AJV8 4.2 SC lean codes
#21
#22
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I had a s type r doing the same thing after i had replaced the engine. ( at a dealer under warranty)
Run the engine, using short term fuelling live data and spray carb cleaner around the engine and you might see the trims change as it draws the extra fuel in. It might only happen on a really hot or cold engine due the the plastics and metals expanding and contracting.
My fault was the top seal from charger to inlet. You couldn't hear the leak but it was drawing in the carb cleaner and richened up the mixture, seen on short term fuelling.
Run the engine, using short term fuelling live data and spray carb cleaner around the engine and you might see the trims change as it draws the extra fuel in. It might only happen on a really hot or cold engine due the the plastics and metals expanding and contracting.
My fault was the top seal from charger to inlet. You couldn't hear the leak but it was drawing in the carb cleaner and richened up the mixture, seen on short term fuelling.
#23
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well basically all dismantled to the sexy sexy core. supercharger is off(got snout rebuilt and 10% pulley), intake manifolds all off, injectors off. some of the gaskets were in a right state. so basically fresh everything, from injectors getting full clean, to fresh gaskets all round. am tempted to do knock sensor/map while am here because i dont wanna have to dig in again
#24
#25
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bit of an update on this, turns out when the throttle body was reinstalled the gasket wasnt fitted properly so it bent, when the throttle plate opened it hit the gasket and am guessing freaked the computer out.
a fresh gasket sorted the issue but the car is torn down again as am chasing the air leak, my passenger valve cover gasket is leaking.
a fresh gasket sorted the issue but the car is torn down again as am chasing the air leak, my passenger valve cover gasket is leaking.
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#30
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Your best bet would be STFTs but use something that burns easily and is gaseous. Even then you need the leak present (check trims) (e.g. some leaks only occur when moving or when ... well, you get the idea) and to get a bit lucky, plus on many cars some leaks are not where you can easily spray (e.g. EVAP canister piping).
#31
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Your best bet would be STFTs but use something that burns easily and is gaseous. Even then you need the leak present (check trims) (e.g. some leaks only occur when moving or when ... well, you get the idea) and to get a bit lucky, plus on many cars some leaks are not where you can easily spray (e.g. EVAP canister piping).
#32
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#34
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no. I always felt i had a minute vac leak because of my stft on both banks but never set a code. When i took the lines off they came off way to easy and i found both sealing o rings hard as a rack. New o rings fixed my fuel trims so i figured that is what is was
#35
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also to test it, can i just unplug it and block off the hole? if its the cause of the leak it should report rich fuel trims right?
Last edited by mgrover_sc; 02-15-2021 at 01:15 PM.
#36
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well...i would think blocking the evap inlet would eliminate any possible vac leak there and cause the trims to lean out...the norma connecter should take a little push to seat and lock tightly...aarcuda mentioned changing every suspect o ring for sure and I agree....otherwise it is hit and miss...i do not know the layout of the rover vac hoses, so I cannot tell you much more than trust the short trims
#37
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well...i would think blocking the evap inlet would eliminate any possible vac leak there and cause the trims to lean out...the norma connecter should take a little push to seat and lock tightly...aarcuda mentioned changing every suspect o ring for sure and I agree....otherwise it is hit and miss...i do not know the layout of the rover vac hoses, so I cannot tell you much more than trust the short trims
#38
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