The Best Automotive Battery
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I know this is going to sound funny, go with with the cheapest. I would say to go with either the Walmart brand battery or the Advance Auto Silver battery of the appropriate style.
Keep in mind that for example, Walmart batteries, Advance Auto batteries, Exide batteries, and many other brands are all built on the same assembly line and the only difference between them is the sticker that is put on the outside. What normally separates the batteries after that is the warrantee that comes with the battery. Seeing that you live in a warmer climate, if you find yourself going through batteries say ever 2 years, then spending a little more on a battery that has say a 3 year 100% replacement may be the cheaper option. Where, if you find yourself able to go 5-7 years on a battery, getting the cheapo battery will be best.
Please, Please, Please do not think that something like a deep cycle battery or a marine battery is going to be better than a conventional starting battery. They have different names for a reason, they perform different functions. Both a deep cycle and marine battery are meant to be discharge deeply periodically (ideally atleast once a month, if not more often). When I say deeply discharge, I am talking to the point that you might be able to get the starter solenoid to click (nothing more). Obviously this is an issue with our cars as how do you get it started in that condition without jump starting it. Even then, you run the risk of damaging the alternator because you are placing a very large load on the alternator with a low system voltage, leading to overheating of the field winding and/or the rectifying diodes. Either way, you are looking at an expensive repair to put a new alternator in your vehicle.
On a side note, if you have any questions with your F-150, let me know. I have an Expedition and we share a lot of similar problems. I know a few things about them too.
Keep in mind that for example, Walmart batteries, Advance Auto batteries, Exide batteries, and many other brands are all built on the same assembly line and the only difference between them is the sticker that is put on the outside. What normally separates the batteries after that is the warrantee that comes with the battery. Seeing that you live in a warmer climate, if you find yourself going through batteries say ever 2 years, then spending a little more on a battery that has say a 3 year 100% replacement may be the cheaper option. Where, if you find yourself able to go 5-7 years on a battery, getting the cheapo battery will be best.
Please, Please, Please do not think that something like a deep cycle battery or a marine battery is going to be better than a conventional starting battery. They have different names for a reason, they perform different functions. Both a deep cycle and marine battery are meant to be discharge deeply periodically (ideally atleast once a month, if not more often). When I say deeply discharge, I am talking to the point that you might be able to get the starter solenoid to click (nothing more). Obviously this is an issue with our cars as how do you get it started in that condition without jump starting it. Even then, you run the risk of damaging the alternator because you are placing a very large load on the alternator with a low system voltage, leading to overheating of the field winding and/or the rectifying diodes. Either way, you are looking at an expensive repair to put a new alternator in your vehicle.
On a side note, if you have any questions with your F-150, let me know. I have an Expedition and we share a lot of similar problems. I know a few things about them too.
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Stillwaters (01-31-2012)
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Still, what I think you are meaning to say is whether shops have the equipment to prevent loosing the information that is inside of the ECU and other automotive computers. When you "flash" an ECU, you are updating the information/program that the ECU uses as a basis for how the engine should run. Over time, the computer will adapt and try to provide the best fuel trim for how you drive. Unfortunately, none of us drive the same way 100% of the time. So, it comes to a "happy medium". Not great for anything. By letting the battery be disconnected, all this learned information is removed and the computer has to start over again. In a lot of cases, you can pick up a little bit in mileage.
Some shops now have gone to a system where they have a little "motorcycle" battery that they put in parallel to your car battery to maintain this stored information. NOrmally people only care about this stored information because of the stations stored in their radios. The actual ECU information they probably don't even realize is gone.
Some shops now have gone to a system where they have a little "motorcycle" battery that they put in parallel to your car battery to maintain this stored information. NOrmally people only care about this stored information because of the stations stored in their radios. The actual ECU information they probably don't even realize is gone.
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Stillwaters (02-01-2012)
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Stillwaters (02-05-2012)
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Stillwaters (02-05-2012)
#11
Completely agree with Thermo. There are, I think, 2 (possibly 3) manufacturers of batteries here in the US. All batteries on the market come from them and through the same assembly lines. The only difference is the stickers. Personally I've always bought the cheapest battery in the size I need from an Autozone type store and have never had an issue.
#12
My Jaguar is still running on the original one so might need to change it out soon, but I have always used Interstate and Diehard (Sears) batteries on my BMW's and Volvo's.
I did try a Sam's Club brand once on my Toyota Sienna and it wasn't that great per say but wasn't that bad either. It had a 3 year warranty so they switched it out for a new one at no charge.
I would go with Interstate or Diehard...but if a cheaper battery gives a 3 year warranty go for it in my opinion.
I did try a Sam's Club brand once on my Toyota Sienna and it wasn't that great per say but wasn't that bad either. It had a 3 year warranty so they switched it out for a new one at no charge.
I would go with Interstate or Diehard...but if a cheaper battery gives a 3 year warranty go for it in my opinion.
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I personally really like the Optima Yellow/red top batteries as well as the Odyssey batteries. But in all honesty, if your alternator is running fine and you don't have much of a electrical draw above stock (i.e. aftermarket stereo), then most decent batteries from Walmart/autozone should be sufficient.