through the suspension that had traces of surface rust appearing. Only feint traces but put the solid nozzle on the gun and blasted the area with waxoyl. Then out came the paint brushes and painted the inner wheel arch with Waxoyl underseal. Repeated the treatment on the other side.

No adverse affects to the compressor and as it was running outside there didn't appear to be any overheating problems.

Now, my problem came to spraying the internals of the sills. The drain holes are quite narrow. Too narrow to allow the flexible wand to enter. So how have others waxed the innards of the sills?

One solution would be to drill a couple of small holes to allow the wand to be pushed through to spray the innards and then seal with a grommet and underseal. Any thoughts?

The sills are solid as is the rest of the underside of the car.

 

In the 1970's when Jaguars dissolved in the rain and UK dealers were keen on selling 'Dinitrol Anti Corrosion' treatment for new cars, they used to drill 1/4 inch holes in the end plates of the sill box sections for sprayer access and then seal them with rubber plugs afterwards.

It didn't stop my 1972 XJ6 rusting by 1975 but build quality was much improved by the time your X308 came off the line.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham. I was thinking of drilling from underneath. Didn't fancy relying on a rubber bung to stop the spray from the wheels entering the cavity. Also, my flexible wand is only about 18 inches long so a couple of holes underneath should do the job.

Without sending a camera in there I don't know what it's like so it's rather a more belt and braces exercise to help slow the inevitable rusting process in the future.

 

It's rare to see corrosion on the sills of an X300 or X308 other than at the leading edge where the tyres kick back road dirt/gravel which destroys the surface paint protection.

I'd be tempted to leave the sill box sections alone unless there's any evidence of the bottom or inner surfaces rusting from the inside. You could create more problems than you solve.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham. I hope this isn't a case of Damned if you do Damned if you don't.

I have had the front sills done recently. He did say there was nothing to worry about. The drain or breather vents are very small so unless the sills submerge for any length of time then there shouldn't be a great ingress of water just damp.

I was thinking of getting some micro tubing, super gluing the end and then drilling through at 90 degrees to form 4 right angle outlets.